Adding an extra valve to my Jinma FEL

[Ricks284]

If there is no PB port on the loader valve, and the valve's tank port is plumbed to the 3pt, then the valve may be one where the tank port can handle full system pressure. In which case you don't need a new valve with PB port, you can use the line from the tank port to run your 3rd function. I would look up the valve's specs just to be sure.

That's the way this FEL valve is plumbed -- full system pressure to the tank port, which is what feeds the diverter valve (for both steering and 3pt). By coincidence, the spools in my FEL valve just stopped working yesterday, but the open center still feeds full pressure to the diverter valve, and everything else works fine. I'm sick of messing with this one -- time for a new valve!

I wound up just going with an electric divertor valve tied in to my curl function. I decided to not spend the extra money for an actual third function valve just because it was a few hundred dollars more, and I didn't want the hassle of messing with the FEL valve at all, and it was just not worth the extra expense to me. I haven't installed it yet as it is just supposed to get here later today or tomorrow, but it looks easy enough.
Still trying to figure out if it better to tie in to the curl or lift circuit though. No matter what I do, I can only run one at time anyway, so most likely staying with the curl circuit.

Gotcha -- that actually sounds like the easiest way to go for you. I'd probably do the same thing if my FEL valve wasn't so bad.

I'm just learning how 3rd function circuits work, so I have a question about using the curl circuit. When you press the button to activate the grapple, do you need to push the FEL joystick over to the curl position in order to get flow to the electric diverter valve?

Thanks,

 

[LouNY]

With a diverter on the bucket curl function yes. One way to close the other to open.

 

[Ricks284]

With a diverter on the bucket curl function yes. One way to close the other to open.

Okay, so the loader joystick actually controls the grapple open/close direction? Does that mean that switching the electric diverter valve would only need one button?

That sounds like it would really simplify the new hydraulic lines for the 3rd function -- all the connections could be done with short hoses at the front of the FEL frame, rather than running hoses or hard lines all the way back to the FEL valve area. This is really helpful because I'm trying to decide whether to buy a 2-spool or 3-spool FEL valve. It would be a lot easier running wires to the front of the frame rather than new hydraulic lines.

Rick in WA -- I hope it's okay to ask this here -- is this helpful to you or should I start a new thread instead? I think going with the electric diverter valve for your loader was definitely the way to go.

 

[LouNY]

I much prefer a diverter plumbed into the bucket circuit, mounted up on the loader cross arm behind the bucket.
Short lines, simple, controlable, one button to use. And your loader curl control is easy to modulate and adjust.
A true third function needs two buttons both of which are on/off no modulation or control for a gentle squeeze.

 

[Ricks284]

I just looked through previous threads and found this one:

No pressure to grapple

It describes the one-button diverter valve added to the bucket curl circuit and has a photo of the installation. This is probably the way I'll go when adding a grapple.

 

[ericm979]

Okay, so the loader joystick actually controls the grapple open/close direction? Does that mean that switching the electric diverter valve would only need one button?

Yep.

Most CUT loader valves have regen on the dump. Usually its beyond a mild detent and sometimes it's active for any dump. It's there because otherwise a heavy load in the bucket pulls the curl cylinders out during dump causing cavitation. Which causes floppy bucket syndrome. Regen works by sending fluid to both sides of the piston. That works for loaders dumping the bucket because the cylinder is extending, and the area for the fluid to push on is greater on the cylinder side than the rod side because the rod takes up space. And there's the weight of the bucket and its contents pulling the cylinder out.

However with a grapple there is no weight on the lids. And you want maximum clamping force from them for when you're lifting large logs. Well, I do anyhow.

I think the normal way to plumb the diverter is so that dump closes the lids. Which means that the clamping force will be less with a regen loader valve because there is pressure on the rod side of the piston. You could stay out of regen (on the loader valves where its a detent) but it's a little weird that pushing the lever over farther would result in less clamping force.

Of course if you plumbed the diverter into the raise/lower circuit you'd avoid all this. At the cost of possibly a less intuitive user interface.

That sounds like it would really simplify the new hydraulic lines for the 3rd function -- all the connections could be done with short hoses at the front of the FEL frame, rather than running hoses or hard lines all the way back to the FEL valve area. This is really helpful because I'm trying to decide whether to buy a 2-spool or 3-spool FEL valve. It would be a lot easier running wires to the front of the frame rather than new hydraulic lines.

It's not hard to run hoses. I use an old garden hose to mock up the routing before ordering.

 

[Rick in WA]

I am still waiting for the hoses to show up before installing this as it will affect a little where my mounting holes will be, because the feed into the new valve is a short hose with not a lot of bending room, without too much strain. I looked a the valve inputs wrong before I ordered the hoses, so I might need to change things a little bit.
The valve will be mounted on top of the bracket for the existing loader valve. The curl lines will be taken off of the loader valve and just rerouted to the divertor valve, then new hoses will be installed on the divertor valve to go to my grapple.
This is a Summit kit, and seems pretty easy to do.
Yes, my understanding of how it works is I have to keep the button pushed on the new handle installed on the loader valve, and then use the curl circuit to open and close the grapple. It will be a bit of a hassle to not be able to use the curl at the same time, but it is not that big of a deal for the cost.

Rick in WA -- I hope it's okay to ask this here -- is this helpful to you or should I start a new thread instead? I think going with the electric diverter valve for your loader was definitely the way to go.

Not a problem staying on this thread. Hope this helps.
Rick

 

[TTTTTT]

A little late to the thread. I did this for my DF354. 14 years later still works perfect. My intentions was also for a grapple. Never hooked one up but for my snowplow angling. Perfect

Front QD Mod/Plow Hookup- VIDEO

Hi All, For all the hydraulic experts, I am still a bit of a novice so I welcome any comments on the setup that don't seem right or could lead to problems. At this point everything works as it should and I am happy with the setup. For the plow mod, I wanted angle control, but this was just an...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Ricks284]

Not a problem staying on this thread. Hope this helps.

Thanks -- it definitely helps.

Hope your hoses finally showed up, and any new fittings you need are easy to get.

I was waiting on hoses too, for my new FEL valve. After they arrived, all the elbows wouldn't physically fit on the valve. So now I'm waiting on adapters...

Good luck with the install!