3-Point Hitch Adding Attachments (how big is too big)

WaterDawg · Mar 3, 2014

So I use to own/operate a Full Size New Holland LB75b Backhoe/Loader. I didn't deal with attachments. I just dug dirt, move dirt or loaded dirt.

Now that I have a tractor and access to all these neat attachments, how do I know what is too big for my rig?

I know I have a Class 1 - 3 Point Hitch, but I can still get small and large attachments.

Here are some things I'm looking at though I am hoping to find used ones first.

Landscape Rake w/wheels for spreading gravel and topsoil. (or do I not need wheels?)

There is only 20 lbs difference in weigh and $20 difference in price

Then there is the Scraper Bade

Only 16 lbs difference and $70 in price, but you can see, one looks much better built.

Finally, I'm trying to decide the best way to move boat trailers.
Off the 3 Point hitch with one of these?
CountyLine® Trailer Mover - Tractor Supply Co.

or off the bucket with one of these?

I do like the idea of a hitch on the rear and I could modify it to hold Suitcase weights. While having the hitch on the bucket will make moving boats and docks much easier.

kebo · Mar 3, 2014

Most folks here generally agree that 5hp per ft is a good rule of thumb. That would mean for your 25hp tractor, you should generally use 5ft implements on it. Of course, you can go bigger but then you may start pushing some limits and may or may not get the desired performance with 6ft implements. You'll have to use your own best judgement, though, as to what size you end up with.

For trailers, there are many options out there, if you do some searching in the "customization" or "build it yourself" forums. Some people weld a bracket for a ball on the back of the box blade, some people use the "handy hitch" style that attaches to the 3pt. And some others build custom brackets for a ball to mount to the top of the bucket. It doesn't really cost much to do it either way (for front or rear), so if I were you, I would do just that! Set it up so you can hook a trailer to the front or back, and then you have both options!!

WaterDawg · Mar 3, 2014

kebo said:
Most folks here generally agree that 5hp per ft is a good rule of thumb. That would mean for your 25hp tractor, you should generally use 5ft implements on it. Of course, you can go bigger but then you may start pushing some limits and may or may not get the desired performance with 6ft implements. You'll have to use your own best judgement, though, as to what size you end up with.

For trailers, there are many options out there, if you do some searching in the "customization" or "build it yourself" forums. Some people weld a bracket for a ball on the back of the box blade, some people use the "handy hitch" style that attaches to the 3pt. And some others build custom brackets for a ball to mount to the top of the bucket. It doesn't really cost much to do it either way (for front or rear), so if I were you, I would do just that! Set it up so you can hook a trailer to the front or back, and then you have both options!!

Thanks on that tip of 5hp per foot...that helps a lot!

Yeah, I have a feeling I will end up with a hitch on the bucket and the rear especially if I will be adding suitcase weights.
I think to just pull the trailers around, the rear is best, but to park them or launch the boats, the bucket is the best.

RG1 · Mar 3, 2014

Everyone has their opinion, so here's mine.

I don't agree with the 5 HP per foot rule. I have owned several different CUT's of varying HP. The biggest thing IME is the weight you have to work with rather than the HP, at least when it comes to most non PTO driven implements. A 25 HP CUT will have no problem running a 6' rear blade or landscape rake, but when you get to the box blades, the weight of the tractor makes a big difference. I wouldn't go over a 5' model where they are concerned simply because traction can be a problem long before HP is. It will also depend heavily on the terrain you are working. If you have a SCUT with 25HP, then weight really makes a difference along with the tires you use.

chim · Mar 4, 2014

RG1 said:
Everyone has their opinion, so here's mine.

I don't agree with the 5 HP per foot rule. I have owned several different CUT's of varying HP. The biggest thing IME is the weight you have to work with rather than the HP, at least when it comes to most non PTO driven implements. A 25 HP CUT will have no problem running a 6' rear blade or landscape rake, but when you get to the box blades, the weight of the tractor makes a big difference. I wouldn't go over a 5' model where they are concerned simply because traction can be a problem long before HP is. It will also depend heavily on the terrain you are working. If you have a SCUT with 25HP, then weight really makes a difference along with the tires you use.

Well said. I was running 5' RFM's on two tractors and there was a large difference because of the weight of the mowers. The Ford 1210 (12.5 PTO HP) handles a 5' Caroni finish mower with ease. The Kubota B7500 (16 PTO HP) ran a Landpride 5' mower just fine. I swapped the decks to see how they would work on each tractor.

The Kubota felt like the Caroni deck wasn't even there, but the Ford struggled with the heavier Landpride deck. Even with a pair of suitcase weights the Ford was handled by the Landpride. It didn't like dragging the deck uphill. The few extra HP of the Kubota were needed for the heavier Landpride deck. The front wheels were too light to steer well with the deck raised. The weight of the tractor and its distribution really com into play.

john_bud · Mar 4, 2014

On the back blades, you aught to be about 6-12" wider than the rear tires WHEN ITS ANGLED. Very important. You may need a 7' blade. But the 6 may be ok. If you have a welder, putting a 2"x1/4" angle iron on the back full length will add weight and strength.

The 5hp guide, is good for pto powered implement, but don't expect that to be perfect. The other guide is on tractor weight, 500 # per implement ft. So a 2500 pound tractor will be happy with 5' wide implements. But its an even looser of a guide as things like tire type (turf, ind, ag), filled tires, 2wd / 4wd, etc can change things.

In general, I buy with implement weight as a primary factor. Especially for ground engaging implements of the same width, heavier is always better unless you can't move it!

Gary Fowler · Mar 4, 2014

I also agree with Chim and RG1 that the 5 foot rule has nothing to do with implements other than PTO powered and even then 5 foot per HP is very conservative and based on tough use for bush hogs.
The previous owner of my B26 (19 PTO HP) used a 5 foot bush hog with ease cutting really tall grass and weeds but again, the type of mowing and the type of grass and weeds determines the HP needed and/or the speed that you can travel with the mower. The weight of the implement AND what you are doing with it will largely determine the size.

I am with Tim the Tool man Taylor in that it cant get too heavy for an implement as long as your tractor can lift and carry it without loosing front end steerage. The one thing with implement size that needs to be observed is that it needs to cover your tractors wheel spacing. For blades, that would be even when angled they need to be as wide as the tractor.

When buying a blade, the best ones are the ones that not only tilt and swivel but swing side to side. The cheaper ones are only going to swivel in the horizontal plane and depend on you to crank the right hand side of your lift arm leveling to get tilt and wont have any swing movement. Swing is good for keeping the blade point at just the outside of your tractor tire when digging a ditch, other wise it makes it really hard. You will pay a lot more for a model that does all that but if you plan to ditch with it or even do snow removal, the swing option that allows you to position the blade end outside the edge of your tires is a very good option to have.

WaterDawg · Mar 4, 2014

Thanks ...I feel like a sponge absorbing all this fun info. :thumbsup:

GManBart · Mar 4, 2014

The 5' rule works pretty well for rotary cutters (brush hogs), but not the other implements you mentioned. I ran a 6' landscape rake, and 6' scrap blade on my old Ford 8N with no problems at all. I think it would have run a 6' finish mower without any problems, but never tried it.