79 Ford TRUCK won't start

[farm boy00]

Ignition module

Already have 2 brand new ones under the hood. Bought one 2 years ago and the other this spring. Literally not even 5 miles on the 2 year old one.

Going to call auto zone today and try the pickup coil. Better yet I might just stop in. They are only about a mile from my school

 

[Gem99ultra]

Ignition module

X2. Ignition module can last 5 minutes or 50 years. AutoZone can check it for you free.

PS - I replace three of them on my '78 Ford PU inside of 10 years, one being defective upon purchase.

 

[farm boy00]

When the truck was last running it would run till warm then shut off cool down send run again


Dint think it's the brain module. Have put 2 new in anb bought a used one to put in also. Unless I got the 3 unlucky in a row

 

[Gem99ultra]

Very possibly it is not the electronic controller. But... mine would run just fine, then when I stopped for a anything, it was simply dead. No start.
Regardless, it sure is aggravating when it's 15* outside and the dang thing doesn't want to go. I certainly sympathize with you.

 

[Zebrafive]

The pick up coil and reluctor are what replace the points in the dura spark and other newer electronic ignitions although unlike the points- the signal needs to be amplified before it can directly trigger the ignition coil by opening the circuit.


I would Make absolutely sure the black ground mentioned earlier is clean and securely grounded- had this same problem at times with some of my old AMC/jeeps- uses their version of the early dura spark and the ground is critical.

It sounds like it could be the pick up coil , seen a few go bad in Amcs and (GMs) to and they are great for driving a long and stranding a vehicle- then the engine cools down and will start right back up like there is no problem - till the next time you get a few miles from home...

Pick up coils produce a weak signal , have always used an oscilloscope to check for output.

Also can't speak for the Ford dura spark- but gms generally require removing the entire distributor and then driving the roll pin out of the drive gear to remove the shaft from the distributor housing before the pick up coil can be removed...



Ps. if the distributor does need removed mark the distributor cap position with something on the engine block and also the rotors position to the housing -( Before removal.) otherwise you will have to find #1 TDC compression and re time the engine.


One other thing as i mentioned earlier some of my AMCs had the early dura spark - but when they failed it has become cheaper to buy a new HEI conversion instead - last one i bought for my 401 v8 was like $50 and came with a high output module and coil with a performance cap and vacuum advance-

the best part- 1 wire + 12 volt hot and you are in business. but not sure if they are available for Fords?

On the ford v8 the pickup coil can be replaced without pulling the dristibutor or having to remove the shaft. So I assume the 6 is the same. Has to be taken aart from the top to get to the coil which is mounted on a plate.

There is a tiny pin that keys the metal rotor (not sure the correct name) 8 arms on a v8, 6 on a 6 cylinder that can be easily lost.

 

[farm boy00]

On the ford v8 the pickup coil can be replaced without pulling the dristibutor or having to remove the shaft. So I assume the 6 is the same. Has to be taken aart from the top to get to the coil which is mounted on a plate.

There is a tiny pin that keys the metal rotor (not sure the correct name) 8 arms on a v8, 6 on a 6 cylinder that can be easily lost.

I have replaced one on a 90s ford v8. I remember it how you say it is. I would imagine this would be just the same or easier.


Local auto zone didn't have it in Stock bit will be there tomorrow at 11 and $37 dollars later. Then I also got 2 sets of terminal ends. The truck has an added battery for the plow and there was a winch. Also 4 big KS lights on the roll bar

 

[sd455dan]

On the ford v8 the pickup coil can be replaced without pulling the dristibutor or having to remove the shaft. So I assume the 6 is the same. Has to be taken aart from the top to get to the coil which is mounted on a plate.

There is a tiny pin that keys the metal rotor (not sure the correct name) 8 arms on a v8, 6 on a 6 cylinder that can be easily lost.

yeah wasn't sure- I do remember the Dura sparks have a lot more room under the cap than most other distributors.

That is a nice feature to be able to replace the pick up coil without distributor removal.


I understand why others are saying replace the module, and that would normally be the first place to start -but sounds like it has been eliminated... Have had to replace 4 pick up coils over the years- but many, many more modules...


any way good luck farm boy00 i am sure you will get it sorted out

 

[farm boy00]

yeah wasn't sure- I do remember the Dura sparks have a lot more room under the cap than most other distributors.

That is a nice feature to be able to replace the pick up coil without distributor removal.

I understand why others are saying replace the module, and that would normally be the first place to start -but sounds like it has been eliminated... Have had to replace 4 pick up coils over the years- but many, many more modules...

any way good luck farm boy00 i am sure you will get it sorted out

Thanks. Hopefully this will fix it. Been fighting with this truck for over 2 years but hey its a good old ford.

Stopping at auto zone today to pickup the pickup coil and have to buy a control switch for my new plowing partners truck so he will be ready to go

 

[drajj5]

There really is nothing to these old trucks; electrical systems comprised of very few part(s)

Coil
Module (Brain)
Distributor

If you feel certain that the coil is good, and the Module is good... only thing left is a loose/broken wire or the Pickup in the Distributor. You can purchase the Pickup and replace it on your Distributor or you can spend a few bucks more and replace the entire assy. I would choose the latter as your current dizzy has been in that truck for over 30 years. They will set you back around 50bucks and have all new guts in it. 5-10 min to install and voila' all done. Certainly cheaper than "later model stuff" and easier to work on.




As an afterthought- I would spend just a bit more and replace (at least) the cap and rotor as well.... Plugs/wires are optional but why not do a tune up since you are under the hood!

 

[farm boy00]

There really is nothing to these old trucks; electrical systems comprised of very few part(s)

Coil
Module (Brain)
Distributor

If you feel certain that the coil is good, and the Module is good... only thing left is a loose/broken wire or the Pickup in the Distributor. You can purchase the Pickup and replace it on your Distributor or you can spend a few bucks more and replace the entire assy. I would choose the latter as your current dizzy has been in that truck for over 30 years. They will set you back around 50bucks and have all new guts in it. 5-10 min to install and voila' all done. Certainly cheaper than "later model stuff" and easier to work on.

As an afterthought- I would spend just a bit more and replace (at least) the cap and rotor as well.... Plugs/wires are optional but why not do a tune up since you are under the hood!

Currently budget will not allow for a new distributer or cap. It seems silly but out of the $100 I'm down to $40 without getting more parts