Quick Hitches 6-way Deluxe Rear Scrape Blade from EA

[Threepoint]

MAD777, congratulations on the new tractor and new rear blade! Here are my thoughts on your intended use on that driveway. The offset feature is very nice. I agree with the comments about needing a place to put the snow with it, but if I understand your point about the embankment, you intend to push it to the downhill side with the offset, thus moving it well off the driveway. That should work, as long as you stay ahead of the build-up by plowing frequently, and so long as the trees that I see in you pic are set back enough to allow it.

I notice that your tires on the CK are R4s. Great for many things, but you may find that you'll need chains for enough traction on that driveway, and to help counter the "side slip" of your rear end caused by the rotational force from that 84" blade when used in offset position. I'd for sure try not to let the snow get any deeper than 8" between plow sessions, and plan on plowing downhill. I think you'll have so much fun that you won't mind frequent passes. :laughing: But is your driveway really a 20 percent grade in places? That's a 1:5 rise! You'll go nowhere plowing 8" on that grade with your CK and that blade if not pointed downhill. :no: But downhill should be doable if you take it a little at a time. Biggest risk I see is that you slide sideways, get stuck, then don't have enough traction to back up, uphill.

Here are some data points for comparison. I use a 550 lb. Woods HBL84-2 rear blade with hydraulic offset behind my NX4510HST Cab, and the large-lugged Titan turf tires without chains. I plow about a mile of access road and driveway, with maybe 5 percent grade in spots. Even with the bigger frame and heavier blade, 8-10"of heavy snow can slide my rear sideways if I use too much offset. That's a lot of snow at once for my area, nothing compared to what you have in NH!

 

[MAD777]

I have added OFA-8 CHAINS on the loaded rear tires. Having plowed a few times now with 2" of snow build-up, it is working like a charm. Even in the 100' section that is 20% (1:5 slope), going both up and downhill.
Most likely, if I let it build up 6" or more, then I would be limited to downhill runs. Fortunately, downhill is going away from my the garage for that first pass.
BTW, I'm loving the OFA-8 chains!

 

[ArlyA]

Nice looking blade, like something we'd get. Thanks for posting pictures of it and reports of its use.

 

[npalen]

The EA blade shown is a little different in that it is not curved but rather a pair of bends. Does it still "roll" the snow okay?

 

[fried1765]

Im in NY state and Id be interested in the blade that you'd like to sell

Private message sent.

 

[CobyRupert]

I have an 7' or 8' rear blade I use to move some snow.
Before buying, I went through expense of adding a 2nd rear hydraulic SCV so that I could have hydraulic angle and tilt features, (in addition to manual offset). This is good when making ditches in dirt, but...

I promptly learned that it's best just to leave "tilt" in float (remove rear pin in your case) , so that the blade naturally follows contours independent of how tractor is tilting/dipping ahead of blade. Results may vary.

One of these winters I'll remove the tilt cylinder and replace it with an offset hyd. cylinder.

 

[npalen]

I have an 7' or 8' rear blade I use to move some snow.
Before buying, I went through expense of adding a 2nd rear hydraulic SCV so that I could have hydraulic angle and tilt features, (in addition to manual offset). This is good when making ditches in dirt, but...

I promptly learned that it's best just to leave "tilt" in float (remove rear pin in your case) , so that the blade naturally follows contours independent of how tractor is tilting/dipping ahead of blade. Results may vary.

One of these winters I'll remove the tilt cylinder and replace it with an offset hyd. cylinder.

With regard to leaving the "tilt" in float, wouldn't you accomplish the same thing by lowering the position control all the way down and letting the entire 3PH float? Just curious.

 

[CobyRupert]

With regard to leaving the "tilt" in float, wouldn't you accomplish the same thing by lowering the position control all the way down and letting the entire 3PH float? Just curious.

I think the lift arms would float up and down, but not independently of each other to provide tilt (side to side) of the blade independent of the tractor. Floating 3ph would just change the angle of attack of the blade.

I was talking about a situation where you (say) head diagonally up or down a slope, or over changing contours. Normally, tilting the tractor means that one side of the blade still back on flat ground (or vise-versa) would raise according to the slope under the tractor, not the slope still under the blade, and not be in contact with the ground over it's full length, leaving snow.

 

[npalen]

Okay, I see what you're saying. I was thinking you wanted to leave the "top" in float but you said leave the "tilt" in float.