Loader Adding a grapple to my DK45SE

[tpulley]

Hi folks. Let me first say I have been enjoying reading the posts from several months back to date. I bought my DK45se about 6 months ago and LOVE IT....

I read about someone or three mentioning a grapple bucket. It seems this is what I need. I plan to do some thinning out of a 3-5 acre wooded lot. Taking the smaller stuff out etc. I have a couple of questions while looking at what it takes to make this happen. I contacted my dealer yesterday to find out what it would cost to put on a grapple. He said he didn't sell them. But for $3600 I could get a 4-1 bucket added. No problem me thinks, I can find anything on the net. :thumbsup:

However I will need to get some hyrdaulic changes to be able to use the top clamp/thumb part. What does it take to make this change on the Kioti dk45se? Is this something I could do myself? I am pretty mechanically inclined and do much if not all my own maint on the tractor. I see no reason to pay a dealer to do something I am capable of. I also know my limitations and if I don't feel comfortable with something I will leave it to the experts.

Lastly what kind of bucket do you guys recommend for clearing 4 inch or less trees, a few stumps , old fallen trees etc from the lot?

Thanks in advance for the ideas.

 

[gkh7890]

TPULLEY,

First.....welcome to the Pack!!!:thumbsup:

Regarding your question/comment about the hydraulic part, you can either run lines to your rear remotes and use that....this is by far the most inexpensive option - you will more than likely have to use 2 hands. If you go with a 3rd function valve and joystick mounted switch, you only need 1 hand! This is definitely the way to go if you have the cash as it is a few hundred more.

I'm on a limited budget right now and can't justify the $500 to $700 cost for a 3rd function valve. However, I have found a 12volt ac 3rd function valve w/ 16.8 gpm rating (which is the minimum of what we need) for $110 (see Item# 202303 @ Northerntool.com). You'll need a subplate to go with it ($40). The hoses and fittings shouldn't cost that much but the biggest cost after the valve will be the switch. That's about as far as I've gotten to date.....may be piecing it together over the next few months??

If you can turn a wrench and have any experience under the hood of a car, you can install this yourself (IMHO). Good Luck!!!

Oh, one last thing......take and post pics, please!!!

 

[VictorW]

Other than the hydraulics, which is needed for any type of grapple, here's another option other than a 4in1 bucket or dedicated grapple. It's a grapple attachment for your current bucket. Not to make your decision making harder; just another option. Michigan Iron can also hook you up with whatever hydraulics you may want and they're a Kioti dealer.

Michigan Iron & Equipment: Kioti Dealer

ANBO Manufacturing - Bucket Grapple Series

Another place to see the many attachments that are out there:
http://www.everythingattachments.com/Default.asp?Redirected=Y

 

[steve0413]

I got a grapple from Markham (now Gator I believe). I already had an extra set of remotes on my tractor so all I had to do was purchase and route the hydraulic lines to the grapple. Total cost was around $1100 for grapple and lines. I didn't add the electric over hydraulic valve/switch because of the cost. I haven't missed it at all and have never had to use more than one hand to operate it. It's one of those things that after a day of operating it, you don't even know you're taking your hand off the FEL control. My grapple is a 60 in and I've said on here before that if I had it to do over, I may very well go with the 48 inch. It's a very tough grapple and will do anything you have any business doing with a DK45.

After knowing what mine will do, I just can't see paying $3000 for one. Just my opinion of course.

 

[Coyote machine]

I LOVE my Igland model 4001 log grapple. It is super heavy duty, built by people who know how to build winches and grapples that won't bend, or break without EXTREME abuse. It performs flawlessly and can pick up incredible loads due to its weighing only 500 +/- lbs and having a 3' width, so it doesn't detract from maximum lift capacity of the loader by all that much cpompared to some heavier grapples. It does have a very HD structure that is IMHO designed for serious use without suffering from lesser metal thickness problems which some large size grapples tines seem to exhibit. Pricing is reasonable too for what one receives for the amount spent.

 

[tpulley]

Thanks for all the replies. I have spent the better part of the weekend poking around and looking different grapples. I have thoroughly enjoyed the everythingattachments.com site . lots of good videos on there. I called those folks this am to get the skinny on a kit. For the dk45se it is $875 (they have two sizes under 15gpm and over 15gpm, the 45se is 16.8 gpm which adds $100 to the junction valve price). I then received a call from my dealer who just quoted me a $4200 + tax price. OUCH. I can only think of the $$$ I am going to save.

Now to figure out which grapple bucket to choose. I am leaning toward the 60" of what ever. I see some that have dual paddles and some that have a single paddle on top. Which is better? At first I thought the single would be sturdier but then got to thinking that when carrying "stuff" that is uneven the split paddle would be better. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[kiotimiike]

I bought a C.I.D light root grapple this summer and i have had very good luck with it.It has a single cylinder and does all that I want .

 

[J_J]

tpulley,

If you need a feather option on your grapple, then look at this selector valve. It takes the tilt hyd supply and routes the fluid to either the tilt cyl or the grapple cyl. A switch on the joystick lever selects which function you will use.

Surplus Center - SAE 8 15 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-1

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117.pdf

There are many grapple attachments on the web. Single or double, etc. If you are handy with a welder, you can build your own.

Here are some pictures of different grapples..

 

[Coyote machine]

Here's THE grapple: http://www.treemansupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GR-20

This will do everything you need for less money and it's stronger than most anything out there.

 

[steve0413]

The single cylinder works fine for every application I've ever needed. When it comes to grapples, you're going to get lots of opinions on here. Grapples are so handy, that whatever one gets, it seems to be the BEST one on the market. :laughing: Good luck!

 

[tpulley]

Hey J J what is a feather option? I tried googling it but came up with all sorts of weird things.

Also what is a minimum thickness for the steel I should be looking at? I have found from 3/8 - 5/8 so far. As well as the type of steel? T1 is a hardened steel from what I remember. A36 is a common mild steel. It appears the more expensive grapples use T1 and at least 1/2 thick. Is this over kill? Do you guys get bent teeth often on your grapples?

 

[J_J]

Tractor Grapple for skid steer or frontend loader | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tractor-Gra...ltDomain_0&hash=item5ae1b71aba#ht_1795wt_1055

 

[brin]

Tractor Grapple for skid steer or frontend loader | eBay

Tractor Grapple for skid steer or frontend loader | eBay

Hi JJ,

I have a question....I clicked on that frontend loader bucket on ebay you posted ...I have a NH - TC 29 with a NH 7306 FEL ..If I bought this from them with the cylinder for $295.00 would I need to add more hydraulic connections or would it plug into my existing loader connections...Thanks

 

[tpulley]

I see what you are saying now. The feather thingy is the thumb for the bucket? I am thinking I don't want to capture the dirt and "stuff" So I am thinking I need/want the open tined buckets.

 

[J_J]

Hi JJ,

I have a question....I clicked on that frontend loader bucket on ebay you posted ...I have a NH - TC 29 with a NH 7306 FEL ..If I bought this from them with the cylinder for $295.00 would I need to add more hydraulic connections or would it plug into my existing loader connections...Thanks

You will have to power your grapple with either remote hyd, or a diverter valve using the tilt cyl fluid as the source. A selector valve like this would work.

Surplus Center - SAE 8 15 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-1

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117.pdf

If you have remotes at the back, some extra long hoses to the front would work. However, when you are using the loader, the loader uses most all of the fluid. If you use only half of the fluid for the loader, then the other half of the fluid can be used for the grapple.

The diverter/selector valve will let you use either the tilt or the grapple, using a switch on the joystick handle.

 

[IslandTractor]

An excellent grapple plus use of rear remotes can be set up on any DK for just over $1000. Anyone looking to add a grapple should understand that more money invested really does not give you any more functionality.

A simple 48 inch single upper arm grapple will, paradoxically, lift more than any larger or more expensive grapple. Period. Why spend more? They can be purchased and delivered for just about $1000 or less. Everyone loves whichever grapple they purchase so why not save some bucks to spend on other implements. Spending much more on a grapple without a very clear rationale is just throwing money away. No newbie or first time grapple owner should spend more as by definition you would not have the experience to know that you are one of the 5% who might benefit from a more expensive grapple type.

Everyone adding a grapple to a DK, which already has at least one set of rear remotes, should just try using the rear remotes to control the grapple before investing in a diverter valve or electric over hydraulic. Seriously, if you can drive a 4 on the floor transmission then you can operate a grapple as easily as with a button on a joystick. I am one of the few who have used both the joystick button and the rear remote lever to control a grapple so I am speaking from experience. Do not get bamboozled by glitz. Before you invest in any higher priced option, try to use the rear remotes, which will cost you about $100 for hoses, fittings and zipties, and will take even a tractor newbie about 30 minutes to set up. If you find you want a joystick button system then the fittings and even the hoses are reusable. No one who doesn't know they need a diverter or electric over hydraulic should buy one of those $1000 plus cost options without giving the rear remotes a try.

