Actual cost of firewood

[majorwager]

4570 Man.
Not sure of point, did not read a statement that any purchase drops to zero unless that is the vaule. As for the 20K+ number, believe that includes the tractor, but for fairness should include only the proportional use of the tractor for firewood harvesting Similar to renting the tractor from your other uses by the hour. Possible to assign a hourly rate cost for each activity utilizing the tractor to cover the total outlay. Or forget the whole thing because thinking about the firewood cost seems to be inducing acute headache syndrome. I do believe most harvesting firewood have considerably more than $1K invested. Bottom line, be happy with your efforts, don't worry about threads that question the costs.

 

[goeduck]

Not practical, would need a large body of water. I think it would freeze up.

Even though geo lines are underground, the ground temp around the loop gets colder as you extract heat from the ground. After a long cold spell, the water in the loop can get down to freezing. You need antifreeze in the loop. Heat pump refrigerant works on a temperature and volume difference.

There are DX geo units, along your thought, that have an outdoor unit and bury copper refrigerent lines in the ground. I looked at an installation once. I didn't like the concept.

Dang, for a while there I thought maybe I could drop some cables off of my dock and relocate and dangle the outdoor unit in the saltwater. Large body of water that does not freeze with good circulation (really good in a storm).

Do barnacles make for good heat transfer?

 

[majorwager]

Second half,
You adequately stated that "everyone comes on a thread with a different perspective" Dilly Dilly

 

[goeduck]

I致e read it痴 a tube inside a larger tube. Picture a straw inside a larger pipe that I assume is several feet long. I think the Freon is inside the smaller pipe and the water in the larger pipe. The equipment all looks different than a heat pump.

Kind of sounds a coax cable. I wonder what the expected life of the tube is and if the antifreeze is sufficient anti corrosion protection. Replacing the tube obviously would be a PITA.

 

[4570Man]

4570 Man.
Not sure of point, did not read that any purchase drops to zero unless that is the vaule. As for the 20K number, believe that includes the tractor, but for fairness should include the proportional use of the tractor for firewood harvesting Similar to renting the tractor from your other uses by the hour. Possible to assign a hourly rate cost for each activity utilizing the tractor to cover the total outlay. Or forget the whole thing because thinking about the firewood cost seems to be inducing headache syndrome. I do believe most harvesting firewood have considerably more than $1K invested. Bottom line, be happy with your efforts, don't worry about threads that question the costs.

There was some information in that post not gathered in this thread. Operating cost of equipment is equally if not a more mind boggling task than firewood cost. I along with most people have more than $1000 invested in firewood equipment, but I believe you could cut a years supply of wood in timely manner with $1000 in equipment. That’s assuming you already have a pickup truck and are buying a used splitter and new saw with the $1000. You’re going to need a few other things like a wheelbarrow, cant hook, gas cans, and safety equipment. Maybe you’ll be in this one for $1500, but most of it could be recouped.

 

[4570Man]

I don’t think LD1 is wrong, but I don’t think it’s exactly fair either. Look how much the miles on your vehicle would be worth if you were a taxi driver or look how much the meal you cooked for your family was worth if you were a restaurant.

 

[Creamer]

There was some information in that post not gathered in this thread. Operating cost of equipment is equally if not a more mind boggling task than firewood cost. I along with most people have more than $1000 invested in firewood equipment, but I believe you could cut a years supply of wood in timely manner with $1000 in equipment. That’s assuming you already have a pickup truck and are buying a used splitter and new saw with the $1000. You’re going to need a few other things like a wheelbarrow, cant hook, gas cans, and safety equipment. Maybe you’ll be in this one for $1500, but most of it could be recouped.

I for one have cut wood for 25 years and do not have near $1000 in equipment. Of course some of it was "re-purposed" and other was built from scratch and I do not have a powered splitter which is usually a big share of the cost. My tractor came with the house so i would have it anyway. My pallet forks I bought for other reasons but like everyone says how do you live without them and they work great for firewood and logs too. Basically it is my saw - which I needed for other reasons anyway - and the tools to maintain the saw, i.e. file. Hatchets and wedges and little ole me. I have as much money in screws for reinforcing the shipping box and building a sawbuck as I do anything.

Oh I did have a wood splitter until it gave out on me.

 

[LD1]

Do you have a thread on your geothermal install? I'd like to hear more about the details.

This is a good start.

Never did post final pics of everything. but I imagine it looks like any other HVAC system

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...geothermal-plumbing.html?highlight=Geothermal

 

[jcmaurice6]

I use for heating my shop 90% wood and the rest with electric heating, I cut my own wood and that why it is probably worth it. And also it is another reason to play with my tractor! One small wood stove it ok for thr 20"x40" even if the insulation is not so good.

