6' Tiller

   / 6' Tiller #41  
Most definitely has live power. That clutch is disengaged/engaged hundreds of times in a day of baling. Is there a reason you see that it couldn't be used to "adjust" ground speed in certain spots while tilling?
Have you ever had a 6' tiller in the ground and pushed the clutch in, especially in tough ground!

It's really not "normal" live power, it's transmission driven but disengages one axle and half of the rearend keeps spinning.

SR
 
   / 6' Tiller #42  
There's one additional thing he didn't take into consideration. I said max speed in first gear was 2.4 mph. He said range of recommended working speed was 1-1.5 mph. The main working range of the WD45 was about middle of the quadrant, which would put 1st gear running speed at that range as approximately 1.2 mph, essentially in the middle of the working range he stated.
Yep. I run my Ford at just above half throttle when tilling.
 
   / 6' Tiller #43  
Have you ever had a 6' tiller in the ground and pushed the clutch in, especially in tough ground!

It's really not "normal" live power, it's transmission driven but disengages one axle and half of the rearend keeps spinning.

SR
Okay?
 
   / 6' Tiller #44  
I'm curious if anyone out there can point me in the direction of a good 3 point tiller that can handle red clay and go a good 8" deep

Thank you

The only rototillers that can go to 8" or deeper are the largest and heaviest ones made, which weigh around a ton, are 8-10' wide, and usually cost in excess of $10,000 new. They are very uncommon to find used. A 6' King Kutter or similar rototillers that only cost a few grand new only till about 4-5" deep at most. A Deere 5400 or 5420 is also going to be about 6 1/2' wide with its tires set in at their narrowest setting and a 6' tiller won't cover the tracks. It's not something somebody can't work around but one really should be looking at least at a 7' unit behind that size of tractor.

I'd recommend a plow with 16" or wider bottoms if you want to turn over soil 8" deep as your plowing depth is half of your bottom width. Plow up the soil, let it sit for at least a month, and then disc it or run a rototiller over it.

You don't need a creeper to run a rototiller, just keep the speed in that 1-1 1/2 MPH range and they work well. Most newer tractors can run at least that slowly and still turn full PTO RPM with a regular transmission. The 5400 and 5420 run between 0.7 and 1.4 MPH at full PTO RPM in first gear without a creeper depending on the tire size, transmission, and whether or not the 5420 has a 540E PTO (the 5x00 series don't have EPTO.) 5 PTO HP/foot is a pretty good estimate of how much power a typical rototiller takes. It doesn't even take 15 PTO HP/foot of working width to break new ground with most plows, and plowing is a lot harder than running a rototiller.
 
   / 6' Tiller #45  
The only rototillers that can go to 8" or deeper are the largest and heaviest ones made, which weigh around a ton, are 8-10' wide, and usually cost in excess of $10,000 new. They are very uncommon to find used. A 6' King Kutter or similar rototillers that only cost a few grand new only till about 4-5" deep at most. A Deere 5400 or 5420 is also going to be about 6 1/2' wide with its tires set in at their narrowest setting and a 6' tiller won't cover the tracks. It's not something somebody can't work around but one really should be looking at least at a 7' unit behind that size of tractor.

I'd recommend a plow with 16" or wider bottoms if you want to turn over soil 8" deep as your plowing depth is half of your bottom width. Plow up the soil, let it sit for at least a month, and then disc it or run a rototiller over it.

You don't need a creeper to run a rototiller, just keep the speed in that 1-1 1/2 MPH range and they work well. Most newer tractors can run at least that slowly and still turn full PTO RPM with a regular transmission. The 5400 and 5420 run between 0.7 and 1.4 MPH at full PTO RPM in first gear without a creeper depending on the tire size, transmission, and whether or not the 5420 has a 540E PTO (the 5x00 series don't have EPTO.) 5 PTO HP/foot is a pretty good estimate of how much power a typical rototiller takes. It doesn't even take 15 PTO HP/foot of working width to break new ground with most plows, and plowing is a lot harder than running a rototiller.
Good thoughts. I would like suggest a 9 shank all purpose plow that will rip over a foot in depth, instead of a moldboard plow. If will break up the soil deeper. Then till with a rototiller about 5” depth. That’s what works for me.
 
   / 6' Tiller #46  
To get that 8" depth, with my 6' KK, I run the second pass, sinking the runners the additional 4". This helps bury any top debris and brings up that lower mixture.
 
   / 6' Tiller #47  
The only rototillers that can go to 8" or deeper are the largest and heaviest ones made, which weigh around a ton, are 8-10' wide, and usually cost in excess of $10,000 new. They are very uncommon to find used. A 6' King Kutter or similar rototillers that only cost a few grand new only till about 4-5" deep at most. A Deere 5400 or 5420 is also going to be about 6 1/2' wide with its tires set in at their narrowest setting and a 6' tiller won't cover the tracks. It's not something somebody can't work around but one really should be looking at least at a 7' unit behind that size of tractor.
HUH? All of my Howards will go 8" deep and none of them cost even 10K new nor does any of them weigh close to a ton!

It takes more than 60hp to run a 7' tiller "properly" in all soil conditions.

You are wrong on all accounts.

SR
 
 
 
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