7014s

[Arc weld]

7014 aren't used for the root pass. Root pass is a term usually related to pipe welding but is often the term used for a first pass on structural welding. A root pass is used on a bevel joint and is the first pass to get full penetration into the "root"(bottom of the bevel).

 

[Shield Arc]

The last few years I've played with a lot of different 60xx rods. With the same gap, and land, amp for amp Hobart's 335A 6011 gets the best penetration.:shocked:

 

[rankrank1]

The last few years I've played with a lot of different 60xx rods. With the same gap, and land, amp for amp Hobart's 335A 6011 gets the best penetration.:shocked:

To the OP 6011 is what you would use for a deep penetration root pass if required and then cap with your 7014. (6010 is DC only)

I agree with shieldarc on recommending the Hobart 6011 335A but for different reasons. In my opinion 335A Hobart 6011 is the easiest brand of the 6011 to run (especially on an AC buzzbox). Personally I struggle with 6011 sometimes and I only ever bother using 1/8" diameter Hobart 6011 335A. 6011 will take more skill than that 7014 to run.

 

[bigdeano]

I use 7014 for 95% of my welding for the last 30+ years. I have an old Sears buzz box that I've built all kinds of stuff with. For vertical or overhead I use 6011. 7014 will do vertical if you weld from top down, but you have to keep moving. If you want good penetration with 7014 use plenty of amps. I weld 1/16 wall square tubing with it at low amps and rapid travel with 3/32 rod.

I can't remember ever having a weld break that I made with 7014. I guess it's called drag rod, but I hold an arc just like any other rod.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

It will pass a bend test, but not so good with an impact test. Broke with only 10-blows of a 4-pound hammer.

Sure your arm didn't get tired by the time you got to the 7018?

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Penetration is what you make it. Really if the rod will melt and fuse properly into the top of the material under it, that's all that's needed for a sound weld. If you don't prep the joint correctly to work with the rod you are using, then it's not the rod's fault for not penetrating down that last 1/4". I've used 7014's and run bull dozers over those welds on a trailer everyday when I was younger. It used to be called a "fab" rod, not because it was "fabulous", which it is in the right hands, but because it was the choice of fabricators when they needed to fabricate an item without the use of mig. It's a fast deposit rod and it reduces welding time.

 

[Shield Arc]

Sure your arm didn't get tired by the time you got to the 7018?

Mark we can do an experiment to see if my arm gets tired. Do you remember the movie Payback with Mel Gibson? If so do you remember the scene where Mel got a pedicure with a 4-pound hammer? Just guessing here, but I'll bet you have 10 toes. We can get together, and I'll bring my 4-pound hammer. When I get to your 7th or 8th toe you tell me if it is starting to hurt less! :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I prefer the old carni sideshow, bell and hammer strength tester.

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh come on! I promise I won't feel a thing.