OP
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Notice I did not bend any steel to form the shovel, I just welded on some steel on the sides at an angle.
A "Shovel Ready" project!
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Notice I did not bend any steel to form the shovel, I just welded on some steel on the sides at an angle.
Catoosa
Bronze Member
Question, what made you decide to use pipe (round stock) on the bucket edge rather then just fabricating your slot to fit?
Hope I made the question clear.
Hope I made the question clear.
OP
k0ua
Epic Contributor
You have to have something to bear on its entire width to the bucket. I would use solid bar next time.
Catoosa
Bronze Member
Thanks for the reply, I have a 3/4 inch solid round bar I could cut a piece off of but not sure I worded the question properly. Wondering why you decided to use round stock rather than flat stock for the bucket lip. Hope that makes what I am asking clearer.
OP
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Oh,.. uh that is a good question. I hadn't really thought about that. I suppose there isn't really a good reason.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Just came across this discussion.
Funny enough but couple years ago I made a pick to go along with your shovel.
We needed to make a trench is what was a well compacted road base and I knew that the FEL would not cope.
I used an old truck axle as the pick blade and basically attached it to the FEL in a glorified HD clamp on big ugly tooth.
Worked like a charm, trenched that compacted road bed as expected but also proved an asset to uproot small saplings without dragging clumps of sod.
I'd simply drive the big tooth under the root ball and pry the sapling free.
Rotating the bucket with heel on the ground creates great tearing forces.
Funny enough but couple years ago I made a pick to go along with your shovel.
We needed to make a trench is what was a well compacted road base and I knew that the FEL would not cope.
I used an old truck axle as the pick blade and basically attached it to the FEL in a glorified HD clamp on big ugly tooth.
Worked like a charm, trenched that compacted road bed as expected but also proved an asset to uproot small saplings without dragging clumps of sod.
I'd simply drive the big tooth under the root ball and pry the sapling free.
Rotating the bucket with heel on the ground creates great tearing forces.
OP
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Interesting..Do you have any pix of it in action?
OP
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Last year I dug a couple hundred feet of drainage ditches in more rock than soil ground. Worked great. Still going strong. Not something you need every day, but it sure is great to have when you do. You learn pretty quick how to get into a rhythm when operating the joystick to dig. Then it becomes almost totally "automatic" without thinking.
Diggin It
Super Star Member
Followed the bouncing link ......
It seems you're pushing into the dirt and lifting? Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary? Can you drive forward with it contacting the ground to scoop a ditch? Can you install it backwards so you can tip the bucket edges straight down and drag a ditch backwards?
That's why I want one for the BH, so I can use the same type motion as I would to dig, but with a narrower and rounded result.
It seems you're pushing into the dirt and lifting? Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary? Can you drive forward with it contacting the ground to scoop a ditch? Can you install it backwards so you can tip the bucket edges straight down and drag a ditch backwards?
That's why I want one for the BH, so I can use the same type motion as I would to dig, but with a narrower and rounded result.
OP
k0ua
Epic Contributor
That would be fine on a backhoe bucket I would think as you are curling for putting pressure in the way the bucket is designed to work. See my other answers in red above.