Adding additional lights

Oscar · Oct 19, 2001

I am curious what additional lights you might have added to your tractor to increase visibility working at night. I recently purchased a L3710 and would like to bush hog into the twilight hrs and beyond but have no light directed back behind the tractor. I know there are a lot of aftermarket lights available but would like hear any responses on what works well for location on tractor, and any advise on what brands or other experiences you may have encountered.
Thanks,

Craig

Bird · Oct 19, 2001

Craig, I know this has been discussed quite a bit in the past but don't know whether I could find all the old threads and pictures, so I'll just post one picture of mine again (use up Muhammad's computer capacity). My lights look just alike and I bought them from Northern Tool; however, the front one is trapezoidal and the rear one is a floodlight. Works great, when mowing at night, I just aim that front one just ahead of the regular headlight beams, and if I need to work on or change an implement, I switch to the floodlight on the rear. I have a 3-way toggle switch so center is off, forward or backward turns on the front or rear light (can't have both on at the same time and don't need to).

Bird

MikePA · Oct 19, 2001

Speaking of additional lights...What do you all use for lighting when the FEL makes the headlights useless?

Bird · Oct 19, 2001

Mike, that was another reason I put that front light on the front of the canopy; so it would be high enough to shine over the FEL. However, the fact is that the only thing I've done after dark with my tractor is pasture mowing. We don't have snow to move, thank goodness./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bird

RPM · Oct 19, 2001

Hey Bird - is that a vanity mirror you have up next to the trapezoidal worklight on the front of your canopy /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif ?

Patrick

JJT · Oct 19, 2001

The rear fenders of the l3710 have a hole that is perfect for a toggle switch. I mounted 2 trapazoid floods facing forward on the ROPS and 2 yellow fogs and 1 trap flood facing the rear, primarily for snowblowing. All the lights are 55 watt and I used 2 separate feeds and switches, (front and rear). I agree the headlights are useless unless you fully raise the FEL, with the ROPS mounted floods, I never use the headlights. I used u-bolts to mount 2 4' pieces of slotted angle iron so the lights did not require any drilling or welding on the ROPS. All the wire connections are shrink wrapped, 2+ years without a problem. I left wire loop at the ROPS hing so I can still fold the ROPS if needed.

Bird · Oct 19, 2001

Yeah, Patrick, gotta keep my makeup on straight. Don't I look like I have it on?/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

TWINKLE_TOES · Oct 19, 2001

Oscar,

This is one of several threads that Bird referenced:
Work lights
Al

Oscar · Oct 20, 2001

Thanks for all the input. I realize this has probably been discussed to death already but I am new to this forum and my attempts to search for previous threads failed.
Bird, Nice setup - I dont have a canopy but Im sure I can mount mine on the ROPS. Also nice to put a face with the name.
JJT, Would you have any pictures that show your switch and lights?

Thanks,

Craig

JJT · Oct 20, 2001

Sorry, no pictures. A digital camera is on the xmas list. I used 2 pieces of slotted angle iron, 1 in front of the ROPS and the other behind the ROPS just shy of the top. I used 3/8" x4" square u bolts thru the angle iron and the sides of the ROPS. The lights were then dropped thru the slotted angle iron and wired up.

Devildog · Oct 23, 2001

Also I was wondering how many lights can you add before you max out your alternator?
___________________________________________________
Take care all, Jim

2001 B7500 HST 302 Fel R4 Tires, Befco BRB60
Semper Fidelis

fishman · Oct 23, 2001

Hey Bird, I bet you got those lights at Tractor Supply. I picked up three floodlights just like those a couple of months ago for electrofishing boat lights and they work great.

As to the alternator question posed later, I have my three lights hooked up to a battery that is being recharged via a 15 amp 12 volt circuit from a generator. Last weekend on a job, my battery was drained in about 75 minutes of constant on time with the generator running. I guess it might have been discharged somewhat, but it had been topped off the previous weekend. The only other battery drain was the relay to allow the electricity to travel to the booms (anodes).

I can see that this would require a bit more explaining to make my boat setup understandable. I guess I'll just post a picture of my rig in the photo section. My point was that the battery drain of those three lights was likely substantial.

Bird · Oct 23, 2001

John, actually I bought my lights at the Northern Tool store in Garland, but I think Tractor Supply has the same thing. They're 55 watt lights, so you could do the calculating. With 165 watts or approximately 13.75 amps . . .,hmm, reckon you could get the full 15 amps charging through that generator circuit? Since I used the existing wire that Kubota has for the purpose of their optional worklights, and it has a 10 amp fuse, I have mine wired so I can use either front or rear, but never both at the same time, and figure that gives me plenty of "cushion" on the circuit. I couldn't imagine a situation where I would need both on at the same time anyway.

Bird

fishman · Oct 23, 2001

Bird,

You're right, something's fishy /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif here. Looks like I'd better check my battery more closely in the future. Probably better get a backup. . .

RichS · Oct 23, 2001

Here is another link of lights. Both front and rear.

Another thread

Rich S.

Oscar · Oct 30, 2001

After sifting through all the great advise and suggestions on this forum I installed some work lights on my L3710. They work great!!! I ended up using two pieces of 2" angle iron 2 feet long, and 2 square U bolts to mount the angle iron to the ROPS. I installed 2 rear facing halogen flood lights, and 2 front facing trapazoidal lights. These were wired to a 3 position switch mounted on the left fender where there was already a hole. When the switch is flipped forward the trapazoidal lights turn on, when the switch is flipped to the back posistion the flood lights come on. The "work light " circuit is 10 amps and 2 work lights draw approximately 9 amps max. The wires were encased in plastic tubing and mounted to the ROPS with self adhesive clips I found at Walmart. The lamps came from TSC, and the switch from Radio Shack. Thanks to all for the help on this project. I have a couple of pictures, however they are somewhat dark as they were taken last night after work. The time change has all but eliminated my chances for getting things done during daylight hours now. It is dark when I get home from work at 5:30pm.

MikePA · Nov 1, 2001

Any idea where I can get the other half of the connector shown in the attached picture?

It's at the end of two wires that come out of the wire sheath that also carries the two wires to the right hand orange flasher light. It has power when the ignition switch is on. I'd like to use it to power my flood lights at the rear of the tractor.

Thanks.

TerryinMD · Nov 1, 2001

Mike,

Try an auto parts store or electrical supply. Looks common enought.

Or go to your blue dealer and pay a lot more. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Terry

Anonymous Poster · Nov 1, 2001

Very common... any auto parts will have it... even WalMart automotive electrical dept should... by "3M" I believe.

Also look in the trailer wiring sections... it's the same male/female plug...

njrqs · Nov 1, 2001

Gee Mike, we also use them in Australia. Not that I have seen one for a while.

Yep an auto parts store or I think Radio Shack has them (We call Radio Shack - Tandy Electronics) But all the parts have Radio Shack on them...........

Cheers

<font color=blue>Neil from OZ.</font color=blue>