A way to isolate the loader control?

[adegiulio]

Oh boy, I've really done it this time. So I was outside just now and was turning my enormous compost pile. I had my clamshell bucket open completely, and was using the front edge of the bucket to get under the pile. To do this, I had the bucket in full dump position. As I moved into the pile, the front edge caught on something, which pushed it backward to far. Something popped in the valve connected to the loader (whatever that valve is called, the one that controls the movement of the loader). I fluid was shooting out like a monsoon under the tractor. I shut it down which stopped the flow, but now when I start it again the fluid shoots everywhere.

So my question is this. Is there a way to bypass this valve so that I can actually start the tractor to move it. It's an HST, so I need pressure to move, and this tractor is not in a very convenient spot to repair it.

Thanks for any help.

 

[kebo]

Does your 4310 have a rockshaft valve?? If so, you might be able to close it off completely, which should basically shut off the hydraulic pressure. I'm working under the assumption here that the HST in your tractor is driven by a separate hydraulic pump, so it should not be affected by the rockshaft valve. If you have the manual to your tractor, read up on it and see what it has to say about that. Good luck!

 

[J_J]

If you have a separate implement pump, you could remove the IN hose from the loader valve and remove the PB or TANK hose and connect the IN hose to the PB hose, and if no PB hose, connect to the TANK hose.

You will not have any loader control after doing this. Since the loader valve is broke, you are stuck with a dead loader,. I guess you could chain the tip of the bucket up and skid the bucket as you move the tractor.

 

[beenthere]

You need to find out where the hyd. oil is coming from.
It sounds like you pulled off the return line, but regardless you should find out where and replace or disconnect and plug that line.

I don't follow the other responses, but maybe you do.

 

[robpm]

Adegiulio,

I don't know the 4310 tractor. However I went onto JD's web site which has all the parts listed by model. I have attached a pdf of the SCV valve. There is another one according to s/n as well so this may not be correct.

However if this is correct it looks like the metal hydraulic tubes for the FEL go under the tractor. Could one of those have broken?

Rob

 

[magicheater]

A similar thing happened to me while being overly aggressive on a stump. Luckily I only popped a hose and could start and drive the Tractor without the monsoon. JJ always has good advice.

 

[Zebrafive]

I am thinking if the loader valve is in neutral, there should not be any "monsoon" type leakage even if one of the four steel lines had blown off.

It looks like the valve bolts to something and must have internal oil passages for presssure and return, maybe an O-Ring has blown out?
Or maybe something on the valve has blown, the picture from JDparts did not have a breakdown of the valve parts.

 

[greg_g]

Yeah, I think the first thing to do is get underneath the tractor and determine exactly WHERE the fluid is escaping. Once that's known, it's easier to conclude WHY - and ultimately HOW to fix it.

On mine, I have two separate valves; one for the front loader, one for the rear hydraulics. Each is connected to the joystick, but not simultaneously. I select front or rear with an electric diverter switch on the console. When I select rear, the front is isolated. Not saying that's how your 4310 is configured but - if you have separate valves - just switch to the opposite, and the flow to the loader should stop.

//greg//

 

[J_J]

adegiulio,

What probably happened, is that when you were pushing the bucket , the cyl is locked, and if you hit something, with the tractor weight behind the force, your mechanical leverage generates a spike of hyd fluid which can blow the cyl, hose, fitting or valve .

It sounds like the valve itself maybe cracked, but if the fittings are still good on the IN and OUT hose, then connect those two to isolate the valve, and have a hyd flow path.

If you have a switch to select the front or rear hyd, use that and chain the bucket up.

Let us know the results of your findings.

 

[adegiulio]

Thank you all for the suggestions. Because of the location of the tractor, I didn't dig too much into it. Visual access to that area is completely covered on top and bottom. I walked out there this morning and it looks like I can get my truck back there. I'm just going to put her in neutral, put my friend at the wheel, and tow it back to the house where I have my tools and comfortable place (pricker free) to work. I'll let you know what I find...

 

[Zebrafive]

I don't have an E-hydro, so I don't know if you can/should tow it at all even in neutral. RESEARCH first

 

[adegiulio]

Well, I got the tractor to a good spot for repair. I still can't see precisely what is wrong or where the leak is originating from. Does anyone have a manual or procedure for removing the shroud that covers up the valves? It looks like it requires removing the seat to get the whole thing off. Looks like the type of job I'd rather have a bit of guidance for

A

 

[beenthere]

Can you see about where the oil is coming (leaking) from?

Is it from underneath the seat?

Yes, remove the seat and the cover if it is coming from under the seat.

Can't be much help if you don't isolate where it is leaking, and if it is a busted hose, or coupling.

What functions do not work......FEL, hydrostatic, 3 ph, steering ???

Are you empty of hydro fluid?

Was there an object under the tractor when you pulled it out?

Pics of the situation would be most helpful at this point.

 

[adegiulio]

I followed the rigid metal tubes that connect to the hydraulic hoses for the loader. They are all solidly connected to the valve or manifold or whatever it is they connect to. The fluid itself appears to be shooting out from behind that. I can't see exactly where from any angle.

 

[lwalsh]

as the valve would be blocked not alowing any flow in the neutral position as you were pushing is it possible that you where pulling the handle as you were grading. I think what likely happened is you may have taken out the large o-ring that acts as a seal between the valve body and the tractor. You may have to remove the wheel to access. Remove the 4 steel lines from the valve, these are banjo bolts with a copper washer on each side. then remove the valve to check the o-ring between the valve and tractor.

 

[adegiulio]

Well, I found the problem. The top of the SCV just blew right off! I know it sounds crazy, but a big chunk of metal blasted off, as opposed to a fitting or a hose blowing. WOW.

 

[beenthere]

That is a WOW for sure.

Would you post a pic from a bit further back so we can see where this broken casting sits?

Is there a matching piece under the broken piece? One mounting bolt between?

I would expect Deere will replace that part for you.

Is this the part that broke? That gold piece laying there is throwing me off.

 

[adegiulio]

Yes that is the part. The tractor is well out of warranty, so I'm not holding my breath on Deere covering the part. I'll certainly press the issue though. The gold part connects my additional hydraulics controller to it's valve (I have a clamshell bucket which this controls)

 

[beenthere]

That addition of the clamshell controller may take it out of replacement by Deere, but it doesn't seem to be a typical failure of good cast parts.
I'd not be surprised if Deere doesn't replace the part at least, so they can inspect the broken part.

 

[adegiulio]

I don't know why it would affect anything. It's a Deere installed option.