Finally found a Tubes N Hoses store in Vancouver WA, and Jason there was real nice and willing to help, but he called all his suppliers and neither he nor anyone he knows can find a source for banjo tube ends of any kind. He did offer that if I took my existing JD hard lines off, we could cut the lines and he could see if he could swage them up to be sleeve around the OD of 1/2" tubing so we could braze them onto new lines. He also said he had sometimes drilled the banjo knuckle out and silver brazed new tubing into the knuckle. The only thing with that is it seems like there wouldn't be much engagement between the tubing and the banjo end to make it very strong. This is not something I want springing a leak.
I am tempted to make my own banjo ends on the lathe. I haven't taken one apart yet, but I don't remember how the inside of the banjo knuckle is designed. I can drill a 3/4" hole through a piece of bar stock, and I can drill a 1/2" hole in the end with a bit of shoulder at the bottom, but there has to be some clearance around the banjo bolt inside the banjo knuckle. What I don't remember is if they get that by just drilling it oversize from the backside of the knuckle, depending on the copper washer to seal it, or whether the knuckle interior is larger ID than either the front or back face hole diameters. In the latter case, it is a bit harder to bore that banjo hole. If the back face can be counterbored to 7/8", leaving the last 1/8" 3/4" diameter, then the banjo hollow bolt would center fine in the 3/4" hole in the outside face and the counterbore would offer plenty of fluid flow inside the knuckle. It doesn't leave as much sealing surface on the back face of the banjo, but it would still probably work fine.
Maybe fabricating ends is not so unreasonable. I guess you could even make rectangular ones without a lathe. Just find some steel bar stock about 1.125" square, or maybe 1.25", cut pieces 2" long, drill a 3/4" hole about 9/16" from one end, counter bore that part way through with a 7/8" drill, then end drill the other end of the bar with a 7/16" drill through to the banjo hole, and then counter-bore that with a 1/2" drill, leaving a shoulder at the bottom. Braze some tubing in and you'd have an industrial strength banjo fitting. You could do some quick chamfering of the corners on a bench grinder. If you put it on a lathe, you could turn the tubing end down to say 3/4" or 11/16" OD.
I only need four of these, but gosh if they came out nice, I might use three more for the supply lines on the control valve too.
I have to say, the more I look at banjo fittings the nicer they seem to me. You get a right angle that is "universal" (doeesn't need to spin to thread into the hole) for minimum radial clearance, and it also offers the least height clearance too.
Plus it would be an excuse to get an oxy acetylene bottle set for brazing (I've got torches, hoses, and regulators passed down from my dad, but didn't get any tanks with them, movers wouuldn't move the tanks, even empty). Quimby is running a sale on ~3 foot long tanks for about $240 the pair.
Hummm... /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif