A timber frame cabin memoir

dstig1 · Feb 1, 2024

Always listen to Eddie...

caver · Feb 10, 2024

2/3rds of the joists installed. All that's left is the L shaped opening for the stairway will will require a standing post. There's a footing under the slab for it. The drawings state 4x4 but I will use a 6x8 beam that was replaced from the factory. the reason being is they anticipated 2-2.5" flanges and mine are 3.5" so when I double them up it's 7" AND an LVL comes in at the side. The last 22' joist was cut short at the plant by 3" so the lumber yard sent me a replacement they had in the yard someone else had ordered and not used. The kid shows up yesterday and it's 12" joist. The owner forgot mine were 14" I-joists. My big irritation is this roofer that seems to have flaked out on me. Our last conversation made no sense unless the guy was hit in the head with a 2x4 and has amnesia. A week later (last night) I texted to say any update?.....crickets. I may end up going with a shingle roof if I can't find another standing seam metal roofer. It's been with synthetic underlayment since mid November and storm season will be here before you know it. I will call the lumber yard owner early next week to see what kind of suggestions he has. he's been pretty helpful so far.

caver · Mar 5, 2024

Other than one little spot I have to put in a header and some short joists, I'm done with the joists.
The last picture there will be an LVL on the left side of that post to the end of the doubled I-joist.

Questions: Is Advantech subfloor really that good? I see regular T&G plywood 23/32 for a cheaper price. I even looked at some of the cheaper OSB subfloor stuff but reviews all over the place. Before I lay this stuff down I need to insulate the north and south cavity between the rim joist and last I-joist. I left just enough gap to get my hand up in the there as I knew I would likely run wire up in one to two spots. I was even looking at a froth-pack but that stuff is pricey. I loose my rental in about three weeks so trying to take short breaks back in my current home. After that it is staying in my camper on site if I want to work there. I do plan to stop building and spend some weeks on getting my house on the market.

EddieWalker · Mar 5, 2024

Advantech is better then anything else.

How far apart are your floor joists? 3/4 inch tongue and groove plywood was been the standard on joists 24 inches on center for decades. Glue it and screw it down and you should be fine. If your joists are closer then 24 inches, I wouldn't hesitate to use 3/4 T&G Plywood.

I think PL construction glue is better then Liquid Nails.

caver · Mar 5, 2024

16" centers (or less). Since they didn't provide the floor, the plans were limited other than showing a few details for the stairway layout opening. They just specify 3/4" T&G. They also assumed a joist with 2-1/2 flanges. Mine are 3-1/2" flanges. The floor drawing had one joist landing right at one of the bent posts. With the juggling around of wider flanges my frame maker suggested sticking with the dimensions on the stairway opening. Well it worked out I could land one joist right next to the post yet still keep my 16OC or less. The downside was regardless of how I lay the plywood down some sheets will have to be cut a few inches short to land on center.

dstig1 · Mar 5, 2024

One of the biggest advantages of Advantech is the moisture resistance. It can get rained on quite a bit, especially compared to the cheap stuff and not swell. Remember to gap the edges per the mfg spec! In a DIY situation, time is not your friend as things take forever compared to a pro crew and exposure to the weather is basically a given. Use the good stuff.

caver · Mar 6, 2024

Agreed dstig as this thing is taking longer than I anticipated. I did every joist solo. I had a buddy that was coming over to help for a day but they sent 4 of the wrong size Simpson Strong Tie hangers. The replacements would have worked but looked less stout. My timber frame company's engineer said they would work but he would go with heavier ones so I ordered them online and waited.

civilian · Mar 6, 2024

When my 3/4" OSB T&G was laid with glue and screw, I then spread Thompsons water seal over it to help protect ir from rain. Just a thought. Jon

geteh · Mar 11, 2024

caver said:
My first basement contractor never returned my call or email. 5 days later he called me back. Turns out he had sold his business earlier that day. But, he was very helpful and recommended a former employee who went out on his own. I still don't know who bought his business because i thought the former co-worker bought his business. I misunderstood him when I called they guy he recommended. Reading between the lines I could tell he wasn't crazy when I said a 10' wall. He's busy with a project well over an hour away and said he could give no commitment until possibly early winter. he said call back in 3-4 weeks. I took that as a I don't want to run customers off but not crazy about the job right now. There are not many options in the rural area but I have another contractor I will call. I have also talked to my project manager about possibly doing an 8' wall with the I-joists on top of the wall like more traditional framing. Not a big deal and doesn't weird the contractors out as easy. When my dad had his forms they were a type of aluminum. All panels cast as 2'x2'. Dad had maybe 3/4 of his forms set up for 8' and the rest in 4' I imagine most guys have something like a Symons form Marsville Junk Removal. I do save money with an 8' wall and if done right would have enough room under the slab for a 2" insulated panel.

