Adjusting a tiller

[powerscol]

Also check out the Ansung Terra Force line. Built like a tank and heavy - dig well Running a YJR 074 with 26.5 HP and love it.

 

[brown40]

You should be able to pull the link arms off the three point and lengthen your arms out.

I have a chipper that needs the 3pt short. The King Kutter II tiller needs the links long. The bushhog ranges change significantly at each setting. Shortened---it won't mow downhill slopes behind me, lengthened, it contacts the top link.

When nothing is on your 3 point--how close will the draw bars come to ground level? A tiller needs to get down deep.

3 points are all three points, but the lengths and spans all change. Unless that tiller was hopelessly outclassed by your machine, there should have been a configuration for it.

 

[Bill Hoffman]

Make sure the PTO shaft isn't too long. It may be bottoming out and not allowing
the tiller to lower as far as it can. If this is the case it can REALLY damage
your tractor.

 

[Gafn]

Now you know why i don't like those poorly designed tillers... NOT all tillers are created equal!!

SR

Wait a minute... Sawyer Rob - your calling this a poorly designed tiller, you don't even know the brand name, and Walkin Horse ran it a 1.76mph - which is like Mach 1 for a tiller.
At 1.76mph the tiller was not allowed to do it's job, even if the ground was plowed and disc'd the tiller still needs time to chew itself into the dirt, loosen all the soil.
At this speed, all you did was scalp the top of the dirt.

Also you said it had rained the day before... you don't get great results tilling wet soil.

How does this qualify the tiller as a poorly designed tiller?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Wait a minute... Sawyer Rob - your calling this a poorly designed tiller, you don't even know the brand name, and Walkin Horse ran it a 1.76mph - which is like Mach 1 for a tiller.
At 1.76mph the tiller was not allowed to do it's job, even if the ground was plowed and disc'd the tiller still needs time to chew itself into the dirt, loosen all the soil.
At this speed, all you did was scalp the top of the dirt.

Also you said it had rained the day before... you don't get great results tilling wet soil.

How does this qualify the tiller as a poorly designed tiller?

You are wrong on several points...

1. I commercial till, and i regularly till at 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 mph, my tillers do a nice job at those speeds...and I have tilled more than a "few" acres (read thousands) so I do know how to set up a tiller and what is a better design. (I own three right now)

2. most ground tills up better after a rain, just so it wasn't too much rain.

3. yes he did state the brand!

4. AND the BIGGEST tell tale sign, that it was a poor design of all: HE SAID it was a 4 tine per flandge!

I could go on, but that will do for now...

SR

 

[Gafn]

Well I have been wrong before

I bet I will be wrong again ... and again
and again
and again
and again...

oh wait I forgot !!!!!!!!!!!!! - need exclamation points after every sentence to make sure folks know I am screaming at my keyboard....

I asked you how this qualifies.... I am a freaking rookie at ALL THINGS TRACTOR....
Yea I missed the brand name - dang... my mistake...

HOW is anyone supposed to know your experience....... so I asked HOW... thanks for all the information and the !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - got to love this kind of response.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Well I have been wrong before

I bet I will be wrong again ... and again
and again
and again
and again...

Me too, just not this time!

SR

 

[oldballs]

To my knowledge there are many 4 tine per flange tillers out there that do professional work. Although six sounds better than four, the difference may be minimal.....:2cents: Four tines make me especially happy when I'm under there cleaning up the box and tines.....after the tilling is over.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[Sawyer Rob]

To my knowledge there are many 4 tine per flange tillers out there that do professional work. Although six sounds better than four, the difference may be minimal.....:2cents: Four tines make me especially happy when I'm under there cleaning up the box and tines.....after the tilling is over.
Cheers,
Mike

I'm glad you said "the difference MAY be minimal", with "may" being the key word...

4 tine or 6 tine, it all depends on who you are wanting to make happy ?. IF you want to make YOU happy, it doesn't make much difference... IF you want to make a "paying customer" happy, then you better have what does the BEST job at a fair price, and that would be a "properly" designed tiller with 6 tines per flange.

You guys are happy with garden tillers, I'm talking field tillers, that are a much stronger better designed, that have features making them work better.

