Adding work lights

   / Adding work lights
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Well, i thought about that. then i figure, if i was using two 55w lights in the middle of teh daylight, then i deserve what i get.

OH...BTW, if i later decide i want to wire this to the ignition switch, then i pretty much need this exact setup, except there will be a relay and a wire to the ignition inline, correct?
 
   / Adding work lights #22  
Note that you don't have to get the trigger voltage for the relay from the ignition swtich. Any wire coming out of the fusebox which is hot when the key is turned will do you just fine.
 
   / Adding work lights
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Well, ive just about got the wiring wrapped up. It took 20' of wire. I followed the existing wiring harness exactly and it worked out well. I ended up using 14AWG wire instead of 16, mostly because thats what is coming out of the light and i was worried about it getting hot. So, we shall see. All i have to do now is hook the wire to the lights and flip the switch.
 
   / Adding work lights
  • Thread Starter
#25  
OK, they are up and running. I have two issues.

1.) i couldnt find a hot wire to wire the switch to for the relay, the wiring is wrapped pretty tight. The ONLY wires i could find are a green with a yellow runner that seems to run to every switch, and is only hot when the key is on. I don't know where all of these wires go, but they go somewhere and must split off a larger wire. I didnt want to cut into it since i dont know if it can handle what i want it to do if all the other switches are on.

2.) The lights work well, they do, however, light up the dash A LOT, they are very bright. No kidding, its a FLOOD light, however, it is bearable, but it woulf be nice if i could focus more light out front and shade the part that shines on teh dash.
 
   / Adding work lights #26  
FULLPULL said:
Under each rear fender of my tc55 i have a hot wire for a lite i would say two would be easy to hook up. The wires work by using the switch already mounted on the dash.

I would have liked to see same on my Kubota L3130. Does anyone know of a similar tap-in point on this tractor?
 
   / Adding work lights #27  
Squeak n Itch said:
I would have liked to see same on my Kubota L3130. Does anyone know of a similar tap-in point on this tractor?
my FIL's L3830 and B7510 have them, it looks like a loose plug by the bottom of the lower right side of the rops, it comes from the bundle that runs to the lights on the fender.


Aaron Z
 
   / Adding work lights
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Well, i couldnt stand it, i rewire the lights, adding my relay. I just tapped into a wire that i found with the wiring diagram in the manual. So, the lights only work when the key is on.

So, thats good.

Now, how can i address the problem of light placement? Can i get less light on the instrument panel? Will a trapezoid light help this?
 
   / Adding work lights #29  
Where have you placed them, or not yet?
Did you look into making some brackets like mine?
If you keep the lights out of the cab area, they should not reflect on the instrument panel.
 
   / Adding work lights
  • Thread Starter
#30  
They are on the ROPS, hanging, on the top, rather than on the sides. The problem is that the ROPS is about 1 foot BEHIND my head, so the lights, while placing a lot of light out in front of the loader, place a LOT of light on the instrument cluster as well. This is just about unbearable if im wearing my glasses, because the light comes in and glares into my eyes. They are just about useless without glasses as well. Im not sure what to do here. I dont have any more options for mounting them. I want them to hang UNDER the rops to pretect them from trees and limbs. I think the only way this will work is if i had a canopy and could get the lights mounted up and in front of the cab.

Sure wish i would have figured that out before i spent 6 hours wiring and rewiring.


Plus, the $#%&@ things blew the 10A fuse, so there is a dam short somewhere, that i have to trace tomorrow.
 

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