6013 vs 7018 vs ??

[AHNC]

The coating or white on your rod is likely moisture getting into the rod. It can raise holy bejeepers for you. Whenever I have rod that has been sitting out like yours I toss it on a special (mine vs the kitchens...hers) cookie sheet and heat the rod up in her oven (generally best done while she is shopping) to about 400f. That dries it out and makes it a bit easier to do a decent job...well, depending upon the position, depending upon the material and other things like the phase of the moon:thumbsup:

Back in another life, I was a pipe welder and used 6010 to good effect. Much prefer 7018after the root pass. Prettier, cleans easier. 7018 re-starts, as noted, are harder.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...7018 re-starts, as noted, are harder.

I heard a trick about that which I have yet to try, but I'll pass it along here for the good of the community. Keep an old file handy and run your rod accross the file a few times before you re-start a rod. That removes the glaze that forms on the end of a 7018 rod and really helps the re-start.

I've applied the concept a little with other rods. Much of my welding is done with the pieces sitting on a concrete pad. I'll brush the rod accross the rough concrete a few times. That seems to help re-starts.

 

[wdchyd]

One light tap on a brick or concrete floor works also

 

[Soundguy]

always works for me... to get that lil bit of hard flux off the tip

 

[k0ua]

I have used the file trick for some time, but you can also just pinch the "corn" off that forms, just wait a few seconds for it to cool, and pinch it between thumb and forefinger with you thick gloves. works well

James K0UA

 

[Soundguy]

i already accidentally burn myself thru my glove way to often to intentionally touch hot stuff..


soundguy

 

[wdchyd]

I burn myself doing the same cuz I end up using TIG welding gloves all the time (thinner)....I just smack it on the brick....

 

[cdaigle430]

My first choice is MIG, second choice is-7018 unless it's sheet metal-then 6013. Only use 6011 when you need to cut metal with the rod or fill in as the 6013 is more expensive. I like the 7018 because it's easy to make a great looking weld. I built logging gtrucks, truck headboards, chip vans, fuel tanks and preffer the MIG Of coarse it would have to be a commercial MIG and your garage better be wired up with a three phase circuit

The chalk substence may mean the flux on the rod has exceeded shelf live or they need drying out.