850 with 3 point problem

[wolftree]

Yes, the two photos of filter screen says your fluid was dirty.

If that goop in orange bucket came out of your tractor, DO NOT put it back in for any reason, that is nasty.

The $45 shelf brand fluid will be fine as long as it says for John Deere.

 

[lilburr]

OK, I changed out the hyd fluids and cleaned the screen. I contacted our local oil company, a company that deals with oils, blends, etc; they cross-referenced a hydraulic fluid equal to JD Hy-gard (in specs) with a MUCH better price. and the action is much more normal and responsive. I still am fighting it a little (I think my 6 ft is too much) but the 3pt seems more responsive.

A note about buying used equipment: as suggested here, purchase an owners manual and learn about the piece. Before, I have never considered a warm-up period for hyd fluids. or knew the function of the knob (under seat) or alotta other stuff on this simple little unit, but important stuff for the proper operation. Hopefully, I didnt mess around and overheat my hyd pump (by jacking around with knobs and valves) or something else stupid.

I think it was a clogged hyd system. and I'll keep you posted after a few days use.

Thanks yall.

 

[lilburr]

My three point problems seems to have been corrected with a second flush of the fluid, second screen cleaning, and proper fluid replacement. The three point response is acting like I expect it now that I have also tweaked the two adjustment knobs under the seat.

Now, just yesterday, it started blowing coolant out the overflow tank as I was working it, for less than an hour. According to the temp gauge (not JD factory gauge), all was good at ~150. (I reckon this just shows me how worthless the temp gauge set-up is.) I quit the work but continued up the hill to the barn. It did not smell hot, sounded fine, so I took it the 1,000 feet up the hill to park it. It was losing coolant though, overheating. When I parked it, except for the coolant overflow, tractor seemed OK. and the overflow stopped after cutting off the engine, me thinks. When I got the hood pulled, everything was settled down pretty much.

Coincidentally, this was my first run with 4 (40lb) JD weights hanging on the front, for better traction (on this hilly drive). Already dragging a 6 ft boxblade and adding this weight on the front, I wonder what could have caused the boilover ? Since checking thru the owners man, I operate at ~ 1900-2000 rpm when working the tractor and allow for a warm-up period before actual use. Unless its a little touch-up, I am dragging down the hill and not up the hill.

Any ideas on this ? Also, does this tractor, JD850, need a thermostat or can I take it out and run it ?

 

[Labrat]

The T stat should be a 160° so 150° on the gauge is normal (providing it's working) Flush the radiator fins with a garden hose, Make sure the fan belt is tight and you can remove the T stat for testing. see if it still burps under load. If so run it with the T stat out and the cap off and see if it's circulating coolant.

 

[knotweed]

I have the Yanmar 1610D which is a close relation to the JD 750. My issues were the exact same as yours. First, the 3 point got slow and eventually quit working. I had recently changed the hydro fluid and cleaned the screen so I eliminated this as the problem source. It turned out to be the valve under the seat had worn seals. A replacement fixed it. Next, it started overheating. I read on TBN that Cascade dish washing powder was a good radiator flush. (about a half cup mixed with water poured into the radiator). Lots of rust and debris came out after about a 4 day flush. Temperature back to normal.

 

[lilburr]

Looks like I'm gonna flush my cooling system and change out the 'stat. I have not yet removed the thermostat but am wondering where to find the replacement without having to go out to the JD parts counter. Manual specs a 160F but nothing else. I have seen an alternative parts house here (than JD) but did not bookmark it, can you list it again ? Can NAPA or another type parts house replace with a sorta generic thermostat ?

 

[wolftree]

Try just flushing the system first. You have 20+ years of crud in the radiator and engine block.

I will not swear to it it, but a 160 degree Napa thermostat should fit and work perfectly. Replace your radiator cap as well. Actually, I would replace the radiator cap first. Change it out as you add radiator flush, run it a few days, then drain cooling system.

Is there a coolant drain on the engine block as well? If so, drain it also to get as much old coolant and crud out as you can.

 

[lilburr]

T.

Is there a coolant drain on the engine block as well? If so, drain it also to get as much old coolant and crud out as you can.

I wonder about that block plug also. Directly above the ID 'label' on left side of block is a bolt of some sort. Anybody know where the block plug is located ?

 

[wolftree]

Is the bolt by the ID label square headed? If so, it is the block drain. After running the coolant flush a few days, drain both the radiator and the engine block.

Antifreeze is poisinous to animals, so be carefull. Do not leave any puddles on the ground.

 

[lilburr]

OK, I'm still working with this 850 and the 'overheating'. According to the temp gauge, it is not reaching a boiling point (at the stat anyway) so it is not boiling over I guess, but spewing coolant.

So I've got this: no oil / fuel in coolant, no bubbling out of cap, dipstick is clean oil (although hot to grab), no apparent or obvious leaks or sounds, temp gauge does not get over 175 or so (160 stat installed), system flushed and replaced with antifreeze, new rad cap, stat, ever thing seems to be in order.

After no more than thirty minutes of running, it starts spewing coolant out of the overflow canister. I wonder if the tractor just does not want a full cooling system to operate. Im fixin to let it heat up, spew out, and cool; and not top it off, just work with what level coolant it holds down. Friend suggests an air bubble in system and will have to work itself out.

anybody got something on this ?

 

[wolftree]

You have it correct, let it run where it wants to. I have had a few that way as well. Keep an eye on your temperature gauge now that you trust it. Keep the radiator blown out of chaff.

