850 with 3 point problem

[lilburr]

wolf,

1) I ordered a owners manual and a shop manual last night from ebay.

2) I'll play around with it later today

3) no, it was a fluid at the local auto parts house that had JohnDeere listed on the label, but it was not factory JohnDeere fluid.

4) thanks, i got no clue, learning ever day.

5) hmm, i've got a little time on this fluid change and it just started 'failing' so ...

6) no

Many thanks for yalls' advice, Im gonna check fluid level and top off if needed. When I changed it (earlier), I made the screen 'like new'. But I have heard that a couple changes may be required (?).

 

[lilburr]

lilburr,

If your tractor has power steering, then according to an older posting here at TBN, you should have a hydraulic filter just ahead of the axle on left side. According to that posting, you want to drain hydraulic system BEFORE removing the filter.

This is also the location of the screen. No actual filter was present in this location but the screen seemed correct. no power steering.

 

[wolftree]

As long as the fluid was approved for John Deere, then it should be ok. Never add a fluid not approved for John Deere. My ex-FIL borrowed my tractor, his tractor used a different fluid. When he cycled the remote cylinders, he contaminated my fluid and turned it to jelly and nothing worked. I had to drain $100 worth of fluid, clean and refill with new fluid.

 

[lilburr]

Ok, the red lever located under seat does function. When set all the way 'forward, 3pt raises but does not lower implement (as far as I could tell), when set all the way 'back, it acts the same. When set to a vertical position (like the photos above), 3pt performs.

Fluid check shows as clearish golden brown (as new) and in range on the dipstick.

An earlier topic I started when tractor was first purchased (end of June) was questioning my using 6ft implements on hand (from my bigger old fordsen) on this smaller framed 850. I am planning on downsizing to a 5ft boxblade but I wonder if the tractor is a little small for even a little of this type work. I'm only clearing a little of the 'summer growth' from around the barnyard and living area and need to do some rather repetitive driveway work.

 

[wolftree]

lilburr,

I would certainly try using the 6' implements you now have before rushing to replace them. You may need to fill your rear tires with ballast(Rimguard brand or windsheild washer fluid). You may need front end weights if you do not have a front loader mounted on your tractor.

 

[lilburr]

hey wolf, my next inquiry was about adding weight. I've got access to a couple JD front weights and I've gotta check on (learn) loading the rear tires.

Still wondering about the sluggish 3pt; thinking maybe that 6ft is a little big for performance or maybe pump is wore out.

Manuals are due middle of next week or later.

 

[wolftree]

lilburr,

Rimguard is a brand name of liquid tire ballasting fluid. Others use windsheild wiper fluid. Wiper fluid is not as heavy per gallon but cheaper. Most any tractor dealer or Ag tire dealer can fill your rears. There are even kits for doing it yourself. Search here at TBN or on-line to find out more information as to which is the better choice for you. I would not use calcium. It corrodes your rims over time. If you are far enough South to not have sustained freezing weather, even water can be used as ballast.

Iron front weights usually sell new for $1 a pound from a dealer. So any thing less than $1/pound is a good deal. Make sure they fit and bolt to your tractor before buying.

Your manuals will tell you about selecting and mounting weights and probably even have infomation about fluid loading your rears.

After receiving your manuals, you should be able to determine if the hydraulic pump is worn. If you determine that it is worn, John Deere will probably offer a rebuilt pump at a big savings over a new pump. Do not throw your old pump away. It is valuable and can be rebuilt. Deere will give you a core price when you take your old pump back to them $$$.

Your JD 850 may have had several different pumps available depending on many things; power steering, remotes and other factors. If the larger volume pump physically fits your tractor, it would be well worth getting it over what you currently have.

Look on the pump itself for a manufactureres name and model. You may find a hydraulic pump repair shop near you that can rebuild it for a bigger savings if you do not mind the tractor being "down" while you are having pump rebuilt.

 

[lilburr]

OK, I have received both manuals, the operators manual and the shop manual, and both offer good information. I have a lot of catching up maintenance to do and these (especially the shop) give me a good confidence and direction. a lot to learn about proper and correct means to treat this tractor that may make a difference in what I'm getting out of it. (like simply warming up)

Wolf, I have talked to the JD dealer and they are not flexible about the servicing or upkeep of a JD. He has never heard of re-building or core charges to a pump. He did suggest changing out the fluids and checking the screen again. and also to fill with diesel fuel and flush again if screen was dirty (diesel fuel being a little cheaper to cycle than hyd fluid). He also said JD-Hygard is the only fluid to use. I definitely will hunt a hydraulics business and inquire on re-builds (based on a HD pump price ~ $700). Before this though, I will have hyd pressures checked, 2000lb is desired, a little less is acceptable.

They is a lot to learn here on ballast by using the search (in case anybody wonders).

When changing fluid, I am gonna catch this fluid in a clean bucket, check it and filter it if needed and re-use, seem OK ?

 

[wolftree]

lilburr,

Make sure the container you drain your hydraulic fluid into is perfectly clean. Did you keep the hydraulic fluid container when you changed fluid earlier and sealed it back up? If so, then it should be ok.

Fold several layers of cheese cloth over a funnel mouth as you drain the fluid to catch debris. You can get cheese cloth at an auto parts retailer in the body wax area. It is used as a polishing cloth. Tie a string or large rubber band on funnel to hold cloth as you drain. If you see a lot of dirt and debris when draining, I would buy new fluid. If clean, reuse it.

When the pump on my International Harvester wore out, International offered factory rebuilts. I believe my pump was from Cessna and Cessna rebuilt it. I ordered the rebuilt pump, when it came in, I took my old one off and took it to dealer. We traded pumps and I paid something like less than half for a new pump. I was only "down" a matter of a few hours. So explore having yours rebuilt for sure, even if you have to wait for it to be rebuilt.

 

[lilburr]

Is there an equal to Hy-gard hyd fluid ? Quatrol is also listed in the manual but I cant find it on the 'net. My JD dealer is 60 mile roundtrip and wonder if I can get by with a shelf brand fluid. Hy-gard is ~ $80 for a five gallon bucket (as opposed to ~ $45).

On this first change, I went with a common brand (type 303) that listed JD 303 on bucket as equals but Hy-gard may not be '303', I dont know.

Photos are showing screen, before and after cleaning. and also location of 'screen' under the left side along with the two buckets of used fluid that I'll try to screen and re-use (for cycling purposes only). It appears a little thick but not 'jelly' like yer description earlier in this topic. After cycling for a short test, I'll change out again to check the screen and re-clean. I dont wanna use the new fluid until I clean out this system.