7 pin connector

[joeu235]

I'm so tired of messing with trailer lights. Does anyone know of a 7 pin connector that is rock solid? I'd be willing to pay up if I never have to mess with it again.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I'm so tired of messing with trailer lights. Does anyone know of a 7 pin connector that is rock solid? I'd be willing to pay up if I never have to mess with it again.

Hahaha. I feel your pain. What issues are you having? I use shrink crimp connectors and shrink tubing on all connectors. My issues have been greatly reduced after replacing nearly all the cords on my trailers and any and all scotch locks I come across

Brett

 

[newbury]

I just went through that with my 2002 F350.
When I bought the truck in 2012 I didn't know the previous owner had rewired the plug. I had numeroaus problems until I tor it apart and found he had relied on RTV to hold the wires together. Fixed that and it worked for years, until 2 weeks ago. With a new tester light (Amazon.com: CURT 5827 7-Way RV Blade Connector Tester: Automotive) everything showed good, but the running lights didn't work. So we started testing all the trailer lights looking for a short. Finally our son found that there was virtually no power on the pin and the tester was bad.
Somewhere in the wiring harness it shorted. Bypassed that and all worked fine.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I put trailer wiring in PVC conduit/junction boxes and solder all connections. Running conduit right up to the brake backing plates takes some doing! Generally speaking, the plugs don't give too much trouble. Storing them when not in use is the biggest challenge.

 

[joeu235]

Hahaha. I feel your pain. What issues are you having? I use shrink crimp connectors and shrink tubing on all connectors. My issues have been greatly reduced after replacing nearly all the cords on my trailers and any and all scotch locks I come across

Brett

I was pulling a 14,000# load. I was going down the steepest decline within 100 miles and my truck said "Trailer Disconnected". My first thought was "Why the F right now" Luckily my truck has an exhaust brake so I was able to maintain 25 miles an hour until I got to the bottom. I pulled over at a gas station and wiggled the connector around and it started working again. I searched on internet and found a connector that the wires are molded onto it instead of screwed onto the end. I think I'll replace the connector with one of these.

I've started soldering every connection as well.

18 wheeler trailers have to have a more reliable system than the POS on lighter duty trailers.

 

[jmc]

My problem on infrequently used trailer connections is usually the 7 ( or 3) brass connector pins/holes. I can usually wire brush the pins but it would be nice to have a little brush that would fit inside the holes. Kinda equivalent to a battery cable terminal cleaner.

 

[JPRambo]

Google "teminal connector cleaner" its a wire brush for inside the connections.

 

[dfkrug]

I put trailer wiring in PVC conduit/junction boxes and solder all connections. Running conduit right up to the brake backing plates takes some doing! Generally speaking, the plugs don't give too much trouble. Storing them when not in use is the biggest challenge.

As I am prepping my big trailer for trip in a few days, I get to revisit my connections. Conduit is a good idea, as
are soldered connections. I have no good solution to storing my 7-pin plug as the trailer lives outside. This
trailer has electric brakes, so the connections have to be good to pass the high current needed.

My other trailer has no brakes, but I did convert it to LED lights. That is also something that can help as the
lights take much less current.

 

[Rustyiron]

I put trailer wiring in PVC conduit/junction boxes and solder all connections. Running conduit right up to the brake backing plates takes some doing! Generally speaking, the plugs don't give too much trouble. Storing them when not in use is the biggest challenge.

:thumbsup:
That and multiple grounding points around the trailer if your rewiring.
The biggest problem with the 7 pin flat RV type is not the connectors but the trailer side of things, usually the ground. The truck (factory) side has given me little trouble on both Ford & GM's. Die electric grease is your friend also!:thumbsup:

 

[Industrial Toys]

Actually I am quite impressed with those junky flat style (and single) connectors. I have never had issues with the actual connection prongs and sockets.

I do think some of my wiring jobs were worth more than the trailer itself. One I still borrow (that used to be mine) is rotted to death but the lights all work perfectly!

 

[newbury]

<snip> I searched on internet and found a connector that the wires are molded onto it instead of screwed onto the end. I think I'll replace the connector with one of these.
<snip>

Could you share the link?

 

[ddbackhoe]

As I am prepping my big trailer for trip in a few days, I get to revisit my connections. Conduit is a good idea, as
are soldered connections. I have no good solution to storing my 7-pin plug as the trailer lives outside. This
trailer has electric brakes, so the connections have to be good to pass the high current needed.

My other trailer has no brakes, but I did convert it to LED lights. That is also something that can help as the
lights take much less current.

Put a covered socket on both ends and use a coiled cable. Little more up front, but I like it better.

7-way Coiled Cable | AW Direct

 

[ddbackhoe]

Could you share the link?

I think he's referring to this type, Hopkins 7-Way RV Style Connector with Molded Cable - Trailer End - 8' Long - RV Standard Hopkins Wiring H246

These are nice too, Epicord 7-Way Molded Trailer Plug with Junction Box - 1' Long Epicord Wiring 277-141

 

[Teachu2]

My problem on infrequently used trailer connections is usually the 7 ( or 3) brass connector pins/holes. I can usually wire brush the pins but it would be nice to have a little brush that would fit inside the holes. Kinda equivalent to a battery cable terminal cleaner.

Next time you're at WalMart, go to sporting goods and get a .17 caliber bore brush.

 

[ddbackhoe]

My problem on infrequently used trailer connections is usually the 7 ( or 3) brass connector pins/holes. I can usually wire brush the pins but it would be nice to have a little brush that would fit inside the holes. Kinda equivalent to a battery cable terminal cleaner.

Amazon.com: Innovative Products of America 828 7-Way Spade Pin Towing Maintenance Kit: Automotive

 

[Morning Wood]

The 7 pin round with round connectors is a better plug than the 7 pin round rv style plug. Keeping everything cleaned off and good electrical connections is really all it takes though.

 

[cmyoung2]

I've used the molded plugs, they can still separate inside the plug. I just use the regular screw type connectors, keep a wiring diagram in the truck. An idea to "store" the unhooked end is to mount an old female end under the tongue and just plug it in. Keeps it out of the dirt, fill it with di-electric grease and you've solved a couple of problems

 

[Ford850]

I spray a light coat of Fluid Film on all my plugs. It really makes connections easier/smoother and reduces oxidation and corrosion.

 

[jmc]

My problem on infrequently used trailer connections is usually the 7 ( or 3) brass connector pins/holes. I can usually wire brush the pins but it would be nice to have a little brush that would fit inside the holes. Kinda equivalent to a battery cable terminal cleaner.

Thanks to the members who pointed out that these brushes are available. Teachu2's .17 caliber bore brush recommedation will be cheap and easy to try.

 

[joeu235]

Thanks for the ideas. I just ordered the brush off Amazon