dgeesaman (David
), absolutely! and I like the way you worded it. :thumbsup: ("J" in and return on the same path)
Even on the finest tool grinding equipment there's a feel that you acquire as to wheel speed across the ground surface, etc. That
inevitable 'flex in the grinder arm' can work for or against you. Minimal contact with the wheel (always at full depth in the gullet) keeps the tooth cool and preserves the 'rake' angle that is
easily compromised if the wheel touches the least bit on the upstroke.
Even the best machines will wear eventually, so what works on the cheap sharpeners can also be applied to them as time goes by and a bit of 'slop' accumulates.
btw, what was said earlier in regard to o'heating teeth when sharpening is good general info. Low alloy steels (mild, 'carbon', bedrail, etc) will lose their temper when heated til they turn blue. (& when not work-hardened by heating :mur
This is something to avoid for sure, but 'tool steel' alloys ('High Speed Steel' that drills are made of, etc) suffer much less 'softening' when heated just enuf to turn blue-ish. Most of us would never notice any difference if a bit of tinge shows up atop
chainsaw teeth, so don't toss 'em till you try your 'grind' on the job. (Two 'light' circuits around trumps one heavy one if you need to remove a lot of stock to 'clean up')
Also, if lowering the depth gauges comes easily enough (min .040-.060" below tooth crown) my rule of thumb for discarding a chain is when the teeth tops are shorter than they are wide. And
don't use a chainsaw to cut tree roots if a 'recip' saw can be used instead. Dulling by grit slows you down less, and blades are cheap compared to chains or the time & $$ to sharpen them.
Heh, I was all set to grub brush today, but now I feel like 'tipping over' a few unwelcome trees. (too many chores, to little time) tog (jon)
