RollTideRam
Veteran Member
I am going to try and take mine in tomorrow to hopefully get the front bracket on my 62d fixed. I am tired of having to use a hammer to reinstall my mower. I will ask about the wheels again. Thanks for the info, JC
62D MMM Creating Divots with Front Wheels
- Thread starter papaw
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Dutch445
Elite Member
Roll Tide,
We had one go out with the front bracket as yours was, until we had
to swap out hood guards (due to a change in design). Once we did that,
I think the brackets for the mower (which can quickly adapt to snowblower) fit much better and the customer was happy he didn't have to use force to
get his front draft assembly on and off.
We had one go out with the front bracket as yours was, until we had
to swap out hood guards (due to a change in design). Once we did that,
I think the brackets for the mower (which can quickly adapt to snowblower) fit much better and the customer was happy he didn't have to use force to
get his front draft assembly on and off.
B8FISH
Gold Member
RollTide--mine was tough to get on too, until the "mower deck expert" at the dealership adjusted it, then it went pretty smoothly. I believe it was just some tweaking to the adjusting nuts in front. The "fix" for the wheels did definitely help the divot problem BTW.
If I've done it right, there should be an attachment of the modificaitons that were made to my 62D MMM by the dealer. It looks like the wheel was swapped out and a grease fitting added. The dealer said this wasn't generally available from JD yet, but some number retrofits like this have been sent out on a trial basis.
We'll let you know how it works in the spring.
Fud
We'll let you know how it works in the spring.
Fud
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Dutch445
Elite Member
thanks for the pic Fud,
but I can't see the difference in the wheel in
your picture,
you said it was a different wheel, that was more
rounded?
(not as much of a square shoulder?)
but I can't see the difference in the wheel in
your picture,
you said it was a different wheel, that was more
rounded?
(not as much of a square shoulder?)
Dutch, did yours have curved face wheels to begin with? Sorry that I didn't have a "before" and "after" picture for you.
Perhaps mine was an oddity, but the face of the original caster wheels (the surface in contact with the ground) was flat, not curved. That meant if the wheel was turned at all from the direction the mower was traveling and the wheel made contact with the ground, the egde of the wheel would occasionally cut a nice furrow in the ground rather that castering to be in line with direction of travel. Now with the curved faced wheels, if that same situation occurs, the wheel should more gracefully skid over the ground with out damage.
I'm stretching my memory without having the mower nearby, but I think originally it had the same wheels on the back and the front.
Finally, the addition of the grease fitting should allow the caster to operate more freely.
Hope that helps.
fud
Perhaps mine was an oddity, but the face of the original caster wheels (the surface in contact with the ground) was flat, not curved. That meant if the wheel was turned at all from the direction the mower was traveling and the wheel made contact with the ground, the egde of the wheel would occasionally cut a nice furrow in the ground rather that castering to be in line with direction of travel. Now with the curved faced wheels, if that same situation occurs, the wheel should more gracefully skid over the ground with out damage.
I'm stretching my memory without having the mower nearby, but I think originally it had the same wheels on the back and the front.
Finally, the addition of the grease fitting should allow the caster to operate more freely.
Hope that helps.
fud
Dutch445
Elite Member
no, those wheels look like much more of a rounded profile,
should help a lot in reducing the divots,,, next year will be
a good test,, keep us posted!
should help a lot in reducing the divots,,, next year will be
a good test,, keep us posted!
RollTideRam
Veteran Member
Another update on this subject. I took my tractor and deck to the dealer in January. This was the 3rd trip for the wheel problems. They forgot to do the DTAC and after I talked to them again they did it in February. They called a few weeks ago and said my parts were in. I picked them up, and all I got was a set of new rounder wheels. They don't have a zerk fitting in the wheel like the old ones. I did not get any response about a zerk fitting for the shaft the wheel goes on. The right side shaft, where the grass/dust comes out is the one that I have to use penetrating oil on every time I mow, to keep it moving freely. I will install the wheels today, but don't think they will solve the problem. After four 60 mile round trips just for the stinking mower wheels, I'm getting a little discouraged with this mowing deck. I wish I had kept my x475 and not traded it in. I'm pretty sure they won't take it back now. JC
I have been following this thead ever since I started it as well as checking Deere for any movement on a solution. Some have stated their dealer said there was a "fix" and some have reported implementation of one. However, when asked for the part numbers or the tech bulletin no one ever responded with specifics. The reason IMHO is that there is no fix or tech bulletin. In the meantime, Deere has introduced drive over mount mowers in their L&G line. The front wheels on these mowers are the ballon type (round corners) and do have a zerk on the spindle. It also appears that the rake/offset is more extreme than the implementation on the CUT drive over MMM. Most likely as mowing season begins for most of the country, this discussion group will "light up" with more complaints by CUT users of the 62D. My recommendation is to complain loud and often to Deere. Only if the uproar is loud enough will it be heard and see Deere fix this issue.
kwolfe
Platinum Member
OK, bear with me because I am really trying to think outside the box here. From the last picture, it does not appear that you can move the wheel back any further without some serious fabrication. My solution, all be it a strech, is another attempt to try and move the wheel contact point the the rear of the pivot point.
In the attached picture, I have drawn on what I am talking about. Remove the bolt and nut that hold on the wheel. install a spring tine (like ones from a dethacher) on either side. When you retighten the bolts, ensure that the tines are pressed firmly against the ground. Where they make contact with the ground should produce a similar effect to have the wheel touch back there. Therefore, when you go to make a turn, the tine will catch and want to spin the wheel.
OK, I'm done. Feel free to rip apart as you see fit.
In the attached picture, I have drawn on what I am talking about. Remove the bolt and nut that hold on the wheel. install a spring tine (like ones from a dethacher) on either side. When you retighten the bolts, ensure that the tines are pressed firmly against the ground. Where they make contact with the ground should produce a similar effect to have the wheel touch back there. Therefore, when you go to make a turn, the tine will catch and want to spin the wheel.
OK, I'm done. Feel free to rip apart as you see fit.
