Adding D rings to this trailer

[tommu56]

No, I just traced around the D-rings onto the wood deck, then "freehanded" with the router and a 3/4" flat bottom bit with 1/2" shank. Not exactly the quality of an Amish artisan...there are a couple of minor "drifts" if you look really close, but it is amply sufficient for the intended use.

Just tell them the extras cut outs are finger holes that is my story and I'm sticking to it.

tom

 

[Diamondpilot]

FYI, I recently transported several vehicles on my trailer...I was fixing donated vehicles to give to local Afghan refugee families...and used chain going through these D-rings. My chains are only 16' long and I only have 3, so I couldn't "cross" the chains when holding the cars. As a result, when the suspension bounced on the car, it gave a pretty harsh tug on these rings. I'm pleased to say that after some 100 miles of transporting various cars around our local roads, the cars stayed safely affixed and there was absolutely no movement/deformation of the rings or mounts. I was very pleased in how they performed.

Just for further towing you should never hook a vehicle by the chassis unless you can compress the suspension. A much better way is to attach to the A-arms or axle out near each tire. This will allow the suspension of the vehicle to work and will keep you from breaking a strap, chain, or tie down point on the trailer or vehicle.

Chris

 

[jcummins]

I added spacers the same width of the angle iron, then capped it all the way around the trailer, with 3 1/2 flat stock. In effect it gave me tie points all around the trailer except for the fenders and the rear of the trailer. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I picked up some d-rings at harbor Freight for about $5 each. They are rated for 10,000 lbs each. I bolted them on the top rail with some high strength bolts. They seem to work well.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I picked up some d-rings at harbor Freight for about $5 each. They are rated for 10,000 lbs each. I bolted them on the top rail with some high strength bolts. They seem to work well.

I hope you did not bolt them to the top rail of a landscape trailer then secure any type of rolling load? It would be ok to secure light items like building materials and non rolling loads from the top rail but nothing else.

Chris

 

[KeithInSpace]

Just for further towing you should never hook a vehicle by the chassis unless...

I figured that out the slow way. Never broke anything, but I can see how easy it is. I tried to pull on the suspension, but couldn't pull that hard from the odd angles.

If I get back into the car-carrying business, I may add some rings nearer the wheel track of a typical car so I can use tire webbing. Something will change, though. At least I could do it in a pinch, though. I was pretty impressed with myself...even added a winch to the front to pull up a car that wouldn't run. Worked perfect.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I did, in fact, bolt them near the corner on each end above the bracing. I think I see your concern. I have not seen any flex on the rail when tightening the chain. My Bush Hog locks into the front rail when lowered for a very secure brace but It is not always on the tractor. I may rethink the rear anchor points as they are less sturdy due to the tailgate. I like the rod bracing. That would have to be very handy.

 

[LBrown59]

No one in my area (speaking for lanscapers/mowers people)including the local Cub Cadet dealer I know ties anything down on landscape trailers. *Right or wrong thats the facts.

Probably illegal.

 

[KeithInSpace]

Probably illegal.

So's the guy driving the landscape company truck...that's the great thing about A'murica...you can do pretty much whatever you want as long as you go the speed limit.