A few days ago I bought a used O/A torch setup that came with a hose and oxygen and acetylene regulators. They guy fired up the torch (he was out of Oxy) but burned some acetylene so I could see it work. When I got home and looked at everything in detail I noticed that the acetylene regulator does not return to zero. It is not connected to anything but it stays around 9 or so. My first thought was that I was sold something by a dishonest person and the second is that I will ask here. I have not connected it to tanks and thinking of taking in the thing to the LWS. See picture and tell me what you think.
Acetylene regulator question
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rjmack
Platinum Member
i think that happens from leaving the pressure screw turned to one position for years on end. evidently the diaphram gets hard and stays in one position.
it may loosen up if you turn out the pressure screw, then again it may not.
it looks like you're in the range for cutting, the only issues you may have is if you try welding/brazing you may have too much pressure for the smaller tips.
maybe try hooking everything up, (always do a leakdown test first) light the acetylene only, turn the pressure regulating knob on the regulator slightly out (first) and then back in (the same amount) and see if you have any effect at the flame.
it may loosen up if you turn out the pressure screw, then again it may not.
it looks like you're in the range for cutting, the only issues you may have is if you try welding/brazing you may have too much pressure for the smaller tips.
maybe try hooking everything up, (always do a leakdown test first) light the acetylene only, turn the pressure regulating knob on the regulator slightly out (first) and then back in (the same amount) and see if you have any effect at the flame.
monckywrench
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Bad low-pressure guage. No other part of the regulator can cause that gauge to read high with no gas in the system.
It doesn't take much of a bounce to move the pointer and if it looked as it should when you first saw it then it could have happened in transport.
New ones are around ten bucks. They are pipe thread and easy to swap using an open-end wrench. New ones usually come with a dot of sealant or wrapped with Teflon.
I look for regulators with that problem so I can buy them cheap! All it takes is one problem for them to be taken out of service, and they usually don't have more than one problem.
Neat old Union Carbide guages. Post pics of the torch and we can give further advice depending on make and model.
Union Carbide/Oxweld/Purox/L-tec/Linde/Prest-O-Weld gear is excellent equipment!
It doesn't take much of a bounce to move the pointer and if it looked as it should when you first saw it then it could have happened in transport.
New ones are around ten bucks. They are pipe thread and easy to swap using an open-end wrench. New ones usually come with a dot of sealant or wrapped with Teflon.
I look for regulators with that problem so I can buy them cheap! All it takes is one problem for them to be taken out of service, and they usually don't have more than one problem.
Neat old Union Carbide guages. Post pics of the torch and we can give further advice depending on make and model.
Union Carbide/Oxweld/Purox/L-tec/Linde/Prest-O-Weld gear is excellent equipment!
Thanks for the help guys. The idea that it was left on cutting pressure could be right. The guy I bought it from said that he only used it for cutting. I don't think I bumped it as I handle all Oxy/Ac tanks and related stuff like egg shells. It would be safe to say I'm afraid of it somewhat.
He gave me the following list of stuff for my $120
Victor 315 torch
#1 welding tip (bent)
#3 welding tip
#5 welding tip
rosebud
1350 cutting attachment with #1 tip
Purox torch with cutting attachment #0 cutting tip, and a Linde tip he said is a brazing tip that fits the Purox
Also another small Victor torch with no tips I believe it is a J-100
I want to use them for cutting, bending, general heating, really want to learn brazing. I will do very little gas welding as I have an ac/dc buzz box that handles that task well.
How do I clean the inside of the tips? All except for the big Victor torch and the cutting attachment were covered with thick dust from years of sitting in an open box.
All suggestions are welcome.
He gave me the following list of stuff for my $120
Victor 315 torch
#1 welding tip (bent)
#3 welding tip
#5 welding tip
rosebud
1350 cutting attachment with #1 tip
Purox torch with cutting attachment #0 cutting tip, and a Linde tip he said is a brazing tip that fits the Purox
Also another small Victor torch with no tips I believe it is a J-100
I want to use them for cutting, bending, general heating, really want to learn brazing. I will do very little gas welding as I have an ac/dc buzz box that handles that task well.
How do I clean the inside of the tips? All except for the big Victor torch and the cutting attachment were covered with thick dust from years of sitting in an open box.
All suggestions are welcome.
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yomax4
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Take the plastic cover off of the gauge. "Gently" turn the needle back past the pin until you hear/feel the first click. Return it to the right side of the pin. If it's not at zero, Do it again, Repeat until it has slight pressure against the pin. This is how they were calibrated in the 1st place. If after 3 clicks you can't get it. Buy new. I would like to have that Victor J100 if you want to trade for a new regulator.
yomax4
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Looking at your pic.. It looks like you have a set of old Linde R205 and R207 regs. They are/were good but very obsolete. ( late 70's Early 80's) Gauges are fairly reasonable and you don't really need a 2.5". You can use a 2" and save 5-6 bucks. 2" and 2.5" all have 1/4 pipe threads. Try to Calibrate 1st or trade me. :thumbsup:
rjmack
Platinum Member
these are tip cleaners.
remember to use a straight one that fits easily inside the tip. you only want contact with the tip on the 'out' stroke, pulling dirt, slag, carbon buildiup etc out of the tip.
never force the tip cleaner into the tip, and keep in mind that the process is a gentle one. avoid hard scrubbing.
an ancient tip doesn't necessarily mean it is a worn out tip, but those tips may well be already worn out. the bore should be smooth, not gravely or rough when you are swabbing it out. work your way around the circumference of the bore. when you come to a rough spot, just keep at it gently until it smooths out.
if you can't smooth it out all the way around, whatever is in there won't come out, or the surface of the bore has already been damaged.
for the cutting jet on your cutting tip, you should be able to see, at the very least, 6-8 inches of cutting jet. 12-18 inches is normal for a clean tip on a torch that is properly set.
once you have checked that you have control of your acetylene reg (by being able to turn it down low enough to run your small brazing tips, or high enough for all the preheats on your cutting torch) then put your cutting head on and light the torch starting around 10 acetylene and 40 oxygen. you want a neutral to carburizing/carbonizing flame on your cutting torch preheat flames. the last thing you want are oxidizing preheat flames.
depress your cutting trigger and observe the cutting jet. adjust the oxygen regulator up or down while observing the cutting jet. get the most (longest) cutting jet you can and go from there.
once you have the regs tuned in, swab the cutting jet again just to make sure it is smooth all the way around, then light it and fine tune the oxygen reg again, using the cutting jet length for a guide.
always do a leak down test when you first turn the bottles on and always turn the bottles off when you are done the specific job. that's really important.
have fun :thumbsup:
remember to use a straight one that fits easily inside the tip. you only want contact with the tip on the 'out' stroke, pulling dirt, slag, carbon buildiup etc out of the tip.
never force the tip cleaner into the tip, and keep in mind that the process is a gentle one. avoid hard scrubbing.
an ancient tip doesn't necessarily mean it is a worn out tip, but those tips may well be already worn out. the bore should be smooth, not gravely or rough when you are swabbing it out. work your way around the circumference of the bore. when you come to a rough spot, just keep at it gently until it smooths out.
if you can't smooth it out all the way around, whatever is in there won't come out, or the surface of the bore has already been damaged.
for the cutting jet on your cutting tip, you should be able to see, at the very least, 6-8 inches of cutting jet. 12-18 inches is normal for a clean tip on a torch that is properly set.
once you have checked that you have control of your acetylene reg (by being able to turn it down low enough to run your small brazing tips, or high enough for all the preheats on your cutting torch) then put your cutting head on and light the torch starting around 10 acetylene and 40 oxygen. you want a neutral to carburizing/carbonizing flame on your cutting torch preheat flames. the last thing you want are oxidizing preheat flames.
depress your cutting trigger and observe the cutting jet. adjust the oxygen regulator up or down while observing the cutting jet. get the most (longest) cutting jet you can and go from there.
once you have the regs tuned in, swab the cutting jet again just to make sure it is smooth all the way around, then light it and fine tune the oxygen reg again, using the cutting jet length for a guide.
always do a leak down test when you first turn the bottles on and always turn the bottles off when you are done the specific job. that's really important.
have fun :thumbsup:
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yomax4
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In looking closer at the Pic of the Torch stuff. I see that the purox stuff is an obsolete CA275 cutting attachment and handle. Heavy Duty Victor cutting attachment and a medium duty victor handle. Hard to tell on the heating tips but they look mix'd as well. All good stuff but will surely need O-Rings. Ony 1 of the regulators is a Linde R205. The other I don't know.
monckywrench
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I inspect the O-rings with a bright light and touch them to ensure they are still soft-ish.
