Advice on smoothing, leveling a field

[Number15]

Ok I took some more pictures to try and convey what I am dealing with. I have a very large section of land that just undulates like a sine wave. I don't know if it's from erosion or some other means.
I used a level and some blocks to try and give an ideal on how deep these are. It's basically 8-10 inches to the bottom of the level in these pictures and it is not even at the top. Some are 30 yards long, some go on for much longer. And it is like this for a very large area.

 

[jeff9366]

So we have about a 3 acre field that is currently a mixture of grass and weeds. It is was a tobacco field that still has ridges left in place from the previous owner. They are not terrible but bad enough we need to mow slow or it makes you sea-sick going over them.​

What is the best implement to smooth and even everything out?
Once done I will use a cultipacker to smooth and press the dirt then spread new grass seed.

Mow as short as possible: "scalp."

Few with Disc Harrows adjust them after putting them to use. If you first process the field two or three times (depending on the weight bearing on each of your disc pans) to loosen ridges, then adjust gang angles less aggressively in increments, the disc may meet your needs solo. Effective discing requires moist soil.

Shorter Top Link = more weight on front gangs.

More weight on front disc gangs throws dirt OUT. Use on ridges.


Longer Top Link = more weight on rear gangs.

More weight on rear/wider disc gangs gathers dirt in. Straddle the swales.

The faster you disc the more dirt is moved.

As the field is smoothed, adjust hydraulic Position Control so disc is in lighter contact with the soil.

Your last past should be a moderate speed, pans sunk 2" to 3" in soil, front gang adjusted moderately, rear gang adjusted less aggressively than front gang, but not "straight", weight distribution about equal between front and rear.

To prevent erosion you may need to disc your Tennessee River land in strips, then go over the process flattened strips with a cultipacker to firm soil and prevent erosion.

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Just got the tractor back from Kubota of Chattanooga. They set the tractor to its widest stance, 72", a gain of 8".

Another implement to consider is an 84" Harley Rake/Power Rake. Using a Harley Rake you would drive down one ridge, windrowing dirt into one swale, return on the same ridge, windrowing dirt into the opposite swale.
Harley Rake does NOT require brisk tractor speed to move dirt.

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Before you seed I highly recommend a <$10.00 soil test and soil amendment per test result(s). You need to inform testing agency what variety of grass you intend to plant for optimum amendment results. Without a soil test 20% to 33% of the fertilizer you apply may have "0" effect.

Review Post #7.​

 

[oosik]

Second set of pictures shows that it's not that bad. I would suggest a box blade. Use it to create more gentile slopes going into your depressions and to fill the little rivlets.

The picture with your white van. Sure hope you don't want to fill those undulations. The ones with yellow level - box blade will smooth that all out.

Hey - you moved out into the country. Did you expect to create a pool table out of your land.

 

[coobie]

3 point rotiller would smooth that out or this option followed up with disk.

 

[Number15]

Second set of pictures shows that it's not that bad. I would suggest a box blade. Use it to create more gentile slopes going into your depressions and to fill the little rivlets.

The picture with your white van. Sure hope you don't want to fill those undulations. The ones with yellow level - box blade will smooth that all out.

Hey - you moved out into the country. Did you expect to create a pool table out of your land.

Yep those are the ones I am talking about. I don't expect billiard table smooth, just want to be able to mow it easier. Otherwise it will gwt neglected and look like junk.

I do appreciate all the suggestions. I have a lot to think about including if I want to hire that pro.

I like the look of the power rake. Costly but looks like it can handle it. Really pondering this.

 

[airbiscuit]

You need to more precisely define what you mean and want for smooth and level. If you more easily want to mow what you havem then top dressing will make it smoother to mow, although you will still have the gentle dips and hollows.

If you want a golf course fairway, then you are back to square one, re tilling the soil. using a land leveler, and reseeding. No small or inexpensive task.

You need to more precisely define what you mean and want for smooth and level.

 

[airbiscuit]

Or this

 

[Number15]

You need to more precisely define what you mean and want for smooth and level. If you more easily want to mow what you havem then top dressing will make it smoother to mow, although you will still have the gentle dips and hollows.

If you want a golf course fairway, then you are back to square one, re tilling the soil. using a land leveler, and reseeding. No small or inexpensive task.

You need to more precisely define what you mean and want for smooth and level.

Gentle dips are fine, I am not looking for a golf course. Just want something easier to take care of. If the undulations were more gentle it would be fine. It's so hard to convey with pictures what this looks like and how bad it is.

 

[Egon]

Just cultivate the area with whatever implements you have. Follow up with a drag from multiple angles and then reseed.

Simply put; you need loose soil that you can move into a smooth profile.

 

[airbiscuit]

Number15, what do you think you will end up doing?​

Your grass looks too good to till and start over, yet you dread mowing it,​

Let the farmer roll it and see what happens?​

Till it it up and level and re-seed it?​

Top dress it?​

Or ,,,?​

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Maybe the problem is mowing it with a zero turn. You have a 55hp CUT with a cab. Why not buy a batwing mower and call it a day?​