 

[Henri88]

I agree with Wolftree. I've had that problem on a Hough 60 payloader with an International engine. I just let it settle and had no issues of overheating. My only question to you is, have you replace the cap with the same pressure rating that was on the old one, or have you check what is recommended for that model. In all these year, there is a possibility that the cap was replace with the wrong specs.

 

[lilburr]

This overheating problem on my 850 is still hanging around. Temp gauge reached ~ 250 Saturday as I was testing and tooling around with some rather light duty chores, including a little driveway work with a 6ft boxblade and a test run down the dirtroad for a 1/4 mile or so at 'highway speeds'. Still not able run this 850 for long period of time, 30 or 40 minutes and it is spewing coolant. Going by our latest posts, I was trying to establish a running level of coolant this unit will run at.

On this unit, the overflow canister is only a 'tupperware grade' plastic with a simple snap-lid - and it is intended for a pressurized system. After bringing it up to working temp, it blows coolant outta this simple snap lid. S'pose it is in the design to let off pressure at this point when it gets to a certain temp (or pressure) ? and when this lid is compromised, we are running on an open system (like running with the rad cap off). During this time, temp gauge is not an accurate reading and when re-capped, gauge jumps up to hot (and fills overflow and appears under great pressure.

When allowing to cool, radiator and coolant seem to cool rather quickly but engine block remains at a really hot level for a good while (I reckon meaning really hot). Makes me wonder how much flow thru the system Ive got.

I guess my bottom line is - is this 6ft boxblade too much strain ? I also have added a little frontend ballast with 160lb of weight. When idling, raising the implement requires a 1600 + rpm to work it without a definite change of engine sound in workload. Manual suggests running at 1800-2100 for working loads. and it seems that when running at this range, thats when the pressures jump.

I guess from this topic, one can tell just how lost I am with this little tractor.

 

[wolftree]

After you ran the coolant flush, did you drain the system? If so, how nasty was it? Do you have coolant flush running in system now?

You have 20 years of crud and scale built up in the radiator and engine block, a one time running for a few days may not be enough. You may need to have the radiator boiled out if it is a copper radiator. They cannot boil aluminum radiators, replacement only.


If you feel your temp gauge is lying, replace it. If it is an individual gauge rather than part of the instrument cluster, look at Stewart-Warner's gauges.

 

[4310]

I can't help you much other than to tell you that I don't think that the 6' box blade is too much for your 850. Before I sold mine I routinely finish mowed 5+ acres with a 6' rear mower and in the winter I used a 5' rear blade to pull snow out of the drive, and the neighbors, and their neighbors, etc. Sometimes it was a foot or more deep. I never had a problem with overheating no matter how hard I used it.

 

[4310]

P.S.

It did seem to keep its own coolant level where it wanted it. I remember flushing it and then filling it back up and then having to add a little to the overflow bottle after using it a time or two. It worked itself out. After it cooled I checked the radiator and as long as it was full of coolant and there was coolant in the overflow bottle I didn't worry about it.

 

[lilburr]

wolf, Flush from initial round of testing was done more like a automobile flushing (when changing anti freeze). This area had an unusual cold streak right about that time with temps in the mid20s and I did not want to leave tractor unprotected (straight water - no antifreeze). It looks like we are in for some nice weather the next few days and I will run with flush in system for this time, then flush after several hours usage. I expect work times of no more than half hour before overheating and will try to operate like this for several runs.

thanks ever body and I'll get back to ya

 

[wolftree]

Look at your radiator hoses. Old hoses have been known to collapse, restricting water flow, then causing overheating. If you have replaced the thermostat and radiator cap with the correct parts, then hoses would be my next choice.

 

[lilburr]

Ill tell you what, if it aint one thang its another...

Now that I'm doing an extended flush process (a few days running), the dang thing wont start ! Ive got them clicking sounds instead of a crank. Since Ive had it (July) it has clicked a couple times before turning over the starter just about ever time but the last couple days, no start, just clicking sound.

I have replaced battery cables and battery just because its a new (to me) unit. After reading several threads on this subject, Ima gonna check and clean all connections that Ive re-done and check out the battery power on starting.

Sometimes its good to live down here where it dont get to freezing too bad this early but we are gonna get a little this weekend and Ill have to re-fill with antifreeze or at least drain it of flush.

 

[lilburr]

A couple days of no-running and then out of nowhere (not really outta nowhere; I had taken out and re-installed batt cables, and cleaned and tightened connections with no apparent change until this), it cranks on Saturday, and I did light work for a couple one hour runs. I understand that establishing 'ground' is essential and this should be the problem with the clicking instead of starter turning motor. I am chasing all connections in this starting system to the starter. I have visually inspected under the dash and all 'appears' normal and tightened.

After running on Sat, I drained the flush and re-filled with coolant, letting the engine warm up with the cap off. Flush was not overly nasty but was a grayish color, did not appear to be oily. Im looking for a 'burp' or air in the system to be let out while re-filling coolant into the running tractor with cap off. It overflowed the coolant after a few minutes and I probably shoulda let it continue but let it cool instead. Its fairly cold around here for a couple days, although not really cold. After I finally get out there, Im gonna start without cap again, let it warm up and see what happens.

It seems to run alright if I keep the load down and dont do a lotta backin and forthin, working moves. I will go from low range to high when re-positioning, just for the convenience of moving with a little less effort. During this working, engine stays at constant RPM of 1500 - 1800. It seems to heat up when running more RPMs. Running at this lower RPM seems to give me more seat time without overflow.

Still chasing this thing ...