A timber frame cabin memoir

[caver]

Long way (120+ miles) until I can get my fixer upper on the market and rent over there. I knocked off a day early. The Asian Beetles were just crazy yesterday. I vacuumed maybe 40+ last night that got in my camper. I had easily a dozen more stragglers. Cool fall weather followed by a warm few days really brings them out. last year I don't recall them being an issue just the gnats.

 

[ponytug]

@caver what is an Asian beetle in your neck of the woods? Color me curious...

I love the house build.

All the best,

Peter

 

[dstig1]

Asian ladybugs, I assume. We get them here to varying degrees every year.

 

[caver]

Harmonia axyridis - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[EddieWalker]

120 miles each way is a long drive. I bet it becomes challenging to go there when you're tired or had a long week.

My deer blind is full of Asian beetles right now. Hopefully we get a good freeze and they all die. I wouldn't be surprised if there are a thousand of them in there. They literally cover every wall and the ceiling. Once they all die off, I sweep them off of the walls, and then into a bucket once they are all on the floor. It's not hard, but there is a smell that I don't care for.

 

[caver]

I was renting my neighbors cabin who was out of the country but felt this summer I might not use it for several months. I also assumed she was coming back. So, she rented to a young girl. It was real handy to drive over for 4-6 days do some work then come back to my regular house for a break. Rumor has it she's coming back in the spring.

 

[caver]

I'm camping here at the moment. It was taking me forever to frame a wall partially and then make it fit between timber frames top and sides. So recently I talked to my project guy from the manufacturer. He said they actually just build the walls stick by stick in place. The employees have some experience building them and they have at least one contractor who specializes in these kits they can hook you up with. Nail your top plate to the bottom of a beam where applicable. Nail sill plate and toenail the sticks in. I suck at toenailing. Often I can't get the nail gun at the right angle etc. Sometimes I pre-drill a hole and use my palm nailer with a 16D nail. Other situations I've been using GRK #10x3-1/8 RSS screws. They are kinda pricey and was wondering if there is a cheaper alternative? These have a flat head and looked at some online with more of a bugle head. I usually pre-drill the screw holes too. I found some #9 x3" made by either GRK or Grip Rite. No codes here so can use what I want.

This is how I'm making my headers (picture). Using foam board to take up some space so it doesn't need as much foam. I nail the top on after filling. (on restricted internet so pictures keep failing to upload)

 

[dstig1]

That is how I built all my interior walls and was going to suggest it. It is hard to tilt up a wall between a floor and a joist as it jams tight due to the angle of the wall as you get close the tipping it in place. Very hard to do. A laser level and a laser plumb bob/level are a big help here.

But seriously learn to toe nail. It's not that hard with a gun, once you get the position figured out. Might be Youtube videos, or grab a few short pieces to practice. Yeah you will miss on occasion as you don't do it all day every day but so what? Add another nail and be done. Since these are non-load bearing walls, it is not that critical. More important to get he spacing right for drywall and such.

 

[JJT]

When I built my timber frame house I did stick built 2x6 exterior walls outside the timber frame. The entire timber frame is showing on the inside of my house.

My house was built from the inside working out. 1) timber frame goes up, 2) house gets sheeted with knotty pine, 1x6 for walls and 2x6 for floors and ceilings, 3) 2x6 walls go up, one 2x at a time, 3) wire/insulate/plumb, all in the 2x6 walls, 4) exterior sheeting, 5) windows/sky lights, 6) siding/roofing.

Confusing, yes, to a normal 2x framer. Timber framing is worth the time and effort.

 

[caver]

showing on the inside of my house.

That's the way mine is. They have you cheat the walls past the timber 1.5" so timbers are exposed even after drywall or wood finish. Yet the 2x6 will be flush with the outside of foundation. Then the sheathing can overlap flush with the foundation before the wood siding goes on.

I have to install 2x6 nailers between studs every 2' on center. This is alos to provide a good nailing for the siding besides just the sheathing.