I have been looking for some good books on the internet for the very subject of timber framing / design.

caver · Mar 11, 2024

I picked up some book at Tractor Supply discounted. I think it is Learn to Timber Frame. These folks give classes Shelter Institute - Home

caver · Mar 26, 2024

I just got a quote from the lumber yard for Andersen windows 100 series(?) Just over 12K yikes. I knew it would be high but not that high. So I was thinking of removing the rear corner windows completely and then replacing the 2 center trapezoid windows with 2 standard opening windows. It saves me a few grand. Nobody will ever see the back of the house is it goes steeply up a hill. My other issue is he thought they could mate a trapezoid with an opening window. It sounds like what he thought they could do, they can't. The top half of the front of the house is the same but will leave it alone as everyone will see it and it's part of the house look. If I go the route I'm suggesting I will have two side by side windows I can open for natural air flow low to high. There is a loft floor in the upper 2/3's. I can open first floor windows on a nice day and get some ventilation.

ponytug · Mar 26, 2024

I think that you will be much happier with windows that open upstairs in back. Better air flow. I would go crank open for the same reason, twice the area.

All the best, Peter

Carl_NH · Mar 26, 2024

Agreed on replacing the back windows with standard units. Also, with Anderson, I found the big box stores will beat the lumber yards by a large margin especially if you get into the 400 series. Also have them quote the whole house exterior doors and windows for a better deal.

Anderson are 100-200-400 then A Series architectural windows. If you stick with standard sizes there isn't a huge delta in cost - its when you get into customs like you have/had it gets pricey very quickly .

So stick with one size/opening as much as possible as it really saves cost in framing, trim, screens, and all around much easier.

caver · Mar 27, 2024

Carl_NH said:
Agreed on replacing the back windows with standard units. Also, with Anderson, I found the big box stores will beat the lumber yards by a large margin especially if you get into the 400 series. Also have them quote the whole house exterior doors and windows for a better deal.

Anderson are 100-200-400 then A Series architectural windows. If you stick with standard sizes there isn't a huge delta in cost - its when you get into customs like you have/had it gets pricey very quickly .

So stick with one size/opening as much as possible as it really saves cost in framing, trim, screens, and all around much easier.

Small town lumber yard has beat the DIY stores like Advantech OSB for example but worth a shot.
I went to a bigger town to talk to Meeks lumber (chain). I thought he would quote the 3 exterior doors too but not sure why he didn't. Also the place where I got my OSB is closer (smaller town) and I recall he is an Andersen dealer. My dad always put Pella in the two homes my parents built. I've seen cheap windows like in the neighbors cabin i was renting until today. Latches seem wonky...plastic screen install tabs break off easily. The young guy at Meeks did say my sizes were standard so just frame it out to those dimensions. The only goof with my timber frame designer and the window guy was using a 38x48 all around but not accounting for bath/kitchen backsplashes.

caver · Mar 27, 2024

ponytug said:
I think that you will be much happier with windows that open upstairs in back. Better air flow. I would go crank open for the same reason, twice the area.

All the best, Peter

I like the crank out idea for the loft ones. I would have never thought of that.

ponytug · Mar 27, 2024

caver said:
I like the crank out idea for the loft ones. I would have never thought of that.

Years of living in non-AC homes! Having two stories, or more, can make a pretty strong chimney effect even if there isn't much wind.

All the best,

Peter

Carl_NH · Mar 28, 2024

Yes the devll's in the details - my neighbor/friend is a builder did a 1.2M build last year and the architect did the same thing in BR and kitchen so this seems to happen a lot!

Just frame it up and you will be fine - and I agree, a good window is worth the $ - Pella/Anderson etc. but dont overlook other good windows like Simonton etc. too.

Seems most basic windows are around $400 then go up from there. So if you have 20-25 windows in a house its 8-12K minimum.

caver · May 9, 2024

Last Thursday they started on the roof. I went with shingles after the initial standing seam guy flaked on me. The color is Chateau Green which is hard to see due to the washed out sky fighting my cell camera. First day was one guy on a ladder. Later that day we agreed on renting a telehandler since the lumber yard could not crane the shingles up. The truck kept sliding on the greasy clay. F$%^, more money to spend. The next day a helper showed up and they actually finished by about 6pm. The initial worker was the BIL of the business owner. Younger guys maybe 30's both originally from Ukraine. Both had just a hint of an accent. The boss man said he could get me a couple framers with a week or two heads up. I was looking forward to the framing initially but might push the easy button for part of the exterior walls. I have been focused on my current home de-hoarding and selling junk. I will sell it as a fixer upper. I should have done that years ago. My rental house (neighbor) well she came back home for a few weeks and is now renting it to someone else. Fine by me as it saves me about $1000 while I focus on other things.

caver · Oct 23, 2024

Not much progress on cabin this summer if at all. First wall put in between bents. Trying to fit something between bents that are not 100% perfect made me do a little trial fit. I then left out the window studs and toenailed/screwed all that into place. I want to seal off the basement and have talked to my lumber yard guy about ordering my two awning windows and the basement walkout door. Since it's a 10" wall he suggested opening outwards so the door can open beyond 90*. I guess I could put it on the inside but then I have more chance of heavy rain intrusion. There is nothing above this door in the future except a deck. Drawing was quick and dirty. I also thought about a screen door but should get adequate ventilation on nice days via the awning windows.