Adding Rear remotes

[J_J]

Glad you got everything worked out.

Thanks for posting back what the problem was. Curios minds need to know.

I still don't know how the 3pt was getting any fluid except when the FEL was being used.

With your FEL levers in neutral, all fluid from the PB port was going to tank, and none downstream.

Low pressure on the 3pt would alert you to a problem.

 

[glukowicz]

Well, everything did work. I used the tractor and rear blade to do some grading 3 weeks ago everything worked perfectly. Today I went out to use it and the FEL and the remote work, but not the 3 pt hitch. When engaging the 3 point hitch the pressure meter does not move.

It has to be something simple, but I can't see it. Can anyone give me an idea?

 

[J_J]

Some tractor have levers or switches to cut the 3pt out of the system.

Some of the people with BH do not have 3pt available , not that they need it. When removing the BH, they have to do something to recover 3pt operation, like switching a hose around or connecting the loop hose.

 

[bulldog69]

I already did the rear remote thing and after reading this thread I'm glad my friend gave me 2 good pieces of advise.

1: "don't over think it"
2: "keep it simple stupid"

Already having a fel on a tractor it is very easy to add as many RR's as you want or need and for cheap. All the hard work is already done because you have a working hyd system.

Take your loader supply and plumb it to the input on the new valve. I didn't even have to make any lines for this step, just rerout one. Next, with a new line come from the output of the new valve back to the input for the loader. You now have a remote valve plumbed. 2 lines coming from the new valve's ports to the rear of the tractor and mount the couplers and you are done. Loader is still full function, rear remotes when needed and the 3pt works like normal. As far as your original hyd system knows nothing was changed. I had already bought the valve and fabricated a mount for it the day before. Mounting everything and making all the lines took maybe 3 or 4 hrs. Total cost was under $300 and that was even using the push in/pull out type couplers like my M series has.

If more than one set of remotes are required just just buy a valve with how ever many controls are needed. 1, 2, 4, it would plumb in the same way. I hope you get yours worked out. Sounds like it's been a real headache for you so far.

 

[J_J]

Even $300 seems high for a single valve, two hoses and some QD's.

 

[bulldog69]

Valve was $130, couplers were $50 or $60 something and lines were around $80 or so. 3 lines total. Together 12 feet of hyd lines.

 

[J_J]

8 GPM remote valve kit, single spool with PB adapter.


REMOTE KIT from Surplus Hyd

One 8 GPM spool valve=$90

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB11B5C1 DA VALVE

One PB adapter=$3

Surplus Center - P-BEYOND & CLOSED CENTER PLUG 8 GPM MB VALVES

2 -12 ft hoses= 2 @$30=$60

Surplus Center - 3/8" X 144" JIC 6F X JIC 6F 4000 PSI HYD HOSE

2-3/8 QD @$16=$32

Surplus Center - 3/8" HYD QUICK COUPLER SAFEWAY S20-3

Total= $185 plus shipping

 

[glukowicz]

For me this was a learning curve. Not knowing the different threads used in hydraulics and the different terms. Learing about open center and how to diagnose a problem. I can see more clearly now that it is very much like plumbing.

The original major problem was having the power beyond and tank lines switched from the FEL valve. The way that valve is labeled, I think any novice could make that mistake. The switching of those lines was also made harder to diagnose because the 3 pt hitch still was working. The 3 pt hitch was downstream of FEL and remote valve. It wasn't until JJ suggested I get a pressure gauge installed that the solution became more obvious. The gauge showed that when the 3 pt hitch was fully engaged, it lost pressure. This revealed the plumbing mistake.

This latest problem is unrelated to installation of remote valve. I installed pressure gauge on tank line and it shows no pressure when engaging 3 pt hitch. So I assume the piston seals are ok. I also replumbed the remote out of the system and the 3 pt hitch still not working. There is a pressure reducing valve for the 3 pt hitch but it is opened and has never been closed. The linkage from the 3 pt hitch is working to where it enters the transmission. I called the mfg tech line and they have not had problems of this sort. There is no other cut off switch other than the pressure reducing valve. I guess this is going to a tractor mechanic, since I am reluctant to open up the transmission.

 

[bulldog69]

Before I took it in I would put everything back to stock and try it. I find it hard to believe that everything worked before the plumbing and then just stopped. I realize that things can break at any time but it seems strange that you are having trouble in the middle of a plumbing job.

 

[glukowicz]

Yeah Bulldog, I tried to say that in my last post. I replumbed to the original. It went from pump to FEL and then 3 pt hitch and 3 pt hitch did not work. From what I understand from the mfg, the lever controls the piston that allows the flow to raise or lower. With the pressure showing 0 on the tank side when lever is moved back and forth, it should mean seals are ok on the piston, otherwise the pressure flow would leak past the seals, if I understood the mfg right. The outside linkage on lever is working and everything else is inside the transmission so I can't see it.

And I agree it seems funny that it happened shortly after completing the remotes and working with them for a couple of hours. Then parking it until the day I found out that the 3 pt hitch was not working. If there is something else someone can tell me to try, I am all for it. I don't want to take it to someone to fix. I do have an honest reasonable mechanic to work on it.