850 with 3 point problem

[wolftree]

Yes, the two photos of filter screen says your fluid was dirty.

If that goop in orange bucket came out of your tractor, DO NOT put it back in for any reason, that is nasty.

The $45 shelf brand fluid will be fine as long as it says for John Deere.

 

[lilburr]

OK, I changed out the hyd fluids and cleaned the screen. I contacted our local oil company, a company that deals with oils, blends, etc; they cross-referenced a hydraulic fluid equal to JD Hy-gard (in specs) with a MUCH better price. and the action is much more normal and responsive. I still am fighting it a little (I think my 6 ft is too much) but the 3pt seems more responsive.

A note about buying used equipment: as suggested here, purchase an owners manual and learn about the piece. Before, I have never considered a warm-up period for hyd fluids. or knew the function of the knob (under seat) or alotta other stuff on this simple little unit, but important stuff for the proper operation. Hopefully, I didnt mess around and overheat my hyd pump (by jacking around with knobs and valves) or something else stupid.

I think it was a clogged hyd system. and I'll keep you posted after a few days use.

Thanks yall.

 

[lilburr]

My three point problems seems to have been corrected with a second flush of the fluid, second screen cleaning, and proper fluid replacement. The three point response is acting like I expect it now that I have also tweaked the two adjustment knobs under the seat.

Now, just yesterday, it started blowing coolant out the overflow tank as I was working it, for less than an hour. According to the temp gauge (not JD factory gauge), all was good at ~150. (I reckon this just shows me how worthless the temp gauge set-up is.) I quit the work but continued up the hill to the barn. It did not smell hot, sounded fine, so I took it the 1,000 feet up the hill to park it. It was losing coolant though, overheating. When I parked it, except for the coolant overflow, tractor seemed OK. and the overflow stopped after cutting off the engine, me thinks. When I got the hood pulled, everything was settled down pretty much.

Coincidentally, this was my first run with 4 (40lb) JD weights hanging on the front, for better traction (on this hilly drive). Already dragging a 6 ft boxblade and adding this weight on the front, I wonder what could have caused the boilover ? Since checking thru the owners man, I operate at ~ 1900-2000 rpm when working the tractor and allow for a warm-up period before actual use. Unless its a little touch-up, I am dragging down the hill and not up the hill.

Any ideas on this ? Also, does this tractor, JD850, need a thermostat or can I take it out and run it ?

 

[Labrat]

The T stat should be a 160° so 150° on the gauge is normal (providing it's working) Flush the radiator fins with a garden hose, Make sure the fan belt is tight and you can remove the T stat for testing. see if it still burps under load. If so run it with the T stat out and the cap off and see if it's circulating coolant.

 

[knotweed]

I have the Yanmar 1610D which is a close relation to the JD 750. My issues were the exact same as yours. First, the 3 point got slow and eventually quit working. I had recently changed the hydro fluid and cleaned the screen so I eliminated this as the problem source. It turned out to be the valve under the seat had worn seals. A replacement fixed it. Next, it started overheating. I read on TBN that Cascade dish washing powder was a good radiator flush. (about a half cup mixed with water poured into the radiator). Lots of rust and debris came out after about a 4 day flush. Temperature back to normal.

 

[lilburr]

Looks like I'm gonna flush my cooling system and change out the 'stat. I have not yet removed the thermostat but am wondering where to find the replacement without having to go out to the JD parts counter. Manual specs a 160F but nothing else. I have seen an alternative parts house here (than JD) but did not bookmark it, can you list it again ? Can NAPA or another type parts house replace with a sorta generic thermostat ?

 

[wolftree]

Try just flushing the system first. You have 20+ years of crud in the radiator and engine block.

I will not swear to it it, but a 160 degree Napa thermostat should fit and work perfectly. Replace your radiator cap as well. Actually, I would replace the radiator cap first. Change it out as you add radiator flush, run it a few days, then drain cooling system.

Is there a coolant drain on the engine block as well? If so, drain it also to get as much old coolant and crud out as you can.

 

[lilburr]

T.

Is there a coolant drain on the engine block as well? If so, drain it also to get as much old coolant and crud out as you can.

I wonder about that block plug also. Directly above the ID 'label' on left side of block is a bolt of some sort. Anybody know where the block plug is located ?

 

[wolftree]

Is the bolt by the ID label square headed? If so, it is the block drain. After running the coolant flush a few days, drain both the radiator and the engine block.

Antifreeze is poisinous to animals, so be carefull. Do not leave any puddles on the ground.

 

[lilburr]

OK, I'm still working with this 850 and the 'overheating'. According to the temp gauge, it is not reaching a boiling point (at the stat anyway) so it is not boiling over I guess, but spewing coolant.

So I've got this: no oil / fuel in coolant, no bubbling out of cap, dipstick is clean oil (although hot to grab), no apparent or obvious leaks or sounds, temp gauge does not get over 175 or so (160 stat installed), system flushed and replaced with antifreeze, new rad cap, stat, ever thing seems to be in order.

After no more than thirty minutes of running, it starts spewing coolant out of the overflow canister. I wonder if the tractor just does not want a full cooling system to operate. Im fixin to let it heat up, spew out, and cool; and not top it off, just work with what level coolant it holds down. Friend suggests an air bubble in system and will have to work itself out.

anybody got something on this ?