6013 vs 7014 vs 7018

[bindian]

Wow, that seems pretty low tech for a couple of birds that can fall out of the sky, but I believe you.

We however, had zero percent success in forming 7075/T6 Aluminum cold and in it's normal state.

And it was not worth the labor cost to try to annealed the material then heat treat it again after forming.

Yes, and forming materials "over two curved wooden blocks" brings back memory's of some weird forming dies for our presses made from varies materials other then steel...

KC

Low tech is what you use when there are no repair parts. You wouldn't believe how we used to repair helicopter blades.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Oldpath05]

I have 3 gas/welding supply businesses about 65 miles away.

If I can remember correctly you would have to be careful about your bottle purchase because they would only exchange certain specific manufactured bottles?

KC

65 mi one way, wow thats quite the journey just for welding supply's.

I dont about that. My weld supplier guy just brings a bottle when I call, usually the next day or even in the afternoon if I call in the morning, weekdays only, Also if I need welding rods he also brings them, its an auto parts business to so if I need a car part he can bring that........

 

[Oldpath05]

I have a Dial Arc. At max amps it really needs a 100A circuit hooked to 240V. 480 volts it is half that. On a 50Amp circuit I can get 180-200 Amps w/o tripping the breaker. They are a real power hog. The rectifier throws off a lot of heat energy. I will, up for sale soon as It is too much for what I do now. My little Monkey Ward 230 Amp AC/DC machine does everything I need running on a 50 Amp Circuit.

Back to the OPs original; I have not followed the full, thread. Was there ever much consensus? Like was said early on, it is an individual preference. I worked the pipe trade in my early life. The 7018 came about because ASME and AWS set up standard weld procedures which called out 7018 for the passes after the root which was always 6010. I did a lot of work where we used 6010 all they way. 6010 strength matches A36 pipe strength so some of us saw no reason to use 7018 unless specified. 7018 became popular with pipe welders that like down-hand welding which came from the pipeline part of the trade and it caught on for industrial work also. Down-hand welders swear it runs easier that any of the non-hydrogen coatings. I was always an up-hand guy so I saw no difference. There are upwards of 8-9 low-hy rods. Some have special applications. Lincolns Arc Welding Manual has a good dialog on lo-hy. We never used any 60k rods other than 6010 except when a smooth cap was desired then used 6013 or 6014. Fleetweld 5P (6010) was the go to product.

Ron

My old Miller Dialarc can also be hooked to 480v but I have set for 240v input. 6011 and 6010 can go both directions but 7018 has to go vertical up.

 

[Oldpath05]

My wood stove grate in the house fell apart this afternoon so I took the one out of the stove in the garage, both stoves are the same, then added a middle brace on then put that one in the house stove, should get me by til the one I ordered shows up. Seem like every two years I have to get a stove grate, maybe 1" thick square stock would last longer.


Then the one that was in the house stove I bubble gummed it back together, the middle like the one in the garage welds terrible but the outer part welds ok for cast iron, I used some scrap steel with 10018 rods, then stuck it in the garage stove. I need to get some cast iron rods but last time I bought nickel rods they was like $2.00/rod

 

[MF RED in MT]

KC, it worked real good! Only when I was welding close to the floor was when my shop got a bit smoky. I was just too far away from the vent hood at that point. I'm thinking to switch the semi-rigid duct to a flexible duct, which would allow me to easily adjust the height at which the vent hood hangs. Also, when not using it, I would be able to just hang the hood up on a hook on the ceiling w/o having to unbolt anything. Right now, I got to remove the entire semi-rigid duct when not using it, and I damage it a little every time I do it.

I filmed some vids of me welding that snowplow under the extractor, but I'm too busy now with work (finally...this 'rona stuff wrecked work for a while) to put them together and edit them so it can be something interesting to watch.

Hey Gene,

Thanks for the update on your welding exhaust system.

I'm sure you will make the necessary adjustments when you have the time to make it better for you.

KC

 

[MF RED in MT]

65 mi one way, wow thats quite the journey just for welding supply's.

I dont about that. My weld supplier guy just brings a bottle when I call, usually the next day or even in the afternoon if I call in the morning, weekdays only, Also if I need welding rods he also brings them, its an auto parts business to so if I need a car part he can bring that........

Yes, but very seldom do we drive the distance for 1 item, usually combine trips with doctors appointments, groceries (curbside pickup at Walmart), etc...

Sometimes we switch things up if we do not have doctors appointments and travel 100 miles north to another Walmart.

We have a Napa in town, about 7 miles away that you can order an item and that they do not have it in stock, they order it and it's usually their the next day by noontime.

KC

 

[MF RED in MT]

Low tech is what you use when there are no repair parts. You wouldn't believe how we used to repair helicopter blades.
hugs, Brandi

Oh, I do not doubt your information, but I'm real glad that I did not know this about 30 years ago while rappelling out of a UH-1N Iroquois.

It's bad enough information when they tell you the helicopter is more important then me and that they will cut the rope if necessary to save the bird...

KC

 

[GeneV]

My wood stove grate in the house fell apart this afternoon so I took the one out of the stove in the garage, both stoves are the same, then added a middle brace on then put that one in the house stove, should get me by til the one I ordered shows up. Seem like every two years I have to get a stove grate, maybe 1" thick square stock would last longer.
View attachment 675186

Then the one that was in the house stove I bubble gummed it back together, the middle like the one in the garage welds terrible but the outer part welds ok for cast iron, I used some scrap steel with 10018 rods, then stuck it in the garage stove. I need to get some cast iron rods but last time I bought nickel rods they was like $2.00/rod
View attachment 675189 View attachment 675187 View attachment 675188

I like that there stuff, Oldpath.

 

[GeneV]

Hey Gene,

Thanks for the update on your welding exhaust system.

I'm sure you will make the necessary adjustments when you have the time to make it better for you.

KC

KC, like everything else this here dummy does *points to self*, requires some tinkering.

 

[bindian]

Oh, I do not doubt your information, but I'm real glad that I did not know this about 30 years ago while rappelling out of a UH-1N Iroquois.

It's bad enough information when they tell you the helicopter is more important then me and that they will cut the rope if necessary to save the bird...

KC

KC,
Thank you for your service!:m1helmet:
hugs, Brandi