A way to isolate the loader control?

adegiulio · Mar 21, 2012

Oh boy, I've really done it this time. So I was outside just now and was turning my enormous compost pile. I had my clamshell bucket open completely, and was using the front edge of the bucket to get under the pile. To do this, I had the bucket in full dump position. As I moved into the pile, the front edge caught on something, which pushed it backward to far. Something popped in the valve connected to the loader (whatever that valve is called, the one that controls the movement of the loader). I fluid was shooting out like a monsoon under the tractor. I shut it down which stopped the flow, but now when I start it again the fluid shoots everywhere.

So my question is this. Is there a way to bypass this valve so that I can actually start the tractor to move it. It's an HST, so I need pressure to move, and this tractor is not in a very convenient spot to repair it.

Thanks for any help.

kebo · Mar 21, 2012

Does your 4310 have a rockshaft valve?? If so, you might be able to close it off completely, which should basically shut off the hydraulic pressure. I'm working under the assumption here that the HST in your tractor is driven by a separate hydraulic pump, so it should not be affected by the rockshaft valve. If you have the manual to your tractor, read up on it and see what it has to say about that. Good luck!

J_J · Mar 21, 2012

If you have a separate implement pump, you could remove the IN hose from the loader valve and remove the PB or TANK hose and connect the IN hose to the PB hose, and if no PB hose, connect to the TANK hose.

You will not have any loader control after doing this. Since the loader valve is broke, you are stuck with a dead loader,. I guess you could chain the tip of the bucket up and skid the bucket as you move the tractor.

beenthere · Mar 21, 2012

You need to find out where the hyd. oil is coming from.
It sounds like you pulled off the return line, but regardless you should find out where and replace or disconnect and plug that line.

I don't follow the other responses, but maybe you do.

robpm · Mar 21, 2012

Adegiulio,

I don't know the 4310 tractor. However I went onto JD's web site which has all the parts listed by model. I have attached a pdf of the SCV valve. There is another one according to s/n as well so this may not be correct.

However if this is correct it looks like the metal hydraulic tubes for the FEL go under the tractor. Could one of those have broken?

Rob

magicheater · Mar 21, 2012

A similar thing happened to me while being overly aggressive on a stump. Luckily I only popped a hose and could start and drive the Tractor without the monsoon. JJ always has good advice.

Zebrafive · Mar 21, 2012

I am thinking if the loader valve is in neutral, there should not be any "monsoon" type leakage even if one of the four steel lines had blown off.

It looks like the valve bolts to something and must have internal oil passages for presssure and return, maybe an O-Ring has blown out?
Or maybe something on the valve has blown, the picture from JDparts did not have a breakdown of the valve parts.

greg_g · Mar 22, 2012

Yeah, I think the first thing to do is get underneath the tractor and determine exactly WHERE the fluid is escaping. Once that's known, it's easier to conclude WHY - and ultimately HOW to fix it.

On mine, I have two separate valves; one for the front loader, one for the rear hydraulics. Each is connected to the joystick, but not simultaneously. I select front or rear with an electric diverter switch on the console. When I select rear, the front is isolated. Not saying that's how your 4310 is configured but - if you have separate valves - just switch to the opposite, and the flow to the loader should stop.

//greg//

J_J · Mar 22, 2012

adegiulio,

What probably happened, is that when you were pushing the bucket , the cyl is locked, and if you hit something, with the tractor weight behind the force, your mechanical leverage generates a spike of hyd fluid which can blow the cyl, hose, fitting or valve .

It sounds like the valve itself maybe cracked, but if the fittings are still good on the IN and OUT hose, then connect those two to isolate the valve, and have a hyd flow path.

If you have a switch to select the front or rear hyd, use that and chain the bucket up.

Let us know the results of your findings.

adegiulio · Mar 22, 2012

Thank you all for the suggestions. Because of the location of the tractor, I didn't dig too much into it. Visual access to that area is completely covered on top and bottom. I walked out there this morning and it looks like I can get my truck back there. I'm just going to put her in neutral, put my friend at the wheel, and tow it back to the house where I have my tools and comfortable place (pricker free) to work. I'll let you know what I find...