 

[goeduck]

I use for heating my shop 90% wood and the rest with electric heating, I cut my own wood and that why it is probably worth it. And also it is another reason to play with my tractor! One small wood stove it ok for thr 20"x40" even if the insulation is not so good.

That is a very nice shop! I could live in something that nice.

 

[majorwager]

Saw a flier from Rural King, wood pellets for $3.19/40 lb bag. That is $169/ton. I don't use them but have seen many folks complain that this product has vaulted to more than $200/ton. Also read that product quality is Not always consistant among brands.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Saw a flier from Rural King, wood pellets for $3.19/40 lb bag. That is $169/ton. I don't use them but have seen many folks complain that this product has vaulted to more than $200/ton. Also read that product quality is Not always consistant among brands.

Saw that price in dec, thought it was a misprint. Unfortunately RK is 1.5 hrs away, not worth the gas and time. What brand do they carry? Are they hardwood premium?

 

[majorwager]

Buckeyefarmer,
Do not know which brand, unfamiliar with the consistency. Currently under the cloud of WHAP, WHAP, so that is all there is to offer at this time.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Buckeyefarmer,
Do not know which brand, unfamiliar with the consistency. Currently under the cloud of WHAP, WHAP, so that is all there is to offer at this time.

If im ever near one, will have to pick up a bag or 2 to try. They cost $100 per ton more here.

 

[Buggs67]

A rick is the standard measurement locally which is 4x8 with no standard on length. I think a face cord is the same thing. I致e sold a lot of truck loads of wood which is the dumbest æ�œeasurement of all. Nearly everyone ask how long I cut my firewood to which I reply 16?- so they sorta know how much wood thereæ±*e getting.

4'x8'x16" is 1/3 of a cord which as far as I know is what most people consider a face cord (i.e. the "face" of a cord of 4'x8'x4' that has been cut and split to 16" lengths). Nobody sells face cords in NJ. Here in PA I'm still getting a handle on the situation.

 

[4570Man]

It’s 1/3 of a cord, but you can’t stack it without some air space. So these 1/3 cords don’t add up to 1 cord as far as I’m concerned.

 

[Buggs67]

Question:

I see some people referring to burning pine of some variety. I just moved from NJ where I had an unlimited supply of hardwood. There are 6-8 standing dead red oaks from the gypsy moth attack. (BTW In North Jersey I paid $200/cord for seasoned cut and split to order. He was a friend who's primary business is land clearing/trucking. And his cords were fat; 3 cord was closer to 3 1/2-4)

My new property in PA is mostly small trees and pine.

How long do you have to season pine to burn it and not have the creosote problem? The pine I have here down already I'll just use for outdoors but if I can use some of it in the woodstove I'd do so.

 

[LD1]

How long to season is a tough question to answer, as there are too many variables.

Stacked wood seasons faster than piled....because of airflow.
Split wood seasons much much faster than unsplit. Some wood will actually rot long before seasoned if not split.
What's the weather? 80-90 degree sunny days season wood much faster than 30-40 degrees and drizzle.
Tarping helps if it's miserable weather.
Again....too many variables to accurately answer. With good heat and airflow (summer or stored inside with airflow) a few weeks can season most green wood.
Or it could be years if piled or unsplit.

If in doubt...drop $30 at Lowe's and buy a moisture meter

 

[2ndhalf]

Question:

I see some people referring to burning pine of some variety. I just moved from NJ where I had an unlimited supply of hardwood. There are 6-8 standing dead red oaks from the gypsy moth attack. (BTW In North Jersey I paid $200/cord for seasoned cut and split to order. He was a friend who's primary business is land clearing/trucking. And his cords were fat; 3 cord was closer to 3 1/2-4)

My new property in PA is mostly small trees and pine.

How long do you have to season pine to burn it and not have the creosote problem? The pine I have here down already I'll just use for outdoors but if I can use some of it in the woodstove I'd do so.

You can burn any wood but some is not favorable for various reason; pine is one of them. It burns too fast and not as hot and it can cause your chimney to build up creosote. I wouldn't burn a lot of it if I were you and if you do keep up on your chimney cleaning.

 

[/pine]

There is a major misconception about creosote and what causes it...
Hardwood can cause creosote buildup just the same as pine...I know people that have only burned oak and had a flue fire because of creosote...

It is all about moisture content...a live tree cut and split can (depending on ambient temp.and humidity) take over a year to get an internal MC of 15%.
Trees that were downed or dead standing will be different depending...

Green or wet wood will burn but the moisture is going to be released as vapor along with carbon elements and will condense as creosote as it cools...

Moisture meters will not give accurate readings on a typical split etc...a partially seasoned split may read 15% or less on a meter but toss it on a fire and watch as the outer 1/3 burns like seasoned wood should but then it just starts to smolder...