When in doubt, replace with a proper Viton ring and NOT hardware store cheapies.
The Purox stuff has descendants which are still in production and those torches are excellent. These videos demonstrate what you can do with them and are worth a look since they also depict setting your torch.
If you use the Downloadhelper add-on for Firefox you can save them to your PC and play the videos with VLC media player. Both are free with no catches or nagware or malware.
How to use a cutting torch - WeldingWeb™ - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts
I suggest keeping both since Victor tips are quite common on Ebay but Purox have a great industrial "feel" and you may find you like them better.
The Victor is worth more because of the name, about eighty bucks or better with attachment. I prefer Purox to Victor but I keep a few (larger) Victors too since they are easy to accumulate.
Torch "feel" is different for everyone, so you may like one handle better than another for that reason.
OADoctor's business is well-regarded and worth a look for parts and rebuild services if needed. You can give him a shout on the O-rings:
Regulator & Torch Exchange - Home
Example parts:
Regulator & Torch Exchange - Repair Parts
When in doubt, replace with a proper Viton ring and NOT hardware store cheapies.
The Purox stuff has descendants which are still in production and those torches are excellent. These videos demonstrate what you can do with them and are worth a look since they also depict setting your torch.
If you use the Downloadhelper add-on for Firefox you can save them to your PC and play the videos with VLC media player. Both are free with no catches or nagware or malware.
How to use a cutting torch - WeldingWeb™ - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts
I suggest keeping both since Victor tips are quite common on Ebay but Purox have a great industrial "feel" and you may find you like them better.
The Victor is worth more because of the name, about eighty bucks or better with attachment. I prefer Purox to Victor but I keep a few (larger) Victors too since they are easy to accumulate.
Torch "feel" is different for everyone, so you may like one handle better than another for that reason.
OADoctor's business is well-regarded and worth a look for parts and rebuild services if needed. You can give him a shout on the O-rings:
Regulator & Torch Exchange - Home
Example parts:
Regulator & Torch Exchange - Repair Parts
I'll keep you in mind if I get another J100, since I have big hands I don't care for them and sell/swap them off.
Thanks for the help and suggestions. I will replace all the O-ring for sure.
My question about cleaning the tips I meant how do I clean the whole thing. The tips - other then the Victor cutting tip - were sitting in a garage and had dust all over some even seemed that it got moisture and dust that caked into a hard mud-like stuff. That was on the some of the thread and the feed side of the tips that were not attached to anything. I did my best to wipe them clean with a clean moist rag. I blew air through them gently and they seem free. I cleaned the "flame end" of the tips as well with the files.
I'm trying to find used tanks before I go to the LWS and buy new ones. I have been looking for several months and at this point I'm ready to give up and buy new.
yomax4, I will want to make sure that at least one of the torches works properly before I consider trading. I'm sure I will not need more then one and if the old Purox works too that's great. I will try to see if I can fix the regulator myself if not then we can talk.
My question about cleaning the tips I meant how do I clean the whole thing. The tips - other then the Victor cutting tip - were sitting in a garage and had dust all over some even seemed that it got moisture and dust that caked into a hard mud-like stuff. That was on the some of the thread and the feed side of the tips that were not attached to anything. I did my best to wipe them clean with a clean moist rag. I blew air through them gently and they seem free. I cleaned the "flame end" of the tips as well with the files.
I'm trying to find used tanks before I go to the LWS and buy new ones. I have been looking for several months and at this point I'm ready to give up and buy new.
yomax4, I will want to make sure that at least one of the torches works properly before I consider trading. I'm sure I will not need more then one and if the old Purox works too that's great. I will try to see if I can fix the regulator myself if not then we can talk.
monckywrench
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They are a very good idea which is why the Mine Safety folks require them on regs and torch.
Also, gloves are your friend in all sorts of welding. Presume everything is hot. :laughing:
It Just Went BOOM!!!!! - WeldingWeb - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts
I don't consider those torches and tips "dirty". You already did what I'd do to them. I shine the ones I sell (since every dog likes to mark its own tree) but brass patinas quickly so there's no point in doing a torch you're gonna use. They look quite decent, actually.
