Ag tires vs R4

[wolc123]

Keep in mind that the R4, as used on CUT's, are a "compromise" tire that give up a lot of traction in mud or snow. This causes many folks who use them for ground engaging work and such, considerable disappopintment. They are better on lawns than R1's but still cause significantly more damage than turfs due to the bar tread pattern. If you are limited to one tractor and one set of tires and need to do some lawn work and some ground engaging work, then the R4 is the tire for you. If you are a no-compromise type and can swing an extra tractor or an extra set of tires, then turfs and R1's would be best. I have (2) tractors with turfs for on my lawn and (4) with R1's for off. You would never catch me with R4's unless I got into the construction business. I did a little of that once and R4's were best there for sure and they worked great on my tractor-loader-backhoe.

 

[CBW1999]

I opted for the R-4's on my B7510. I think the word "compromise" is a great description for these on CUT's. :thumbsup:

I do some field work, garden work, lawn mowing and snow plowing. These tires are loaded and I have genraly had no problems. There was only once I wish I had R-1's, while trying to pull a 5 foot disc through clay. Ended up getting rid of the disc and getting a tiller.

I have considered since last winter- getting a set of "beater" tires- probably turf, and putting screw in studs to use during the winter. Ice is my biggest problem with traction and to have a set I could just throw on when needed- would be handy. certainly not worth the expense of buying new however.

Possibly, in the future I may spec out 2 sets of tires when I upgrade...but of course- it will be the third set I would need the most:laughing:

 

[wolc123]

You brought up a great point in the tiller being a good way to compensate for the traction limitation of R4's. A tiller requires far less traction than a plow or disc, since most of the work is done thru the PTO. I dont see a tiller being very efficient for much more than a couple acres, but for gardens and small foodplots, they are great. Similarly, a snowblower in the winter, will allow an R4-equiped tractor to move snow much easier than a snowplow.

 

[CBW1999]

[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5M5Q4PNmWI0"[/URL]

This is a link to a video of my tractor going through a muddy section of the garden plot. it is a bit long- 1:52 though 2:32 is the specific time frame.

the tiller (forward tine rotation) helped keep the tractor moving, but did not push it through. You can see the mud level on the tires and rims....:licking:

 

[07 LMM LTZ]

I have R4's on my L3940 and pull a two bottom plow and a 6' disc without any problem. Now like others have said R1's are hands down a better tire in mud, but I dont normaly plow or disc the garden when it's muddy. I opted for the r4's because I use the tractor to mow my lawn with.

 

[Gods Country]

Wouldn't chaining up R4's help those with the occasional need to work in conditions or certain operations where R1's would be more ideal?

 

[JoelD]

A quick search on the site should provide somewhere between 100000 and 1000000000 threads on this topic (couldn't help myself).

Generally speaking.
R1's are maximum traction in loose conditions.
R4's are medium traction in loose conditions.
Turf are minimum traction in loose conditions.

I like R4's for where I live, up here in Rock country. The tires are super thick and tough to rip apart with rocks. R1's would tear my lawn up and I've ripped lugs off of them before with rocks.

I guess if you are tractor pulling on pavement then maybe turf would be the way to go, or maybe drag racing.

Turf and R4's are totally useless in mud.

Joel

 

[JoelD]

Wouldn't chaining up R4's help those with the occasional need to work in conditions or certain operations where R1's would be more ideal?

I could not imagine a chained R4 coming close to an R1 in mud.

Joel

 

[DieselnHooters]

I have R4s on my MX5000, its used mostly for logging...they work fine but I still plan on switching to R1s once those are done...in 30 or 40 years !

 

[Reg]

It depends on what you are doing, how and where you are doing it.
You can usually get a LOT more ballast into R4s, you can lift a lot more in the FEL without overloading the front ones and they have a better ability to "float" across some types of mud - where R1s will sometimes cut right down DEEP before you have to admit that you REALLY ARE stuck.

So; yes, no and maybe (-:

 

[mayer2323]

I went with the R1's. Thanks

 

[Diamondpilot]

I went with the R1's. Thanks

Good choice.:thumbsup: Like others said R4's are a compromise. I have used both and can tell you soil type and how you use the tractor is very important. Any pulling of a plow or a log and R1's will shine.

I have mowed for many many years with R1 tractors and just dont mow when its wet and you will be fine. You will do far more damage getting stuck and trying to get it out than you will by having the proper tire for the job.

Chris

 

[Zebrafive]

Just a bit off topic...but...

