60" Grapple Build

   / 60" Grapple Build #11  
The long bottom tines can short one is really, in my opinion, the ability to “rake” debris going forward and backwards. Mine are very short and when angled properly, I can drop it on the ground and push a pile without it digging into the ground yet not ride over anything else. Alternatively, I can angle it downward to rip out roots and small trees. It can pick up a mouthful of debris as well. I rake it forward, reach over to the far end and use the upper jaw to grab the back end of the pile, move back a bit, then bite down. Sorta like eating a thick former burger that’s bigger than your mouth.

When unloading, long bottom tubes would force me to rotate the grapple practically all the way and it would be a problem when dumping at a height over the sides of my dump trailer. The short tine arrangement also allows me to “cherry pick” certain logs from a pile as an added benefit.

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   / 60" Grapple Build
  • Thread Starter
#12  
The long bottom tines can short one is really, in my opinion, the ability to “rake” debris going forward and backwards. Mine are very short and when angled properly, I can drop it on the ground and push a pile without it digging into the ground yet not ride over anything else. Alternatively, I can angle it downward to rip out roots and small trees. It can pick up a mouthful of debris as well. I rake it forward, reach over to the far end and use the upper jaw to grab the back end of the pile, move back a bit, then bite down. Sorta like eating a thick former burger that’s bigger than your mouth.

When unloading, long bottom tubes would force me to rotate the grapple practically all the way and it would be a problem when dumping at a height over the sides of my dump trailer. The short tine arrangement also allows me to “cherry pick” certain logs from a pile as an added benefit.

View attachment 744702
The primary purpose for my grapple build is loading and unloading logs from my gooseneck bunk racks. I don't do much brush handling/raking, but I can absolutely see why a shorter lower tine would be advantageous for that. I do the job now with pallet forks, but I want to be able to grab handfuls of logs more securely and safely.
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   / 60" Grapple Build #13  
...I do the job now with pallet forks, but I want to be able to grab handfuls of logs more securely and safely.
Why don't you add a lid / Thumb to your forks? Bolt them on to the fork frame if you want or need to remove them for other projects. Seems to be way easier than building the whole unit.
 

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   / 60" Grapple Build
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Why don't you add a lid / Thumb to your forks? Bolt them on to the fork frame if you want or need to remove them for other projects. Seems to be way easier than building the whole unit.
I considered adding a removable thumb to my pallet forks, but I use them to load / unload Freight semis at the road 2-3 times a week for my business. In real world daily practice, there is no way I would take the thumb on and off. It will be much faster to pop 2 latches for the quick connects and switch between the forks and the grapple when needed.
 
   / 60" Grapple Build #15  
Looks good. Just curious if the 1.5" cylinders are on par with similar manufactures grapples?
 
   / 60" Grapple Build
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Looks good. Just curious if the 1.5" cylinders are on par with similar manufactures grapples?
I'm honestly not sure what size other companies are using. Running the hydraulic math, each 1.5" cylinder will provide 3900 lb of force at 2200 PSI. A 2" cylinder would give 6900 lb of force. I feel like a pair of those is significant overkill and a legitimate risk of bending parts if you're not careful. At the end of the day, my goal is simply to hold logs on the lower tines from falling out while carrying them.
 
   / 60" Grapple Build #17  
But you have leverage working against that force. What's the distance from the lid pivot to the cylinder lin and from lid pivot to tines?
 
   / 60" Grapple Build
  • Thread Starter
#18  

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