Adding air to a loaded tire

[Soundguy]

my rec, for a gauge on a liquid tire, is to use a grease gun hose coupled to a gauge, with a tire valve end on the hose.

the liquid will never hit the gauge.

I have oil pressure gauges with whips like this for checking tractors. many times i go look at tractors with no gauge, and it's easy to pull an old sendor or plug, thread int he gauge on a hose with an adapter if needed, then check pressure. here's the one i use, and this is an actual pic of me using it on a farmall C i bought at auction that had no gauge!

 

[pat32rf]

If your tire has been filled up to the 12 oclock valve stem (and even a little over) with water/beet juice/wwaf/calcium, etc it will still leave a good amount of air up above the valve. It takes a lot of work to get a tire so full of liquid that there is not "enough" air in it. Just because you get liquid when you hit the valve, you don't know if you are 1/4" or 1" above that valve. The chances of being 10" above are virtually nil....
Just look at the profile and add air until the sidewall looks good with the full treadwidth flat on the pavement....You might only need 6-10 psi to achieve this...

 

[Reg]

General belief is that you can get to 75% or so with the tire mounted vertically, according to the profile.
If you want to put yourself to a bit of trouble you can get quite a lot more in by dismounting the wheel and laying it down with the valve area of the rim on a block of wood to get it as high as possible.
About a 6x6 block of wood, or if you used an engine crane for safety reasons to take the wheel off, you could dangle it with that.

A marginal gain, the added weight is probably not worth the harsher ride.
BTW, Ag tires typically take 30% or so less volume than turfs and Industrials - for class 1 compacts, between the factory offered alternatives.

 

[JackOfMany]

Bumping an old thread to ask a follow-up question. I was having the same problem as the OP with an inability to check the pressure in my tires due to high pressure stream of fluid shooting out even with the valves at the 12 o'clock position. So, I put the tractor up on jack stands, removed the valve cores and let the fluid drain... for nearly an hour. Once the valves were free of fluid; I ran a small gauge bottle brush in them to clean out, then gave them a burst of air, and re-seated the valve cores.

As soon as I added air pressure to the tires; they started leaking around the edges of the valve base, like it was not properly sealing the rubber to the inside of the rim. I tightened the knurled nut on the valve body as tight as I could but it's still leaking air like a screen door on a submarine. Can I replace the entire valves without removing the wheels and taking them in to a tire shop?

Photos of my valve bodies.

 

[LouNY]

^^^^^Do you know if your tires are tubed or tubeless,
If tubed when you had it jacked up and draining it could have gotten air between the tube and the tire,
as you add air to the tube it has to push that air out someplace and around the base of the valve stem is about the only place.

 

[JackOfMany]

^^^^^Do you know if your tires are tubed or tubeless,
If tubed when you had it jacked up and draining it could have gotten air between the tube and the tire,
as you add air to the tube it has to push that air out someplace and around the base of the valve stem is about the only place.

They are two piece, tubeless type valves and I recall the tire shop that installed them telling me tubeless.