SR

 

[oldballs]

I have re-thunk this matter, and have noticed that you and Walking are talking about 6 foot tillers used on acres. I stand corrected.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I'm talking about tiller design....no matter what size it is or how it's used. I do a lot of gardens, in fact this is the tiller I use most on gardens and is my smallest tiller,

It's still a "properly designed" tiller that could be used in small fields and does a great job...

SR

 

[jenkinsph]

I till after a rain too when the need arises. About a week ago we had a slow rain for about 24 hours and I tilled up an area about an acre, that was taking advantage of the rain helping to soften the hard ground. Saved me some time and a second pass with the tiller, before the rain I knew it was going to be tough to till. The rain solved that problem for me.

There is a big difference between tiller sizes available, some can till about 4 inches deep but the larger tillers can go 12 inches deep. Just as some discs are small and some are much larger size and weight make a big difference. The notion that tillers are only good for small gardens is incorrect imo.

 

[powerscol]

"It is a 6' TSC 4 tine." All I can say this is an entry tiller for cat 1 tractors, but the bigger issue is weight. This is a 6' that weighs only 744 lbs. I believe it is chain driven too with a tilling depth of about 6" (they don't say in the info)

CountyLine® Rotary Tiller, 6 ft. W - Tractor Supply Co.

In tough soil it will do just as it did, stay on the surface. For efficient tilling you need at least 6 tines per flange, fast rotation speed, and weight. My YJR 074 weight is 919 lbs and even at that it will bounce on hard pasture. You also need to go slow for it to dig. My neighbor added weight blocks to his 5' KK to make it work better and he runs his with a BX Kubota. Even with this it does not do the best job. I took pity on him last week after watching him struggle with his garden and made one pass next to his worked area that did as much in depth as he had done in 4 passes. Once I broke it up, he was fine.

Also tine type and geometry do make a difference as well as sharpness. The other issue is the tilt adjustment of the tiller (top link) when lowered. Mine works best with just a bit of forward down angle when placed on the ground not running (resting on tines), so when at full depth the skis are running level or just a bit of forward tilt.

Hope this helps.

 

[Walkin Horse]

No it hadn't rained yet Friday when I used it. I took it off the tractor Sat before it started. I guess there could have been any number of things wrong. From being junk to to big of a tractor or adjusted wrong. But like I said it was a cheap lesson on tillers.

 

[SamSpade]

If I want to go deep, I go through it with my twin masted middlebuster first. It makes two trenches for the skids and the tiller takes a full bite the first time through.

 

[TomSeller]

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/422647-adjusting-tiller-100422140-middlebuster-wl-jpg"/>
If I want to go deep, I go through it with my twin masted middlebuster first. It makes two trenches for the skids and the tiller takes a full bite the first time through.

I do similar with the scarifiers on my box blade.

 

[oldballs]

View attachment 422647
If I want to go deep, I go through it with my twin masted middlebuster first. It makes two trenches for the skids and the tiller takes a full bite the first time through.

Same here. Sometimes I've used the Middlebuster, sometimes the Moldboard Plow, and sometimes the rippers on the Box Blade. It depends on the situation or what happens to be on the 3 pt. Then I go to the 54 inch (4 tine ) LandPride tiller.......with perfection no less.

 

[powerscol]

Then I go to the 54 inch (4 tine ) LandPride tiller.......with perfection no less.

OK so you got me with that one :thumbsup::laughing:

Have you ever noticed as to how various brands set up their tines? Some are gest offset the same between flanges so every other tine makes contact at the same time. On mine I noticed they are offset to form a spiral cutter like you find on some planers. It just seems to be smoother. Thoughts?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Have you ever noticed as to how various brands set up their tines? Some are gest offset the same between flanges so every other tine makes contact at the same time. On mine I noticed they are offset to form a spiral cutter like you find on some planers. It just seems to be smoother. Thoughts?

Use to be, all the cheapo tillers just had the tines any old way they could get them in there.

Even the old Howards had the tines in a "spiral", because it DOES do a much BETTER job. It's ONE of the things "others" are now doing to catch up to the better designed tillers.

A properly designed tiller, set up properly, doesn't need any "pre" tillage to get a good job of tilth, WITHOUT ruining the soil structure.

SR

 

[dpb800]

My tines are in a spiral offset. Just tiled some garden today.