A suggestion from the Pros, please.

[NCMau]

For the past 20 some years, I have been using an old Craftsman 240A AC welder which I converted to an AC/DC unit. For the most, my welding projects have been satisfactory, but the welds would never win a beauty contest.
After reading some posts in this forum, I realize that there is whole lot more to welding that I know, so I decided to ask for your wisdom on this project.
The project consist of extending the loader bucket tooth bar about 7" and welding one extra tooth to the bar. The bar is 1/2" x 4" and the tooth shank is 1-1/2" square.
I have a supply of 1/8" 6013 and 5/32" 7018 sticks. I have been using the 1/8" with 80/90 DCA with satisfactory results.
What is your suggestions on the rules of engagement and how much of bevel grind should I have?

 

[kennyd]

I asked a moderator to move this to the Welding forum for you

 

[Gizmo2]

Added two teeth to my backhoe bucket this past summer. Good old 7014, one pass each side than hit it hard with the 7018. Bevel, what bevel?
I would ask how big is your tractor?

OOPS, Just read the OP again, No Pro here!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/171608-46-bh-3-teeth.html

 

[mrmikey]

I presume the 1/2 x 4 flat is going to be butted to the exixting bar? If you want to go by normal standards the included angle is 60ｰ >< with a 1/8" or so nose.
If it were me and not having to go x-ray quality I'd use a mini grinder and grind the sharp corner off both pieces both sides and leave a good 1/8 to 3/16 gap so you can get good penetration. Run a good hot 6011 (preferably) or 6013 so you can get good penetration, grind out the back side and fill/cap with the 7018. Tilt the bucket so you're travelling uphill slightly, that'll keep the slag behind you and alternate from each side, if you don't it'll pull up.
If you're comfortable doing vertical, that would be even better as it allows you to get more penetration and gives you better visiblility.
The 1 1/2 shanks, if you've got 5/32 7018 a good single pass should do you, it'll give you a 1/4" fillett at least. Run a torch over them just to take the chill off before you start.....Mike

 

[jayste]

I presume the 1/2 x 4 flat is going to be butted to the exixting bar? If you want to go by normal standards the included angle is 60ｰ >< with a 1/8" or so nose.
If it were me and not having to go x-ray quality I'd use a mini grinder and grind the sharp corner off both pieces both sides and leave a good 1/8 to 3/16 gap so you can get good penetration. Run a good hot 6011 (preferably) or 6013 so you can get good penetration, grind out the back side and fill/cap with the 7018. Tilt the bucket so you're travelling uphill slightly, that'll keep the slag behind you and alternate from each side, if you don't it'll pull up.
If you're comfortable doing vertical, that would be even better as it allows you to get more penetration and gives you better visiblility.
The 1 1/2 shanks, if you've got 5/32 7018 a good single pass should do you, it'll give you a 1/4" fillett at least. Run a torch over them just to take the chill off before you start.....Mike

I wouldn't say I'm a pro by any form but Mike pretty much has it going on here.

 

[mrmikey]

I'm not a pro neither but I play one in real life LOL. Been a welder for.....crap over 35 years. Thanks guys, you just made me realize I'm old :laughing: .....Mike

 

[NCMau]

Added two teeth to my backhoe bucket this past summer. Good old 7014, one pass each side than hit it hard with the 7018. Bevel, what bevel?
I would ask how big is your tractor?

OOPS, Just read the OP again, No Pro here!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/171608-46-bh-3-teeth.html

Good, I am in the right group.
The tractor is an old iron 35HP with 66' BUCKET

 

[NCMau]

I'm not a pro neither but I play one in real life LOL. Been a welder for.....crap over 35 years. Thanks guys, you just made me realize I'm old :laughing: .....Mike

Thanks for the detailed direction Mike. Now I have a good idea how to approach it.
No, I don't do verticals. I usually go through lot of troubles to weld horizontal.
Run the torch to take the chill off is a pretty good tip.... Maury

 

[mrmikey]

Run the torch to take the chill off is a pretty good tip

Theory is it allows the metal, base and weld, to cool slower allowing the hydrogen time to release preventing underbead cracking. (Sometimes I amaze myself, remembered that from trade school LOL)

I usually go through lot of troubles to weld horizontal.

I find horizontal the worst, vertical, flat, overhead and horizontal from easiest to most difficult. Post pics when you're done.....Mike

 

[Gizmo2]

Theory is it allows the metal, base and weld, to cool slower allowing the hydrogen time to release preventing underbead cracking. (Sometimes I amaze myself, remembered that from trade school LOL)

I like to stick the rod for a few seconds also, it's nicer and easier to start out with a warm rod.