What would it cost to change out tires IF you discovered you wanted the "other" choice??

My land is mostly woods with 3+ acres of field that I plan to brush mow. Also will brush mow 1+ miles of trails and generally work as a tree farmer in my 120 acres. On one hand I want top traction for when I try to cross a damp gully...on the other hand I like the toughness of R4s driving over "stuff" in roughed out forest. I currently do not plan on plowing...or maybe even using...in the winter...but won't rule that out down the road.

Sooooo...approximately what would it cost to change out the tires on say a 35-45 HP size tractor...I know you can only estimate...but I have NO idea.

Thanks...Tom R

I can't tell you the cost, but some things to consider in the cost:

Can you get "the other tire" for your wheel size? Lot of times the R1s will use a larger diameter wheel than R4s on the same tractor. So you may need new wheels.

Even more important is maintaining the proper front to rear ratio. You want the front tires pulling 1-5% more than the rears. So switching may not be possible. Or require gearing changes.

 

[CBW1999]

When I first thought of having 2 sets of wheels for my B7510, I fell over and almost died.

For wheels and tires, I was quoted over $1000.00. Even used wheels and tires are fairly expensive. The closest I have found for used is 600.00

 

[rjkobbeman]

When I first thought of having 2 sets of wheels for my B7510, I fell over and almost died.

For wheels and tires, I was quoted over $1000.00. Even used wheels and tires are fairly expensive. The closest I have found for used is 600.00

I don't know how much cheaper R1s are, but one front wheel/tire combo for my setup is $600. I think a rear wheel/tire combo is $1k.

 

[foggy1111]

All my work is field work. If I were buying new....I'd take the R1 tires / wheels in the biggest size offered.

I bought a nice used 3320 with Large R4's to replace my 790 tractor with R1's (you wont find many used tractors equipped with R1's). I pull a 5 1/2' tandem disc and 2 Btm plow (as well as use a tiller, etc). It will be interesting to see if the heavier 3320 will pull as good or better than the 790. The 3320 has 1800 lbs weight advantage and a larger footprint with the R4 tires. Both are 4WD.

Bets on pulling ability?

 

[Riverrat]

I would love to know. I'm trying to purchase a 4120 and will be doing both mowing and woods work. The tire decision is becoming difficult.

 

[rjkobbeman]

I would love to know. I'm trying to purchase a 4120 and will be doing both mowing and woods work. The tire decision is becoming difficult.

I struggled with the R1 vs R4 decision for a while when I was getting ready to buy my tractor. (Turf was not even a consideration.)

Although I think R4s look "cool", that was not going to be a factor unless all other things were equal... which of course they are not.

I concede R1s have much, much better traction than R4s and I wish I had them on occasion. However there were two main points that were relavent to ME which made me go with R4s:

Weight rating -- I do a lot of FEL work and put a lot of weight in my bucket. The weight rating of the R1s would cover the weight of the front of the tractor and FEL... but there was no room for material. Take a look for yourself, the numbers are pretty surprising.

Toughness -- I heard/read time and time again that the R4s are tougher and resistent to flats than R1s. I am doing a lot of clearing in a pasture that is filled with locust trees. I don't know how R1s stand up to thorns, but my R4s are hanging tough. I have a slow leak in one of my fronts... but it is very slow and manageable. If you saw all of the busted off thorns in my tires you would be shocked. I'm surprised they are still holding air! My guess is I would be having problems with R1s.

I will tell you this, my R4s really suck in the mud. I imagine they wont fair much better in the snow.

 

[LD1]

All my work is field work. If I were buying new....I'd take the R1 tires / wheels in the biggest size offered.

I bought a nice used 3320 with Large R4's to replace my 790 tractor with R1's (you wont find many used tractors equipped with R1's). I pull a 5 1/2' tandem disc and 2 Btm plow (as well as use a tiller, etc). It will be interesting to see if the heavier 3320 will pull as good or better than the 790. The 3320 has 1800 lbs weight advantage and a larger footprint with the R4 tires. Both are 4WD.

Bets on pulling ability?

How do you manage a 1800lb difference???

The 790 weighs ~2100 and the 3320 is ~2900. That a diff of 800. Unless you are going to leave the loader on the 3320 and didn't have one on the 790.

But it will be a close call but my money would still be on the ag tires

 

[orezok]

It's a matter of use and location. Our here in the desert (no row crops here), the R-1's are pretty useless. All you do is sink down in the soft dry sand and make ruts. The R-4's float on top of the sand and provide excellent traction.