 

[ponytug]

That's the way mine is. They have you cheat the walls past the timber 1.5" so timbers are exposed even after drywall or wood finish. Yet the 2x6 will be flush with the outside of foundation. Then the sheathing can overlap flush with the foundation before the wood siding goes on.

I have to install 2x6 nailers between studs every 2' on center. This is alos to provide a good nailing for the siding besides just the sheathing.

I could be wrong, but I think that @JJT put the entire 2x6 outside the timber. That way it is a sheath holding insulation, wiring and pipes. Much easier than trying to fit the walls inside the timber frame. I did the inside timber frame once. I will not ever do that again, as each stick needs pretty careful measurement.

All the best,

Peter

 

[civilian]

A trick I was told for tipping up floor built walls when ceiling and floor in place and no room to tip. Nail additional top plate in place on the ceiling. Build wall to 1 1/2" shorter height. Tip up, slide under extra top plate, level and secure top and bottom. Jon

 

[caver]

The building in place has made it easier other than the toenailing. I do measure each individual stud and fit it tight. Cut again if too tight etc. A little time consuming but has made me happy. It has also made the building windows in place a little easier. I neglected to take a picture after I had the deck door framed and had started on the last window. I've been looking online as to how to frame in triangle/trapezoid windows. I'll holler at the timber frame folks but was curious.The red box drawn in is me depicting a beam in the wall that the upper section will be framed off of. There's a very strong chance I will hire some folks for a couple days to frame this whole upper part in but I want to pay close attention. I'll make sure they get angles correctly as that is not a common window style. One online suggestion I read was frame it like a box window then fill in around it. Makes sens as your loads are getting transferred in a more proper fashion.

 

[civilian]

For toenailing, cut a spacer block to go between new stud and the prior one. Then drive your toenails on side of stud opposite of spacer block. Remove spacer block, and toenail that side of stud. Do bottom of stud first, then top of stud. Jon

 

[ponytug]

@caver I have lived in a few homes with similar trapezoidal windows. While all of those were framed in with wood trim, I would suggest finding a nearby window manufacturer to make them for you in a double or triple pane. You will get a one piece window that will be more rigid and easier to frame and seal into the house. The wood built in windows are, in my experience prone to leaking, especially if not caulked in place, and a lack of a continuous seal leads to leaks and rot at a really inaccessible point on the house. Plus, once a little moisture gets into the space between the windows, it hangs around and the semi-frosted/fogged window look isn't a great one in my book.

I would a boom lift to put them in. They will be heavy and awkward.

All the best,

Peter

 

[caver]

I will order windows from Andersen via a lumber yard. I got a quote sometime back.

 

[dstig1]

You really shouldn't need headers on the gable wall as it is non load bearing, in almost all cases. Especially with a timber frame. The timbers should be carrying the loads, not the infill framing... Get the specs from Andersen on framing them before you get too far, as they may have some quirks due to the shape.

 

[EddieWalker]

You really shouldn't need headers on the gable wall as it is non load bearing, in almost all cases. Especially with a timber frame. The timbers should be carrying the loads, not the infill framing... Get the specs from Andersen on framing them before you get too far, as they may have some quirks due to the shape.

I agree with this.

For the top angle, just figure out what the framing width needs to be for the windows you are using. Some windows are exactly what they say they are, others are framed that size and actually half an inch smaller. It really depends on what you buy to know what your measurements are.

 

[caver]

I have the RO measurements from the lumber yard quote.

As far as the headers, they are required on the lower section per the timber frame folks. The only difference is if there is a beam like in the picture it only gets one top plate. On the back part it will get two top plates those tie beams are not there due to the loft floor. Any opening above 36" actually gets a 2x10 header. Smaller gets just a 2x6 header. I'm awaiting a response from Legacy on the framing but contacting Andersen might also help.

 

[JJT]

I put headers in all the door and window openings of my timber frame house. Totally unneeded, but the code enforcement officer had no timber frame experience.

100% of the walls in my timber frame house are non load bearing, the timber frame carries all of the load.