Adding length to loading ramps

[Chain Bender]

Have a B3200 tractor. Loading this little tractor with a disc or bush hog really seems to put the top link in a bind. Not to mention tearing up the yard with the disc and almost bending the supports from the top link to the center of the bush hog deck. Had an accident yesterday that could have been deadly, but luckily was just a BVD Stainer!

I'm now of the opinion that the top link "floating yolk" on the bush hog was installed backwards, not allowing much flex in the link when the rear wheels of the tractor went down or the tire on the bush hog went up. This caused me to slip completely off the ramps yesterday. I managed to get the front tires off the trailer and safely on the ground with some blocks and 2X12's.

Have since reversed the yolk on the bush hog, but I still want to add at least 18" to the ramps to lessen the angle on the ramps.

Headed out to get some of the same angle iron they are made out of to do this project. Main frame is 2X3X 3/16" and treads and supports are 2X2X.125. My question is how much angle to I need to weld onto the existing ramps to be safe and not risk breaking/tearing a weld loose. I was thinking 18" longer and 18" welded on to the existing ramp frame (36" total). Too much, not enough?

Any suggestions?

thanks in advance,
Chain Bender

 

[rimshot]

Do you really have to add length? Try this first. I jacked up the bottom of my ramp by making a plate of 2x10's designed to raise the tires up 3" before loading the ramp. The modification worked perfect for me.

rimshot

 

[flusher]

For just 18" extension, go with Rimshot's idea.

 

[Snaker]

I'm not a fan of extending ramps without some kind of extra ground support. Manufactered ramps are often at the max of support strength already.
Rimshot has a simple and cheap fix. I saw somebody do similar with metal car ramps. One thing about the two piece ramps through is to be careful about the main ramp moving around as the trailer is loaded. You want a large enough and stable base so the ramp doesn't slip off. I would even consider some kind of pin connection between the pieces.
If you do this often, its worth making a good, secure setup.
In a pinch, I have replaced the top link with a come-along to raise the rear higher. I've only had to do that on light equipment. Can't say about heavier equipment.

 

[Snaker]

Have a B3200 tractor. Loading this little tractor with a disc or bush hog really seems to put the top link in a bind. Not to mention tearing up the yard with the disc and almost bending the supports from the top link to the center of the bush hog deck. Had an accident yesterday that could have been deadly, but luckily was just a BVD Stainer!

I'm now of the opinion that the top link "floating yolk" on the bush hog was installed backwards, not allowing much flex in the link when the rear wheels of the tractor went down or the tire on the bush hog went up. This caused me to slip completely off the ramps yesterday. I managed to get the front tires off the trailer and safely on the ground with some blocks and 2X12's.

Have since reversed the yolk on the bush hog, but I still want to add at least 18" to the ramps to lessen the angle on the ramps.

Headed out to get some of the same angle iron they are made out of to do this project. Main frame is 2X3X 3/16" and treads and supports are 2X2X.125. My question is how much angle to I need to weld onto the existing ramps to be safe and not risk breaking/tearing a weld loose. I was thinking 18" longer and 18" welded on to the existing ramp frame (36" total). Too much, not enough?

Any suggestions?

thanks in advance,
Chain Bender

I just wanted to comment on your floating link. You might be just overdoing what the link can handle with the ramp angle. I would suggest searching for a picture (manual, internet, similar brands) or checking with a dealer.

 

[rimshot]

(Manufactered ramps are often at the max of support strength already.
Rimshot has a simple and cheap fix. I saw somebody do similar with metal car ramps.) (Snaker)
===========

My trailer is a 16' car trailer. The first time I loaded my tractor those car ramps really bowed. I believe if I was to load a car aboard the trailer the front wheels would be safely aboard the trailer deck before the ramp got the weight of the back axle. With my CC-20 fitted with FEL and backhoe both axles are on the ramp and at 4000 lbs rolling up that ramp was tooo much so far as I was concerned nnot to mention to steep and the bottom of the backhoe boom was dragging too much.

In addition to the fact I had to fashion the ground plate for the base of the ramp, I felt I had better chok the center as well. this is the simple chok I came up with and it stiff legs the center of the ramp perfectly by allowing the ramp to only deflect slightly. I found that if I just placed it ahead a very slight bit the ramp was then allowed to deflect just a bit making the bottom and trailer hook grab much better. Placed tightly and the ramp wants to teeter off. Youi need some deflection for this not too happen.

