Adding tilt cylinder to 3 pt

Builder · Oct 9, 2009

MtnViewRanch said:
Builder, if you want to make it yourself, get either a 2 1/2" or 3" cylinder with a 6" stroke. (I would use a 2 1/2" for your Challenger) Take your stationary side link and use the factory ends off of it. Put your adjustable link on the left side and after installing the hydraulic side link on the right, adjust the left side so that both links are level with the hydraulic link extended 3". You are now set and have equal tilt left and right.

I haven't gotten a quote back from CCM yet, but if it's too much $$, I might just make it a DIY job.

Oh, get either a 3rd control valve, or at least a diverter valve, you won't be sorry. I would have figured that you would have had "TnT" already.

I have 2 remotes and can really see now where a 3rd would be handy. When you say a "diverter valve" you mean like splitting one of my remotes so I have a 3rd remote?

MtnViewRanch · Oct 9, 2009

Builder said:
I haven't gotten a quote back from CCM yet, but if it's too much $$, I might just make it a DIY job.

I have 2 remotes and can really see now where a 3rd would be handy. When you say a "diverter valve" you mean like splitting one of my remotes so I have a 3rd remote?

Yes, so you will have a third remote. Do your existing remotes have a float position? I have found that in certain conditions, it is very beneficial to put the side link in float mode. That way the blade will float side to side. We have found that we use the side link more than the hydraulic top link. If you think that this might work for you, then you do not want the side link to have a DPOCV. (check calve)

This side link should cost around $240-$250. Once you use it, you will think ("how did I do this before?") The answer, you didn't.

Builder · Oct 9, 2009

MtnViewRanch said:
Yes, so you will have a third remote.

I'd be interested to see how your's was done. I understand what you mean by splitting a remote (diverting fluid), but is it pactical and fast enough to be able to run all 3 remotes? I'd like to see how you've done your remote diverter (valve mounting, etc. )

Do your existing remotes have a float position? I have found that in certain conditions, it is very beneficial to put the side link in float mode. That way the blade will float side to side. We have found that we use the side link more than the hydraulic top link. If you think that this might work for you, then you do not want the side link to have a DPOCV. (check calve)

I don't think I'd want the side link to float. Also when I'm mowing, I would want the side link to stay "rigid".

This side link should cost around $240-$250. Once you use it, you will think ("how did I do this before?") The answer, you didn't.

That's about the quote I got, too.

MtnViewRanch · Oct 9, 2009

Builder said:
I'd be interested to see how your's was done. I understand what you mean by splitting a remote (diverting fluid), but is it pactical and fast enough to be able to run all 3 remotes? I'd like to see how you've done your remote diverter (valve mounting, etc. )

I currently have 3 factory rear remotes on the 7520,( to be 5 total in the not to distant future) and a diverter valve up front for my grapple. I don't know for a fact that the diverter would be fast enough, but I would think that it would be.

Builder said:
I don't think I'd want the side link to float. Also when I'm mowing, I would want the side link to stay "rigid".

If you cannot see a need for the float, then go with the check valve cylinder, but I would not get a 2" cylinder, get either a 2 1/2" or 3".
You don't ever grade where you transition from one angle-slope to another? Like on a road that has a Y in it and when you turn off of the main road to the side road the slope of the road goes off in the opposite direction. That is a good instance where the side float works very well.

Builder said:
That's about the quote I got, too.

Was that for a 2" cylinder? Was it for a 4" or 6" stroke? You should have a 6" stroke on your Challenger.

You know, before you are done, you're going to want the top link also.

Builder · Oct 9, 2009

You're probably right, but I only have 2 rear remotes. The rake needs one of them, so I only have one of the three links to adjust to connect to the 2nd remote. If I do a top and tilt, it would take up both of my remotes. Unless they have a way to split one of my remotes with a top n tilt kit.

MtnViewRanch · Oct 9, 2009

Builder said:
You're probably right, but I only have 2 rear remotes. The rake needs one of them, so I only have one of the three links to adjust to connect to the 2nd remote. If I do a top and tilt, it would take up both of my remotes. Unless they have a way to split one of my remotes with a top n tilt kit.

I have no doubt that it can be done. How, I'm not sure,

maybe ask in the hydraulics forum?