90, 135, 175 ??? What PSI do I need?

RobertN · Feb 6, 2004

When you get your compressor, make sure you can easily drain the water from it. My old 20gal compressor had rusted out, even though I tried to keep it drained. Problem was, that little petcock was hard to get to, and was placed where spiders and other ickies hung out.

So, I did like my dentist... I saw him drain his compressor one day.

Before I got my new 60gal upright in place, I leaned it back, and pulled the petcock from the bottom of the tank, where it was impossible to get to. I put an elbow in it's place. I put a piece of 3/8" pipe coming off the elbow, facing towards the side where I would have access. On the end of the pipe, I placed an air nozzle. I set it where it is out of the way and won't get accidently bumped.

Now, when I finish doodling in the garage, I just put the tip of my shoe in the ari nozzle lever. Press down lightly, and blow any moisture out of the tank. Cost a whole $5 or so for the pieces.

GaryM · Feb 6, 2004

That's a great idea! Almost as good as an automatic drain and a lot cheaper I'm sure.

Henro · Feb 7, 2004

Hi again, everyone!

I have been trying to balance cost vs usefullness [as applied to my specific needs] on this compressor purchase. I had read some previous threads and made a decision pretty quick to steer clear of oil less compressors.

Bird, funny, but that link did not work for me either last night, so I edited it out of that post...then later it did work... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Anyway it wasn't needed as I had copied the details into the post anyway.

I took a look at the Puma unit you mentioned. It probably is a little better than the CH, but in the end the CH unit won my decision, because it has a 135 psi rating, while the Puma is 115 psi. In the past I had wished for more pressure to break free nuts with my impact wrench, so 135 seemed desirable.

Also, while I did not ask, that model was not in the catalog which offered free shipping. Maybe everything they sell has free shipping, I don't know...

I really do prefer the V type to the in-line compressors! Oh well... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

RobertN, that sounds like a great idea. I was going to pipe in a ball valve, but a push with the foot sounds like it would be much more convenient!

Looks like that compressor is on back order and may not get here for 3 weeks or so. I don't care anyway...that will give the sheet of ice on the driveway time to disappear...

Thanks again for all the help!

BIGUN · Feb 7, 2004

Your post got me to thinking how it had been a while since I had drained my 60 gal upright for the same reasons you mentioned. So today I decided to take care of that and I was surprised to get about a quart of water out of the tank. Didn't expect that much. I am going to install a drain like you described so I won’t have an excuse to ignore it any longer. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

tomnky · Feb 8, 2004

I hope You have better Luck with Yours than I did .After 18 months of limited use it began to trip a 20 amp breaker intermittently.

I have had it to two motor repair shops that said nothing was wrong other than a 33 amp in rush on start up.

They have a capacitor start/run General Electric motor. and will cost to the tune of $191.00 from Sears as it is an OEM motor because of the shaft design for direct drive!

The run capacitor was manufactured by Cambridge Capacitors , which is made in England with no distributors in the USA.

A close(in physical size) will cost You close to $40.00 and the only place I could find one was from Allied Electronics in Fort Worth, Texas

It will be my last one ever From Sears!

BIGUN · Feb 8, 2004

If I was going to buy a Craftsman air compressor it would be like the one in the following link, not the direct drive oil-free type.
Craftsman

But instead of buying this air compressor from Sears, I would buy the same thing (Porter Cable) elsewhere for considerably less money. Looks like Sears has set the pressure cutoff up to 150psi verses 135psi on the PC.

Porter Cable

5030 · Feb 8, 2004

Bill:

For my shop and my air tools I bought (2) CH 5 horsepower 20 gallon horizontal compressors at TSC (Tough S**t Charlie's). I re-wired the motors for 220 volt and then set the cut off switches so that one compressor cuts out a little ahead of the other one. If I am using a die grinder or a mist cooling unit, only one compressor runs because of the reduced cfm demand. If I am using the sandblaster or my 3/4" impact, both compressors will kick in.

I like the small horizontal compressor as they fit right under my workbench whereas the large vertical type take up precious room in the shop. Actually, most of the time, I only power one compressor.

I also plumbed my shop air in plastic. I used schedule 60 solvent weld tubing, 3/4" for the main runs and 1/2" for the feeder lines. The nice thing about plastic is that you get no rust or scale from inside the pipe. An added plus is it's about 1/4 the cost of black iron pipe and you don't have to thread it.

I made a manifold for the 2 compressors from 3/4" plastic and used 1 wire hydraulic hose to join the compressors to the manifold. About the only point I get any condensation is at the compressor drains. I have water separators in front of my in-line oilers and I never notice any water in them.

I bough both compressors on sale at TSC about 2 years ago. They are single stage 2 cylinder oil bath units and I believe I paid about $600.00 for them. The complete shop with all lines, electrical, oilers and separators was about $1500.00.

The 5 horsepower CH units are rated at 10CFM each. That's 20 total CFM for both. That's more than you'd get from a large vertical unit and if you need a lesser CFM, you run one and slow your electric meter down somewhat. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I think 90 psi., would be fine for spray painting or an air greaser as well as an air hose blower. Most air tools like my IR impact wrench are rated at 135psi., maximum My die grinder is rated at 90psi., and my mist coolers are rated at 90psi., too. 175 psi., would be for a commercial unit where you's encounter long runs of supply lines and many branch lines. Remember, the more you raise the psi from ambient, the more heat you generate. Consequently, the more moisture you generate too. I'd think, for home shop use, 135 psi., would be ideal. I considered going to 175 psi., but at that compression, I would have needed a chiller unit to remove that air borne moisture or the moisture would have destroyed my air tools.

tomnky · Feb 8, 2004

You do know that Devilbiss makes them for Porter-Cable and Sears don't You?

I think It all depends on the company Specs. as to what You get /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

BIGUN · Feb 8, 2004

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You do know that Devilbiss makes them for Porter-Cable and Sears don't You?

I think It all depends on the company Specs. as to what You get /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

Yes, now that you mention it, I do recall coming across that fact when I was looking to buy my compressor. The Craftsman and the Porter-Cable are the only ones I ever found in my area made by them though. They used to be pretty much identical, but they are slightly different now. At the time Lowe’s carried the PC and it was $100 cheaper than the Craftsman plus they had 10% off for using their credit card. I do like this compressor. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

tomnky · Feb 8, 2004

Yes and the larger models of Porter-Cable are nice to!

Tractor Supply handles Ingersoll-Rand Now and not at a bad Price if You want a single-stage Compressor.

Henro Check Out TSC............I think You will be surprised at what they offer now. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif