>>>ABRASIVE CUT-OFF or BAND-SAW ??<<<

[DJ54]

I've got an old DeWalt Chop saw, and it has served us well. It has to be 15 years old, and still going strong. It has cut a LOT of steel..!!

If you do get one, don't be afraid to spend a little more for a decent cut off wheel. I soon found the DeWalt blades last 4 times longer than the generic "Made in China" ones. For about the first inch on a generic blade, they cut great. After that, there seems to be very little abrasive. The DeWalt's seem to cut well, until they are worn down to the point, where they won't reach to cut anymore.

I have been know to use those blades in my HD Industrial Black& Decker 8" angle grinder, to cut light tubing, not possible to put in any saw...

 

[SPIKER]

There are best suited uses for each, band saw and chop saw.

light gauge tubing the chop saw is better. as the teeth break easly on a saw. the abrasive disks/wheels make a mess but work well enough as designed, work well for hard stuff but not as well for solid thick stuff round stock over 1/2" or bar stock over 1/4" thick the abrasive will/can clog up and burn/melt some, you need to keep a edge close by to knock off the BURNT cutting edge of the chop saw abrasive wheel to keep it cutting in heavy/thick stuff..

Mark

 

[2manyrocks]

The cutoff saw will create more dust and noise.

 

[Baby Grand]

Another thread mentioned an HF or NT metal cutting circular saw. It was very inexpensive and had a 7.25" blade. My BIL gave me his worn out Makita mitre saw, which I rebuilt, but it has a 10" blade, so no go on the metal cutting option. Then I did some snooping around and found these:


http://http://www.toolcenter.com/LENOX_circular_saw.html

Pri$y, but they have 10" & 14". If I end up doing a lot of welding I think it would pay for itself in quicker/ cleaner cuts , less heat affected area, less grinding for fit-up, less dust , and less time spent changing abrasive wheels. Depends on how long they stay sharp and I have to check if my miter saw spins at 5200 rpm.

-Jim

 

[GuglioLS]

How do they compare to my band-saw for general purpose cutting of such things as 1-1/2 x 3/16 angle-iron ??

IMHO - Keep your band saw for cutting angle, or up grade your band saw to a larger one with adjustable hydraulic blade lowering control and coolant / lubricant pump. I had a small one like yours for almost the same amount of time, I finally wore it out. I bought a new 12" X 7" saw with coolant pump and adjustable hydraulic cut control. My blades now last a very long time, I really like using that saw.

What can the "chop-saw" do that my band-saw can't ??

Cut hardened steel like induction hardened cylinder rod, hardened grader / scraper blades, spring steel, cut hydraulic hose. I use mine mostly for cutting hydraulic hose as I make my own lines using re-usable hose ends.

Is the chop-saw quite a bit quicker ??

It can be if you really lean into it. Blade life will suffer considerably if your in a hurry.

Larry

 

[dex3361]

I have an abrasive Chop saw and small die grinder type abrasive cutters. I recently tried the Harbor Freight hand held cold saw and I am amazed at what that thing will do.Here is a link to the thread that I started on this saw. I cut that red piece of metal that is in the picture in a much shorter time than it would have taken with the abrasive chop saw. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/157375-have-you-tried-hf-metal.html

Does it work better than an abrasive cut off saw? Yes I have not used my cut off saw since I bought the $100 metal cutting cold saw. It is hand held I might add. I will buy a chop type cold saw when they quit asking $400 saw for the Chinese made stuff.

 

[zzvyb6]

I use steel cutting wheels in my table saw with excellant results. Even up to 1/2" plate. Just made some nice replacemnt PHD teeth out of 1/4 stock. I have a Milwaukee cutoff saw but have not used it that much. A used Craftsman table saw goes for $25 - $50 on Craigslist... Sometimes its nice to have a long, straight, square edge on a piece of metal for reinforcements, pipe, blades and castings. Using the fence, guide and miter helps with making duplicates of your work.

 

[GT2]

I have both band saw and chop saw.
I use the chop saw for everything possible, then go to the band saw.
Nice thing about chop saw is when doing heavy tube, like for a trailer, you can do it all on the floor. No hoisting it up to the band saw.
I free hand angles all the time on my chop saw. Also notch, with grinder touch up.
Be sure to get a 14" unit, and I have found the "thin" blades work the best. When needed I have been able to get my chop saw cuts within .010". Plenty close enough for most all fabrication.

 

[BearKiller]

I hadn't thought of the ability of the abrasive chop-saw to cut the hardened stuff that would turn the teeth backwards on a band-saw blade.

That alone would justify getting one.

The rich guy down the road has a DEWALT saw very similar to the MAKITA pictured here :

Makita Cold Cut Metal Saw I have used the Makita on as big as 7x4x3/8 wall tubing. Takes right about 1 minute to make the cut.

He has his mounted in the center of a very long steel table, probably sixty-feet long, with a funnel/chute for the cuttings to make their way to a scrap bin.

How does one of these "cold saws" compare to the abrasive chop-saws ??


Thanks for the many replies and input.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I hadn't thought of the ability of the abrasive chop-saw to cut the hardened stuff that would turn the teeth backwards on a band-saw blade.

That alone would justify getting one.

The rich guy down the road has a DEWALT saw very similar to the MAKITA pictured here :



He has his mounted in the center of a very long steel table, probably sixty-feet long, with a funnel/chute for the cuttings to make their way to a scrap bin.

How does one of these "cold saws" compare to the abrasive chop-saws ??


Thanks for the many replies and input.

Day and night with minimal sparks. I also have a Milwaukee abrasive saw and have used the cheap blades along with the more expensive ones, I am not real happy with any of them. If you are cutting very thin tubing, then the abrasive saw is good, but anything else and you are better off with one of the other saws. These cold saws have their limitations also, I would say that they shine at cutting material that is 3/16-1/4" material. Blades will hold up for quite a while cutting that thickness of material. I have used it several times cutting 3/8" tubing and angle, but it takes its toll on the blade. My bigger band saw works best on the heavier material. There are many saw blades made for different types of material, it is always best to use the proper blade for the material being cut.

Just my experience with what I have and use.