adjustable side link

[dirt clod]

Mine is in pretty bad shape. Threads are worn out and it keeps getting bent from getting out of adjustment.

Anyhow it seems like the only time I ever adjust a side link is when they somehow come loose. More so when bushhoging or useing tiller due to vibrations. This part seems to me to be more a problem becouse it is adjustable.

I've never had a reason to set for anything other than level for a bushhog, BB, disc, tiller, moldboard plow, subsoiler, landscape rake. My question is there any reason I should not build a solid side link, or use non-adjustable links on both sides?

 

[dirt clod]

Am I missing anything on this idea?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Am I missing anything on this idea?

The locknut. Tighten after setting adjustment.
larry

 

[dirt clod]

I do. Threads are worn I guess. It will come loose if running a pto implement after a while. What about not having a adjustable side link?

 

[tommu56]

do a search for telescopic side links on a kubota it might be your fix
I think it was on 7800

tommu

 

[dirt clod]

I was talking about the side link that adjusts the tilt so you can use a implement unlevel I guess. Some have replaced these with hydro units for cutting ditches and such, I dont have a need for such.There is one adjustable and one fixed on tractors. The sway links that control how much play there is side to side I would in no way want those fixed even if they once in a great while get loose.

 

[Runner]

dirt,

I see your point and wish there was a solid side link available for my tractor (JD2520) too. I never take my quick hitch off, so there is no need to mess with the side links, however, like yours, mine do work loose every so often.

And on my machine, when that happens, even a little bit, the draft arms hit the tires.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I do. Threads are worn I guess. It will come loose if running a pto implement after a while. What about not having a adjustable side link?

Id try tightening the nut a lot tighter. It shouldnt come loose even with worn threads. Of course there will always be play on the non nutted side and this will get worse. Links are usually greased to slow this wear. It usually takes a good many years to wear them out. If your threads are truly worn out you could try cleaning it up and using #638 loctite on both ends, or set the link and weld it.
larry

 

[3RRL]

If your thinking about replacing it new or getting a solid one, I'd consider welding the one you have now in the position you have. You can always get another and that seems to be your plan anyway?

 

[dirt clod]

If your thinking about replacing it new or getting a solid one, I'd consider welding the one you have now in the position you have. You can always get another and that seems to be your plan anyway?

Great minds think a like? It was to bad to fix, so I welded it shut. The only times I have ever adjusted it was to make it even when it got loose. I really dont care for this on this tractor. On my old massy it had a nice one that used a little handle like a screw jack, it was nice to get more or less dirt thrown to the side with the moldboard. Just dont waste the time setting up for level broke ground as I follow it with something else. Anyhow I feel that if I was doing landscape work that requires differant tilts I would need top and tilt cylinders.
Of course I live on farm, not a golf course. Thanks

 

[Soundguy]

If the threads were so worn that the lock nut didn't hold.. yeah..weld it or repalce it..

I've welded them up and recut threads.. but it's alot of work..

soundguy

 

[john_bud]

Why not just buy one with the crank handle? Kubota sells them on the L series tractors. Price is high at about 300 (ouch). Or you can get a new one that you need to wrench down a nut to tighten. I got one of them from e-scam for about 25 bucks + 8 shipping. It lasted 12 hours then a weld broke. It won't break after my weld fix.....

jb

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. many of the ones with cranks have crank locks..

soundguy

 

[dirt clod]

Why not just buy one with the crank handle? Kubota sells them on the L series tractors. Price is high at about 300 (ouch). Or you can get a new one that you need to wrench down a nut to tighten. I got one of them from e-scam for about 25 bucks + 8 shipping. It lasted 12 hours then a weld broke. It won't break after my weld fix.....

jb

Had no idea they made one. Those crank handle ones I really like.Not suprised at the 300 bones. The dinky threaded rod model is about 90. Money would be better towards a t&t kit I would think. Some of that china stuff on ebay an't to strong, maybe they put too much lead in it sometimes

Anyhow I might just not do anything else. I think the food out of the garden will taste just fine out of rough dirt and the cows hadnt complained about any of my work...........,yet.

 

[3RRL]

I'm with you dirt,
Just weld and go...