The trick to telling hard use on a torch is dents, dings and beat marks, not patina.
Also, Teflon tape is not for regulator nuts (just noticed the pic). Ensure the nipple surface is clean and smooth, post a pic if in doubt, and tighten securely to your cylinder then check for leaks. Replacement nipples are standard and your local welding supply normally stocks them for a few dollars if you need one.
I'd keep both the big Victor (you WANT that rosebud, they come in handy) and the Purox (for which you have two cutting attachments, and they are NICE to use). I have the same torches and since they are paid for it would be smart to use them for a while to see which you prefer for a given task.
Also, gloves are your friend in all sorts of welding. Presume everything is hot. :laughing:
It Just Went BOOM!!!!! - WeldingWeb - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts
I don't consider those torches and tips "dirty". You already did what I'd do to them. I shine the ones I sell (since every dog likes to mark its own tree) but brass patinas quickly so there's no point in doing a torch you're gonna use. They look quite decent, actually.
The trick to telling hard use on a torch is dents, dings and beat marks, not patina.
Also, Teflon tape is not for regulator nuts (just noticed the pic). Ensure the nipple surface is clean and smooth, post a pic if in doubt, and tighten securely to your cylinder then check for leaks. Replacement nipples are standard and your local welding supply normally stocks them for a few dollars if you need one.
Since the J100 is tipless, you could off that. A name-brand regulator (Smith, Victor, Harris, Purox, Oxweld, etc) is a fair swap.
I'd keep both the big Victor (you WANT that rosebud, they come in handy) and the Purox (for which you have two cutting attachments, and they are NICE to use). I have the same torches and since they are paid for it would be smart to use them for a while to see which you prefer for a given task.
Last edited:
rjmack
Platinum Member
okay, my mistake, just trying to be helpful
all the same, those are valuable insights that hold true. there are many things that are taught in welding school, and many that are not... for various reasons. sometimes the things you have to figure out on your own are the most valuable. if you don't have a sharp torch, and the right amount of preheat, you will soon come to hate slag removal.
far as torch choice, my experience has been that, generally speaking, torches with longer cutting jet levers are easier to do nice work with because you have to apply less force to them. less force equals less stress in your hand/fingers and a smoother result. those that claim a shorter torch is easier to work with actually have it backwards, at least that's my experience.
having said that, when an experienced welding supply salesman offers to trade straight across for a new one... you know he isn't offering to trade down. someone who sells welding supplies for a long time has the potential to become an expert welding supply salesman, but it's always prudent to remember that welding supply salesman, and welder, are different trades.
monckywrench
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Affirmative! :thumbsup:
okay, my mistake, just trying to be helpful
Rjmack, You are being helpful and I very much appreciate it. I must say the same to everyone else too!
I took apart the gauge and was able to "zero" it on the third click. Now with no pressure it says: "there is no pressure". I went to the LWS and ordered a couple sets of O-rings for the big Victor torch. I figured I will get the cutting attachment and the #3 welding nozzle outfitted with new ones regardless of what is on there now. I forgot that I wanted to get the rosebud going as well, but will do that next time. The guys at the shop said that they are willing to test the torches but if they need more then O-rings they have to send them out for any other repair work. I will take the whole works in on Monday or Tuesday.
monckywrench
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Ask to observe the tests since they take very little time and ask for them to explain what they do so you can learn.
Todd NE WY
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I noticed you said you are looking for used bottles prior to purchasing new. Most of the time bottles are leased. There are many threads on here where people own the bottles and they had issues getting filled without bills of sale etc. My LWS offers the best of both worlds, a lifetime lease. I don't remember what I paid but it wasn't much more than the 5 year lease option. Now I just drop off my bottles and pick up a filled one. I don't have to worry about rectifying the bottles every so many years and I don't have to write a lease check every year. Just a thought.
Todd
Todd
dstig1
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I have a lifetime lease on my C25 tank. They still charge a $15-20 hydro test fee every 5 years on that. Not major, but is kind of annoying as leases are typically thought to be all inclusive...at least by me. I really like this LWS so far, so I'm not really complaining here, just FYI.
