7,000 lb Trailers Enough?

[fctadam]

I'm looking to buy a trailer for my TC30 with FEL, and backhoe the whole unit weighs 5,000 lbs. Is a 7,000 GVWR trailer large enough to handle the weight of the tractor?

Am I correct when thinking if the trailer weighs 2,000 lbs and the tractor weighs 5,000 that would equal the 7,000 for the trailer weight? That seems to close to call. Or is a 7,000 lb trailer capable of having 7,000 pounds of weight with in?

What exactly is the GWVR? Is that the weight of the trailer and cargo cannot exceed 7,000?

 

[LarryRB]

my trailer is a Bri-Mar 18 ft at 12,000 GVW. I can only load 9700 lbs on it. It is trailer, minus the weight of the trailer equals hauling capacity.. Depending on trailer MFG and what size rails are used, 2/5 is cutting it real close.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Am I correct when thinking if the trailer weighs 2,000 lbs and the tractor weighs 5,000 that would equal the 7,000 for the trailer weight? )</font>

Yes.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What exactly is the GWVR? Is that the weight of the trailer and cargo cannot exceed 7,000? )</font>

Actually it's GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating), which is the combined weight of the trailer and all its cargo, which in this case is 7,000 pounds. Naturally, you can exceed that, just as you can exceed the GVWR of your truck or car, and overloaded pickups and trailers are frequently seen, but it isn't really safe or recommended.

 

[Bert04]

Just make sure you get a trailer with brakes on both axles. I use a 16,000 lb trailer for my nh2120 and it works great. Espesially being towed behind a 3/4 ton pickup.

 

[jinman]

Bird, your advice is so good it must be illegal. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I'd also add that at least one axle needs brakes even with a 3/4 ton tow vehicle. My trailer doesn't have brakes and I tell myself each month that I better put them on. Of course, I only haul my tractor short distances about twice a year. Maybe I should join procrastinators anonymous...when I get around to it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[JimR]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Just make sure you get a trailer with brakes on both axles. I use a 16,000 lb trailer for my nh2120 and it works great. Espesially being towed behind a 3/4 ton pickup. )</font>

You tow a 16K trailer behind a 3/4 ton pickup? Now that is really illegal if loaded up.

Jinman,

When you least expect it you will need those brakes. Probably on a rainy day as the tractor/trailer push your truck down the road when you try to stop. I had a heavy boat without brakes. I learned real quick on a rainy day as they pushed me through a red light. That week I installed a hydraulic brake system with stainless steel disc brakes. All trailers are rated for safe loads. There is also a built in safety factor to cover overloading. I recall whe I went through the scales at a gravel pit with my old 1969 Ford F250. The truck had 12 leaf springs on it for a heavy camper. I had the bed full to the top with washed crushed brick sand. The truck weighed in at 10,200 pounds. The guy made me check it twice as he couldn't believe the weight. I made it home and was really careful about stopping. My truck had manual steering and I could steer it like power steering. The truck weighed 5200 pounds if I recall. This meant I had 5000 pounds of crushed sand in it. Not too bad for a 3/4 ton beefed up truck. The rear axle was not bottomed out either.

 

[LarryRB]

depends on where you live,, here in Mass and CT ALL axles will have brakes.. There is no one can the other can't stuff. Better check the laws where you live. Although even if it is LEGAL, one axle with and one without, just in case I had to cross state lines (do it all the time) I'd have brakes on both axles. Then nothing to worry about.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'd also add that at least one axle needs brakes even with a 3/4 ton tow vehicle. My trailer doesn't have brakes )</font>

Yep, I much prefer brakes on both axles, but like you, the trailer I used to haul my tractors didn't have brakes either. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif But the price was right. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif My brother bought the trailer, new, to use when he was building his house, then left the trailer at my place. And of course, where I lived then, there was very, very little traffic, and I was never in a hurry. It's one of those situations where I say to do as I say; not as I do. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Egon]

Think I'd go for a minimum 10k trailer with brakes all around. Maybe I'm biased cause that's what I got.

Pulled a 15k gross trailer [ 12000 pounds worth of axles ] hooked behind a 3/4 ton with camper and managed to tow it 3500 miles without incident. Wasn't much fun though.

Egon

 

[Logan]

I pull an L3010DT with a box blade and LA482 loader with a combined weight of about 4647 lbs. on a 7,000lb dual axle trailer. It is pushing the limit. My truck is only a 1500 4X4 so I didn't have a lot of choices as far as going to a heavier trailer. When I bought the trailer it had brakes on only one axle and I couldn't really feel them pulling when I stopped. I added brakes on the other axle for about $250 total and it made a dramatic improvement. Now when I apply the brakes the trailer starts slowing the truck down before the truck brakes fully engage. While experimenting with the adjustment of the electronic brake controller I learned two things: With it adjusted to little or no brake action on the trailer (no trailer brakes) I wouldn't consider taking it on the highway PERIOD. With brakes on both axles adjusted to come on properly before my truck brakes begin to lock down I am very comfortable pulling the trailer anywhere. I have heard the argument that pulling a trailer without brakes is safe if you drive at a safe speed and plan ahead. That is well and good on your good days, but doesn't do much good when a child darts in front of you and you have to live with that the rest of your life.

