Add on valves

[bones1]

I just forun this site searching for remotes etc.Looks like the have some usable gear for adding hydraulics.
http://www.vandminc.com/vmsite/vm/list.html

 

[MadReferee]

Those have been discussed here before. They are basically diverters.

 

[ovrszd]

Those have been discussed here before. They are basically diverters.

Sorry for bringing this up in two posts, I already asked about this in the Hyd Top Link thread.

Is there a reason more people don't use electric over hydraulics valves?? I grew up around Gleaner combines and they have used them to control the header for a long, long time. They seem to work very well with little maintenance.

I have a perfect spot to locate a couple rocker or toggle, self centering switches on the top of my right fender, just behind the 3pt lift lever. these could control my two rear remotes. Thanks for all advice. I'm attaching a pic.

 

[MadReferee]

Is there a reason more people don't use electric over hydraulics valves?? I grew up around Gleaner combines and they have used them to control the header for a long, long time. They seem to work very well with little maintenance.

I have a perfect spot to locate a couple rocker or toggle, self centering switches on the top of my right fender, just behind the 3pt lift lever. these could control my two rear remotes.

You first need a remote in order to use those add-a-valves or multipliers. They take a single set of remotes and using an electronic solenoid diverter/multiplier valve make one into two (or many). I believe that you will find that it will be more expensive to go that way than to go with a Prince SV, which is the perfect all hydraulic choice for your B2910.

You could get a electric/hydraulic full spool valve (not a diverter or multiplier) like the one used by the WR Long grapple as it is essentially an aux valve, albeit electric. They do cost more because it typically uses a DO3 mounting plate. However they don't have a pressure relief and power beyond. That may or may not be an issue for your applications.

No mater what you choose, plumbing should be relatively straight forward since the B2910 does have the rear aux block.

 

[PineRidge]

I just forun this site searching for remotes etc.Looks like the have some usable gear for adding hydraulics.
http://www.vandminc.com/vmsite/vm/list.html

Those appear to be a variation of this valve.

 

[JamesH]

I have been studying the different valve options also for use on a future grapple.
Correct me if I am wrong but a straight electronic valve used instead of a manual valve with a stick would not give you the ability to or be as easy to feather a cylinder. They would either be on or off, completely extended or completely contracted. Good for some uses but not all.

I would like to hear some opinions of the diverter available from Surplus center also. Or is it just as cheap to go with the WR Long kit?
Best Regards,
James

 

[kennyd]

I would like to hear some opinions of the diverter available from Surplus center also.

I installed this valve on my FEL 2 years ago to operate a snowplow and a future grapple. It has worked flawlessly.

The thread can be view at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48310

 

[3RRL]

James,
You got half of this right.
Correct me if I am wrong but a straight electronic valve used instead of a manual valve with a stick would not give you the ability to or be as easy to feather a cylinder. They would either be on or off, completely extended or completely contracted. Good for some uses but not all.

Correct, no feathering the cylinder operated by the solenoid valve.
But the cyclinders are not "completely extended or retracted". It depends when you switch off the solenoid valve where the cylinder has extended or retracted to, and then stays there. So you can "position" where you want the cylinder/implement.

 

[MadReferee]

I have no trouble feathering the WR Long valve. But then again, I used 1/4" hoses which in themselves restricts the fluid enough to allow feathering.

 

[MadReferee]

I would like to hear some opinions of the diverter available from Surplus center also. Or is it just as cheap to go with the WR Long kit?James

The WR Long kit is $519 retail from a WRL dealer. But it includes the valve, DO3 mounting plate, fittings, hoses, QD's and most importantly a mounting plate to fit your particular tractor's loader frame.

You can probably put together the same parts for about $100 less but you still have to fab a mounting plate. Sometimes it's worth it to buy the kit with the right components rather than chasing them down yourself. It was for me and I know what I am doing and could have done it myself. Time is money.

 

[bones1]

Along similar lines, where can I buy the black fabric sheathing that covers the hydraulic hoses such as in below?.My tractor has none.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31037&d=1102896869

 

[PineRidge]

The Gersen valve has worked flawlessly for our grapple. We used a restrictor purchased from TSC for 4 bucks. It slowed the grapple down to a point where it could easily be feathered.

Discounthydraulichose carries anti-abrasion sock.

 

[ksmmoto]

I have the W.R. Long valve that I got a few months ago thanks to the great help from TBN posters. It feathers very good with the 1/4" hoses, I forget that it is a electric switch sometimes.

I promised to post about the install and operation, but I have been too busy using my grapple! Maybe later this winter.

ksmmoto

 

[3RRL]

You are right about using restictive hoses small enough diameter to "feather" the cylinder....to get "light and and delicate use" of it, but I don't think you can "feather" the electric valve. Unless I'm way off base here, it is either full open or closed. That is it allows fluid passage or not. I was referring to the feathing like on a manual valve that you can open "slightly" ...thereby feather it in that respect. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[MadReferee]

The electric valve is either open or closed. You can't feather it like a manual hydraulic spool. However, the the smaller restricted hoses limits fluid flow to accomplish the feathering along with the quickness of the on/off switch. Put 3/8" hoses on the work port side of that electric valve and notice the difference. It'll be like night and day.

 

[3RRL]

The electric valve is either open or closed. You can't feather it like a manual hydraulic spool.

OK then, that's what I thought.
As far as changing mine to Ø1/4 hose, I don't think I need to. I figured since I was splitting the flow between 2 grapples and using one Ø3/8 hose to feed both, it would essentially do the same, and indeed it does. There is only .006sq/in difference between splitting the Ø3/8 hose and using the Ø1/4 hose. So for all practical purpose, it acts like it is plumbed with Ø1/4 hose.