OP
nightskyisme
Member
Yeah, I am aware of the volatile natue of the ether....I just put a "wiff" of it near the intake and waited a good minute just to see if it started.....Ill hold off on it for now....thanks
755 hard to start, won't idle
- Thread starter nightskyisme
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OP
nightskyisme
Member
Well, applied B+ to red and ground to solenoid leads.....doesn't pull in, but when I pull it in, it locks and stays in until I remove the voltage.....when I turn the key to start it (still wont start) the solenoid pulls right in while cranking, so I assume this is operating as it should? Guess I should start checking fuel-related items now?
JD755
Platinum Member
Sounds like the solenoid is working correctly. That's good. But since you have to manually hold it in while the engine runs you need to insure 12 volts is applied to the red wire during use. There is still the possibility of dirty/corroded connectors. After it pulls in during start mode, it should stay in until the key is turned completely off.
Also, the linkage has an adjustment range. It is possible that is incorrect and the solenoid cannot be electrically pulled in far enough to engage the latch. Momentarily turn the key to start, then leave it on run. If the solenoid did not stay engaged, manually engage it and see if it stays. Your previous test showed the solenoid can engage the latch, so if it does not stay now then you do not have 12 volts. If it stays, the solenoid was not pulling in far enough to latch.
Also, the linkage has an adjustment range. It is possible that is incorrect and the solenoid cannot be electrically pulled in far enough to engage the latch. Momentarily turn the key to start, then leave it on run. If the solenoid did not stay engaged, manually engage it and see if it stays. Your previous test showed the solenoid can engage the latch, so if it does not stay now then you do not have 12 volts. If it stays, the solenoid was not pulling in far enough to latch.
OP
nightskyisme
Member
Regardless of the solenoid, it still doesn't start. I should mention the morning it didn't start, fuel was leaking from the fuel-bowl, so I removed and reinstalled it tighter, it then was fine....I did unscrew the bleeder screw and the lines coming out of the fuel-pump area and got fuel, should I have bled it more or somewhere else? Don't forget, I did get it started and it ran fine at maximun idle, just wouldn't idle and now doesn't start....any other things to check? Thanks again.
JD755
Platinum Member
If you have an owner manual, it does describe the bleed procedure. There is one bleed screw at the fuel filter, then another one where the fuel hose enters the injectors. First bleed the one at the filter, then the one at the injectors. If that is not sufficient, the top nozzle nuts at each injector can be loosened and bled. Hold the bottom nuts in place while loosening the top nuts.
I still need to be clear on whether the solenoid is closing when the key is left on after an attempted start. If you check where the solenoid linkage connects, it is in the engine. So there will be no residual fuel in a line to keep the engine going briefly after an attempted start. The fuel is immediately shut off in the engine and it will die immediately.
Keep at it. We'll get this thing started!
I still need to be clear on whether the solenoid is closing when the key is left on after an attempted start. If you check where the solenoid linkage connects, it is in the engine. So there will be no residual fuel in a line to keep the engine going briefly after an attempted start. The fuel is immediately shut off in the engine and it will die immediately.
Keep at it. We'll get this thing started!
OP
nightskyisme
Member
Ok, just came in from the garage.....the solenoid pulls in fine while cranking, but returns when I stop cranking (key still on)....good/not good? As for bleeding, since it won't run, I assume I loosen ALL the bleed areas or one at a time while cranking? Thanks
JD755
Platinum Member
Nice thing about the 755 is you don't need to crank the engine while bleeding the fuel line. As long as the key is on, the electric fuel pump will run and provide fuel for bleeding. (The late model 855 and all 955 changed to a mechanical pump that does require cranking.) You need to bleed the line in sequence as the fuel comes from the tank. This means one point at a time. First at the filter, then below the injectors. Only after you have done those in sequence and there is still a problem would you need to open the top nuts at the injectors and bleed there. At each of the points open the line until fuel flows with no air bubbles, then close that point and go to the next one.
You do however still have a problem with the solenoid operation that needs to be fixed first. It is shutting off the fuel at the engine so it will never run. Disconnect the solenoid plunger from the spring loaded fuel shut off linkage. Turn on the key and push in the plunger. If it latches and cannot be pulled out then we can try resetting the linkage. But if it does not latch then you do not have 12 volts. You already tested the solenoid with 12 volts applied separate from the harness and saw it worked. This would be the same test but using the harness wiring. So if it does not latch we will need to check the tractor wiring.
You do however still have a problem with the solenoid operation that needs to be fixed first. It is shutting off the fuel at the engine so it will never run. Disconnect the solenoid plunger from the spring loaded fuel shut off linkage. Turn on the key and push in the plunger. If it latches and cannot be pulled out then we can try resetting the linkage. But if it does not latch then you do not have 12 volts. You already tested the solenoid with 12 volts applied separate from the harness and saw it worked. This would be the same test but using the harness wiring. So if it does not latch we will need to check the tractor wiring.
OP
nightskyisme
Member
Well, I just bled the two screws on the fuel bowl and the one below the injector lines, all went well, BUT when I loosed the injector lines just above the last bleed screw on top of the fuel pump unit, nothing.....dry and no fuel....what gives there? (I even fiddled with the throttle and the solenoid) nothing...dry. I would assume there should be fuel coming out of those or does trhe engine actually need to be running for that?
Yes, the engine needs to be cranking to get fuel out of the injector lines. Since you are having fuel solenoid problems, try holding the solenoid in while cranking. You should see fuel spurting out with each revolution of the engine.
OP
nightskyisme
Member
Thanks, Ill try it