 

[hammer1995]

I haul a L3130 with FEL and box blade on a 16' 7K trailer without brakes that I borrow from a friend. It's quite a nerve racking experience. I can almost guarantee that the extra weight of the BH is going to cause the trailer to sway unless it is positioned precisely. If you're gong to buy a trailer, get at least 10K and brakes.

 

[Lazy]

Hi
I use a 1 ton dually chevy with a 454 engine to pull a 7000 # trailer without trailer brakes loaded with a 100 bales of hay with no problems. each bales weigh around 60-70 pounds. but would like to have a goose neck to make backing a little easier. I have hauled a lot of cars and trucks on the trailer and never had a problem with braking. I think the dual wheels makes the difference.

Charlie.

 

[FordMan2000]

I pull a ford 2000 with FEL and box blade on an 18 foot 10k trailer with brakes on both axles, and have never had any problems, but some times would like a longer trailer to move some of the weight back off of the rear of the truck. So I say you should look at a 18 to 20 foot 10k trailer. but every one knows that the price and your budget with make the final choice for you. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Chuck_Lind]

There's a lot of rumbling about the Feds coming up with a standard for trailers in terms of brakes on a trailer. I hear that anything being towed over 3000 lbs. will require brakes on the towed unit, whether it be a trailer, car or otherwise.

 

[MarkV]

Fctadam, It sounds like you are in the same situation I was recently in. I needed a trailer to haul a smaller tractor than you and could have gotten by with 2 3500lbs. axles and still had about a 500 lbs. cushion. After looking at a good number of trailers I found the difference between 7000lbs and 10000lbs 18 ft trailers with brakes on both axles and the break away system to be right at $300. Figuring that a quality trailer will last the rest of my life and not knowing what my future towing needs, towing vehicle and future equipment might be I went with the bigger trailer. Some where along the line I would have overloaded that 7000 lbs trailer and it would only take one bad incident to cost much more than the $300.

Here on TBN bigger is always better /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif and in this case that is right. You bring a 400lbs boxblade along for the ride and you are over loaded.

MarkV

 

[Bert04]

jim, yeah it is to much weight if you loaded the trailer to max capacity. I have a new 2500hd duramax tow rated at 12,000lb, but never pull anything that heavy. I got a 16,000lb trailer because it is a tri axle with brakes on all axes. it tracks much better, does not sway and tows much nicer than a smaller 12,000lb twin axle. Empty you dont even know your towing anything.

 

[jdcork]

I pull a 7k trailer with one brake axle. On it is a NH TC35d with loader, total weight is about 4200 lbs. With brake controller properly adjusted I can definitely feel the trailer slowing the truck down. Have had several quick stops at lights and I still feel quite comfortable with the rig. Pulling it with a F150 7700GVW and it will go 70 on the interstate if I felt comfortable going that fast. I was going to get a 16 ft trailer and a friend convinced me that the 18ft was the way to go. Boy was he right! Bottom line, buy more than you think you need but not more than you have the capacity to pull comfortably.

 

[hammer1995]

For what it's worth, in my area the prices on 18 and 20 foot trailers are the same. Dealer said that the 20' was more cost effective to make because the steel came in 20' lengths and required less fabrication.

 

[GV40U]

Regarding length, I had the same experience as Hammer1995. The local trailer dealer makes 16 and 20 foot trailers, 18 foot trailers required more fabrication because of the length of steel stock. I purchased a 10,000 lb. GVWR, 2 axle, 20 foot trailer with brakes on both axles. I recently moved all my equipment including my L3430 tractor with loader and back hoe, box scraper and grapple about 400 miles. I didn't weigh the load but I was certainly close to the rated GVW. Probably the only time I will move everything at one time. The extra length (compared to a 16 or 18 foot trailer) is great. I could move things around until I got a reasonable tongue weight and I had room to haul everything in one trip.

 

[BigMike]

fctadam,
If you plan on towing often or far, get a bigger trailer. If you will have very limited travel time or distance, the 7000lb trailer (with brakes) will work okay.One great thing about TBN is all the things you can learn here in just a few minutes, both good and bad. Pulling trailers is a delicate operation even in the best of conditions. Everything is a factor, trailer weight and capacity, tow vehicle weight and capacity, hitch capacity, distribution of weight, braking capacity, tongue weight, travel speed and distance, even how many people you have in the vehicle. Exceeding safety limits of any of these factors is an invitation to disaster. Remember, regardless of how many times you get away with an unsafe practice, that practice does not become any safer.