So, spend about $1100 or less and join the hoards of happy grapple owners or spend two or three times as much to join the same club. Your call.

 

[steve0413]

An excellent grapple plus use of rear remotes can be set up on any DK for just over $1000. Anyone looking to add a grapple should understand that more money invested really does not give you any more functionality.

A simple 48 inch single upper arm grapple will, paradoxically, lift more than any larger or more expensive grapple. Period. Why spend more? They can be purchased and delivered for just about $1000 or less. Everyone loves whichever grapple they purchase so why not save some bucks to spend on other implements. Spending much more on a grapple without a very clear rationale is just throwing money away. No newbie or first time grappme owner should spend more as by definition you would not have the experience to know that you are one of the 5% who might benefit from a more expensive grapple type.

Everyone adding a grapple to a DK, which already has at least one set of rear remotes, should just try using the rear remotes to control the grapple before investing in a diverter valve or electric over hydraulic. Seriously, if you can drive a 4 on the floor transmission then you can operate a grapple as easily as with a button on a joystick. I am one of the few who have used both the joystick button and the rear remote lever to control a grapple so I am speaking from experience. Do not get bamboozled by glitz. If you use the rear remotes, which will cost you about $100 for hoses, fittings and zipties, and will take even a tractor newbie about 30 minutes to set up. If you find you want a joystick button system then the fittings and even the hoses are reusable. No one who doesn't know they need a diverter or electric over hydraulic should buy one of those $1000 plus cost options should do so without giving the rear remotes a try.

So, spend about $1100 or less and join the hoards of happy grapple owners or spend two or three times as much to join the same club. Your call.

Couldn't have said it better. Common sense is a beautiful thing.

 

[J_J]

I see what you are saying now. The feather thingy is the thumb for the bucket? I am thinking I don't want to capture the dirt and "stuff" So I am thinking I need/want the open tined buckets.

Feathering a hyd valve is the ability to provide some finesse to the operation of a hyd valve, perhaps a grapple closing. Some times you want slow operation, so you only move the lever a small amount. Essentially what you are doing is letting a small amount of fluid into the cyl for slow movements.

If the valve is matched up to the flow of the pump, then feathering will work fine.

 

[brin]

You will have to power your grapple with either remote hyd, or a diverter valve using the tilt cyl fluid as the source. A selector valve like this would work.

Surplus Center - SAE 8 15 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-1

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117.pdf

If you have remotes at the back, some extra long hoses to the front would work. However, when you are using the loader, the loader uses most all of the fluid. If you use only half of the fluid for the loader, then the other half of the fluid can be used for the grapple.

The diverter/selector valve will let you use either the tilt or the grapple, using a switch on the joystick handle.

Thanks JJ,

I am still confused...I know about tractors but no so much about the hydraulics...My loader Hyd. hoses are plugged into the receptacles on the side of my tractor...so I assume I would have to add more receptacles to plug the grapple into ..I only want the single grapple that welds to the top of the FEL - I want to keep my existing bucket...so I do not want a separate grapple to replace my bucket...

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks JJ,

I am still confused...I know about tractors but no so much about the hydraulics...My loader Hyd. hoses are plugged into the receptacles on the side of my tractor...so I assume I would have to add more receptacles to plug the grapple into ..I only want the single grapple that welds to the top of the FEL - I want to keep my existing bucket...so I do not want a separate grapple to replace my bucket...

You can use rear remotes if you have them on your tractor. As you have a DK45se you must have at least one set in the rear. It is controlled with the spring loaded lever that is to the right of the FEL joystick. That will allow you to "feather" the hydraulic flow so you can slowly or quickly open or clamp the grapple.

As you have a set of remotes just hook it up to the grapple cylinder by running a couple of 3/8 inch hydraulic lines under the tractor, up the FEL post and to the grapple. You'll need 1/2 inch Pioneer style fittings for the rear remote connection plus adapters to the 3/8 hose. At the front of the tractor you'll need another two sets of connectors for the hose and for the grapple. Lots of descriptions of how to do this on TBN so just search. Takes about thirty minutes and costs about $100 in hoses and fittings.

To get a simple grapple bucket kit, check out "Add A Grapple" or ATI as they both sell nice bolt on kits. You can also just obtain just the upper jaw (the grapple part with hydraulic cylinder) from ebay and then weld or bolt it on to your bucket directly. Just reinforce the bucket mount area.