Adding lines for root grapple

[k0ua]

What you see in the photo's is 5 males, and 3 female connectors, and 2 right angle adaptors all 1/2 inch. on 1/2 inch hydraulic hoses. the rear hoses are 72 inch, and the fronts were 108 inches. But I would do things different. I would use 3/8 inch hoses, and probably use adapters for the front and rear connections, and I would not use the 1/2 AG connectors in the middle, I would use some 3/8 quick connects in the center. You have to use the 1/2 AG males in the rear of course. As for the front connectors I would still probably use the 1/2 Ag's but you could use something else like the flat face if you wanted to. The 1/2 inch hose is harder to route, just stiffer to work with, and you really don't need it for the grapple.

As for the length, I suggest you take an old 1/2 inch garden hose and play with the hose routes on the tractor and you can make marks on it to measure your best route around the parts and pieces of the tractor. I ordered the hoses in standard lengths from surplus center. I might have used JIC fittings also instead of NPT because you can get bulkhead connectors for that front connection thru the bracket in JIC. I used home made copper crush washers instead. I hope this helps you.

You can see how my thinking evolved in this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...connects-loader-torque.html?highlight=grapple

 

[ovrszd]

I totally agree with James on the hose size. Much easier to work with. And you don't have a high flow requirement to just run a Grapple.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I threaded a piece of heavy rope through to measure necessary hose lengths, otherwise, I did it pretty much like James, except for using 3/8" hose and flat-face couplers on the front end...these allow better mating with skid steer implements and open/close lever operation stays the same each hookup.

 

[kennyd]

For grapples, plows, and 4n1 buckets 1/4" hose works perfectly.

 

[gladehound]

Thanks everyone for the advice! Hope to do this once the weather gets warm.

 

[oldtimer 66]

This info is for TimBuck2. The control valve is a Prince RD412BA5A2B1 with a power beyond cartridge 660280001. I modified the handle as shown. The valve is mounted on the bottom side of the Woods control valve bracket after being modified. The valve and all of the hardware was
spec out by the tractor owner. He did at one time teach hydraulics classes, so he is my go to guy for this type of stuff. Hope this helps.

 

[footer200]

hobbie918 I have a 4300 and wanted lines to the front for a grabble and to run hydraulic sliding tines on my forks. The parts from deere to be able to use the third spool on the factory loader valve are pricing for what you get. I intstalled 3 new spool valves (6 rear outlets) for slightly higher price. There is a steel line at the rear of your tractor that comes out from the factory loader valve on the right across the top of the PTO housing and back in the left side (some have a filter and some are just the steel tube) to the factory 3 point hitch valve. This line is the power beyond (full hydrulic flow) from the loader valve to the factory 3 point valve. By removing the steel line you can come out of the factory loader valve with a hydraulic hose to after market spool valves (1, 2, 3, ect.) then out with the power beyond on the new valves back into your factory 3 point hitch valve with hydraulic hose. The only extra line you need to add is a line to tank from the new valve stack. I will add some pics. so you can try to make sense out of it. On the first pic you can see my line going to the tank with the 90 degree fitting to the right of the fill plug. Oh I have a cab so you would mount the valve to the ROPS or make a bracket ect.

 

[murphy1244]

hobbie918 I have a 4300 and wanted lines to the front for a grabble and to run hydraulic sliding tines on my forks. The parts from deere to be able to use the third spool on the factory loader valve are pricing for what you get. I intstalled 3 new spool valves (6 rear outlets) for slightly higher price. There is a steel line at the rear of your tractor that comes out from the factory loader valve on the right across the top of the PTO housing and back in the left side (some have a filter and some are just the steel tube) to the factory 3 point hitch valve. This line is the power beyond (full hydrulic flow) from the loader valve to the factory 3 point valve. By removing the steel line you can come out of the factory loader valve with a hydraulic hose to after market spool valves (1, 2, 3, ect.) then out with the power beyond on the new valves back into your factory 3 point hitch valve with hydraulic hose. The only extra line you need to add is a line to tank from the new valve stack. I will add some pics. so you can try to make sense out of it. On the first pic you can see my line going to the tank with the 90 degree fitting to the right of the fill plug. Oh I have a cab so you would mount the valve to the ROPS or make a bracket ect.

You did a really nice job on that.

 

[Underdog57]

I did pretty much what James suggested, used 3/8 hose & 3/8 couplings in the middle & 1/2 couplings on each end..

Here's a link to mine if you want more ideas,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ls-tractors/324994-ideas-hydraulic-line-routing-ls.html

 

[k0ua]

I did pretty much what James suggested, used 3/8 hose & 3/8 couplings in the middle & 1/2 couplings on each end..

Here's a link to mine if you want more ideas,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ls-tractors/324994-ideas-hydraulic-line-routing-ls.html

You did a very nice job. :thumbsup: