Adding Rear remotes

[bulldog69]

I was thinking of trying to start from square one and have everything extra out of the loop so to speak. If you unhook everything, try the 3pt and it works then you know you have a plumbing problem with either the loader or the remote valve. If the 3pt does happen to work then I would hook up one thing at a time and find out which one is the problem. If the 3pt doesn't work then you know for sure it's the 3pt and not your plumbing. That would be the easiest way to trouble shoot your hydraulic system without it costing you anything but some time. It's easier to me to work with one system at a time so you will know for sure what works and what doesn't. Even though they all should work as one I would still treat them as three different systems until the problem is found.

That being said, this is just my opinion. I'm not a mechanic in no way, shape or form. Just a poor farmer that tries to fix as much of my junk as I can on my on.

 

[glukowicz]

I understand. Most people with tractors probably fix them themselves. I will look at the problem as a plumbing problem again. I am going to try and get a dealer to fax me a parts diagram and hydraulics flow schematic. Then decide from there what to do.

 

[J_J]

glukowicz,

If your new remote, came with the PB screw installed, check and see if it came loose. If it did, you would get no or very little downstream fluid for 3pt operation. The fluid would go to tank through the return port.

You can check correct flow by removing the tank hose and the PB hose. There should be no fluid coming out the tank hose with all valves in neutral. Total pump flow GPM's should be flowing out the PB hose.

This kind of problem has happened before to some of the TBN members, and they found the screw just laying in the end chamber.

All up stream valves should work.

You can also do these checks with air if you put an air port in the IN port of the FEL valve. Then if you remove the remote tank hose and the PB hose, you can determine if the plumbing is correct.

If you have the hyd system plumbed correctly, with air supplied, you should have air coming out the remote PB port. If you are using a valve with PB and you have air coming out the tank hose, the PB mechanical's are not working correcting, meaning loose or missing parts.

 

[glukowicz]

plumbed straight from the pump and it still doesn't work. Going to the mechanic today.

 

[J_J]

So you are saying that you have fluid at the input to the 3pt valve and when you raise the lever up, nothing happens.

One more question, is the descent knob all the way tight or screwed in. If it is, unscrew it several turns.

If you are certain you have hyd flow, that means that the fluid is bypassing the 3pt cyl.

 

[bulldog69]

2 thoughts, if I remember right you installed a tilt cylinder. Does it have your 3pt in a bind?

Do you have anything still hooked to the 3pt? Just thinking it could have air in the system and the 3pt can't lower fully so it can be cycled to help remove the air.

 

[glukowicz]

To JJ:
Yes the descent knob is open and I have tried it half way open also. I am wondering if the rod pushing piston to allow flow to raise the 3 pt hitch, if it's linkage pin came out.

To Bulldog:
I removed the blade and the tilt and tried the 3 pt w/o any difference. And as for air in system, I got RPM's up to 2000 and raised and lowered bucket a number of times. It did nothing, no shutter, just nothing.

The mechanic has it now, I will post what he finds. He is supposed to look at it next week.

 

[bulldog69]

It sux that it couldn't be fixed without the cost of a mechanic but it will be a learning experience to say the least.

 

[JoeBuyer]

I am looking for a hydraulic side link cylinder. I have a Dalton top link with swivel balls on each end, but need a side link with a cat1 swivel ball on the top and clevis on the bottom to attach to the 3pt arm. The other (fixed) link is 19", so I would want a hydraulic side link with a closed 17" lengtsh and full extended length of 21". I find many shorter than this and many longer than this. Anyone have a good source? I really didn't want to assemble one by picking all the parts, but I guess I could.

 

[MrChris]

I already did the rear remote thing and after reading this thread I'm glad my friend gave me 2 good pieces of advise.

1: "don't over think it"
2: "keep it simple stupid"

Already having a fel on a tractor it is very easy to add as many RR's as you want or need and for cheap. All the hard work is already done because you have a working hyd system.

Take your loader supply and plumb it to the input on the new valve. I didn't even have to make any lines for this step, just rerout one. Next, with a new line come from the output of the new valve back to the input for the loader. You now have a remote valve plumbed. 2 lines coming from the new valve's ports to the rear of the tractor and mount the couplers and you are done. Loader is still full function, rear remotes when needed and the 3pt works like normal. As far as your original hyd system knows nothing was changed. I had already bought the valve and fabricated a mount for it the day before. Mounting everything and making all the lines took maybe 3 or 4 hrs. Total cost was under $300 and that was even using the push in/pull out type couplers like my M series has.

If more than one set of remotes are required just just buy a valve with how ever many controls are needed. 1, 2, 4, it would plumb in the same way. I hope you get yours worked out. Sounds like it's been a real headache for you so far.

I know this is about a month old, but just to clarify Bulldog, your output coming out of the new valve back to the loader input is actually a power beyond out from the new valve? The normal out would be a low pressure return. This is what I think gets most people confused!