I always place jackstands at each rear corner. Use parking brakes and park on th towing truck and lock trailer hitch when trailer is mounted.

A longer ramp would have definitely folded for me.

rimshot

 

[Chain Bender]

I just wanted to comment on your floating link. You might be just overdoing what the link can handle with the ramp angle. I would suggest searching for a picture (manual, internet, similar brands) or checking with a dealer.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I stopped by the Kubota dealership where I bought the tractor and bush hog this morning. I went out back and looked at 11 bush hogs just like mine and they were all set up the way mine was when it made me slip off the ramps yesterday. On the bottom end of the yolk there is a 1.25" C 1" thick metal block welded on about half way or the middle of the yolk. When the legs of the yold are straight up this block hits agains the frame/bolt about 3 inches below it. That is what is stopping the link from allowing the bush hog to rise any further. Maybe that block is there to keep from over loading the lift arms if something (bush hog) tries to raise them too high.

I had the tractor in 4 wheel low as I always do when loading or unloading. Not sure if that was a blessing or mistake. I was doing my best to keep the front tires in line with the 2X8 on the trailer that is in line with the ramps and watch the rear tires too. I think the front tires pushing backwards against the rear of the bush hog over loaded the link and actually lifted the rear tires off the ramps or took enough weight off of them that the push from the front tires made the slip off as if they were the pivot between the front tires and the bottomed out hush hog tire.

The ramps are flip ups that stay on the trailer (unless I unpin them and slide a 1.5" pipe out of them. They are braced straight under the trailer in the down position and are also braced at an anlge from the bottom of this to the middle of the upper frame. If I add length to them I will certainly brace them again as I understand the longer the weaker and wheel bases. I wasn't wanting to have to tote blocks of wood around to load or unload the tractor.

thanks for the above input and any more that might come along.

CB

 

[Snaker]

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I stopped by the Kubota dealership where I bought the tractor and bush hog this morning. I went out back and looked at 11 bush hogs just like mine and they were all set up the way mine was when it made me slip off the ramps yesterday. On the bottom end of the yolk there is a 1.25" C 1" thick metal block welded on about half way or the middle of the yolk. When the legs of the yold are straight up this block hits agains the frame/bolt about 3 inches below it. That is what is stopping the link from allowing the bush hog to rise any further. Maybe that block is there to keep from over loading the lift arms if something (bush hog) tries to raise them too high.

I had the tractor in 4 wheel low as I always do when loading or unloading. Not sure if that was a blessing or mistake. I was doing my best to keep the front tires in line with the 2X8 on the trailer that is in line with the ramps and watch the rear tires too. I think the front tires pushing backwards against the rear of the bush hog over loaded the link and actually lifted the rear tires off the ramps or took enough weight off of them that the push from the front tires made the slip off as if they were the pivot between the front tires and the bottomed out hush hog tire.

The ramps are flip ups that stay on the trailer (unless I unpin them and slide a 1.5" pipe out of them. They are braced straight under the trailer in the down position and are also braced at an anlge from the bottom of this to the middle of the upper frame. If I add length to them I will certainly brace them again as I understand the longer the weaker and wheel bases. I wasn't wanting to have to tote blocks of wood around to load or unload the tractor.

thanks for the above input and any more that might come along.

CB

I've left the top link off to get float on mine and had the front corners of the mower catch on a tree root. The back end of the mower flipped up in the air. I'm guessing thats what that block is for on you yolk.

 

[UnclePaul]

If the primary use of this trailer is for your tractor. I might think about spending a little more money and building a whole new set of ramps.

 

[sandman2234]

I use aluminum ramps and had the same problem, so I welded a piece of 3" diameter pipe to the bottom end to raise it just a little. Really worked well, and along the same principal as using a block, except I don't have to mess with anything except the ramp. If you decide to add to your existing ramps, consider putting the extension at an angle instead of straight, and it will allow for a shorter extension.
David from jax

 

[boggen]

trailer i have came with i want to say 10 foot ramps. they guy that built the trailer used it to pull his stock cars. and with low clearance on them. i am assuming it was needed.

it was made out of say 3/4" maybe 1? square stock metal. and then welded each ram up. to basically look like an extension ladder. then welded a light grating over that.

i do know they weight a good amount would say, 80lbs each. maybe 100lbs each.

================
you could prolly contact any local trailer dealer. or contact trailer company, and possibly switch out/trade in or buy a longer set of ramps.

================
at your place of business / home. i would make a loading ramp. pour a concrete footer for some concrete blocks to set on. with some rebar in them. then fill up behind the short wall with some dirt. so you can back trailer up. and if need be put the ramps down (if ya backed up trailer off angle a little bit.

you might get away with just some dirt and ramps.

granted above only solves business / home. but hopefully were ever you going, has a hill side you can back up into, to unload.

 

[Chain Bender]

I use aluminum ramps and had the same problem, so I welded a piece of 3" diameter pipe to the bottom end to raise it just a little. Really worked well, and along the same principal as using a block, except I don't have to mess with anything except the ramp. If you decide to add to your existing ramps, consider putting the extension at an angle instead of straight, and it will allow for a shorter extension.
David from jax

XXXXXXXXXX

That makes sense and would use a lot less materials.

meanwhile. I nailed three 28" pieces of pressure treated 2X12 together and cut them in the middle at a pretty sharp angle. Provides a 4.5+" lift to the end of the ramp. Each weighs about 15-20# and were made from scrap laying in the wood pile. Will try these for awhile or until I forget and drive off and leave them somewhere or they bounce off the trailer on the road.

Thanks for all the input.

Chain Bender

 

[chucko]

adding length is easy. Just put some kind of support legs at the end of the old ramp let's say about a foot tall and then add the new rampss to the end of the old one. You can even make the new one fold up and over the old one

 

[Jay4200]

I needed to get a solid 6" of lift so that my backhoe would clear the ground. The required ramp extensions would've been too long to make flip-up storage practical - I would've had to double the length of the ramps.

I ended up making some sub-ramps out of 2x12s that lifted the base of the trailer ramp and extended the effective ramp length. I put handles on them so they are easy to lift and carry.

This way, the front of the tractor doesn't start to climb the trailer ramp until the rear wheels are up on the wood, eliminating the 'hoe bucket grounding problem.

JayC

 

[Chain Bender]

I needed to get a solid 6" of lift so that my backhoe would clear the ground. The required ramp extensions would've been too long to make flip-up storage practical - I would've had to double the length of the ramps.

I ended up making some sub-ramps out of 2x12s that lifted the base of the trailer ramp and extended the effective ramp length. I put handles on them so they are easy to lift and carry.

This way, the front of the tractor doesn't start to climb the trailer ramp until the rear wheels are up on the wood, eliminating the 'hoe bucket grounding problem.

JayC

XXXXXXXXXX

How far off the ground are your ramp supports directly under the end of the trailer? Looks like your rear springs are going to take a heck of a load before the weight starts to shift forward onto the front axle and bumper. Looks to me like about 8-9 inches before the supports hit the ground and start carrying any weight. How many boards did you nail/screw/glue together? I count at least 4.

CB

 

[sandman2234]

XXXXXXXXXX

That makes sense and would use a lot less materials.

meanwhile. I nailed three 28" pieces of pressure treated 2X12 together and cut them in the middle at a pretty sharp angle. Provides a 4.5+" lift to the end of the ramp. Each weighs about 15-20# and were made from scrap laying in the wood pile. Will try these for awhile or until I forget and drive off and leave them somewhere or they bounce off the trailer on the road.

Thanks for all the input.

Chain Bender

Thanks for the vote of confidence.... a piece of 3" aluminum pipe weighs very little and can be bolted to the end of the ramp so you don't forget it. My donor MIGHT have been an old street sign pole somebody crashed into. Don't remember for sure!!
If you decide to do the
/----
to the end of the ramp, be sure to throw a reinforcement down the side to keep it from bending, or just make it a box affair. If the pipe will work, it weighs less.
David from jax

 

[Djames55]

I would just dove tail about 2 ft of that trailer and problem solved. Just cut that angle iron on the side only not all the way through bottom . Then cut the decking boards. Weld a 1/4or 3/8" diamond shape flat bar piece to the side you cut. make it about 6" long and the same size as the side of the angle iron. Then add a flat piece of 1/8 x 6" across the decking boards to keep them in place. Use carriage bolts to hold decking boards to flat piece of metal. weld it only at the angle iron at the side of the trailer. If you need to ever replace the decking boards you just grind the welds off. Replace the boards and re-weld. If you need pictures of my trailer I dove tailed I will try and post some. Just let me know.

 

[Skyco]

A simple solution I've used a few times- take a set of car ramps, the ones used for pulling a car on for, say, an oil change. Everyone has those probably...the plastic ones are really light.
Pull the back of the tow vehicle up on them, voila, much lower rear of trailer for loading.