Ags or turfs on your beaver?

   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #1  

Freakingstang

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Messages
384
Location
BOhio
Tractor
s370d
As I'm most of the way through fabrication of my loader, I'm starting to look at ag tires... Should I stick with the factory bridgestones or throw ags on them? I really wanted R4's for the best of both worlds, but don't want to throw down the cash for new wheels and tires....
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #2  
Ags and turfs are different profiles and take different rims. You say you have turfs right now? What do you perceive most of your tractor related chores to be?

Joe
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
What do you mean different profiles and rims? They came with both ags and turfs in 6-12 fronts and 9.5-16 rears...

I have my Kubota to mow with.

The beaver, once the loader is done, it will be used primarly for ground leveling, gravel drive install and maintenance, ditch mowing and woods cleanup... The turf tires I have now kinda suck...
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #4  
I thought the Beaver had 8.5-16 Ag tires. If I remember, I'll look when I'm over there again.
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #5  
When I first saw that subject title, my reaction was... :shocked:
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #6  
My Beaver came with R1 ag tires, 5-12 front, 8-16 rear. R3 tires were available, with 6-12 front and 9.5-16 rear. As stated above, the rims used for turf tires are different than those used for ag tires. If your primary use of this tractor is for heavy loader work, stay with the ag tires. If you are using the tractor on a lawn for light loader usage, turfs will be fine. That said, provided your bucket isn't too wide (no wider than tread width), turf tires using FWA will do a lot, including pushing/loading a plumb full bucket full of heavy dirt. YMMV.

Vvm
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Ok then here is my question. I'm trading a guy with brand new rear ags with wheels for My turfs. Both sizes are the same at 9.5-16.

For the fronts, if I just buy 6-12 to replace the 6-12 turfs I currently have, I should be fine, right?
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #8  
Ok then here is my question. I'm trading a guy with brand new rear ags with wheels for My turfs. Both sizes are the same at 9.5-16.

For the fronts, if I just buy 6-12 to replace the 6-12 turfs I currently have, I should be fine, right?

My guess is you will be fine. The 6-12 tires should actually have a greater load rating than a 5-12 tire from what I can gather on tires out there but it is not entirely straight forward because it will depend on number of plys the tires have as well, maybe among other things. I just bought a S373D that had 6-12 ags on the front and had a loader that has clearly been "well used" and the problem was not with the tires themselves, but the rims were cracking around the bolt holes. I'm finding that this is not that uncommon of an issue, both for front and rear rims. I need to measure the thickness of the 5-12 vs. 6-12 rims but I suspect the 6-12 rims are not any thicker than the 5-12s although they probably should be (actually they both should thicker than what they are to help prevent cracking).

Another thing that I have no data on, but I have a gut feeling about is that turfs are much easier stress-wise on rims than ags (and especially rice-paddy tires) when you are driving on concrete, pavement, etc. Every time the lugs make contact with a hard surface an increase in stress occurs on the rims. This cyclical loading can be problematic if it's high enough, and carring around a loaded bucket will likely exacerbate the problem.

If it were me, I'd leave turfs on unless most of your work is on soft ground or you really need the added traction all the time. I admit that ags or similar look better though :thumbsup:
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #9  
The combination of 6-12 R1 on front and 9.5-16 R1 on rear should be fine as far as front/rear ratio is concerned. The front wheels should be "pulling" the rears slightly, by anywhere from 2-5%. To check this, jack up the tractor on one side, both front and rear wheels. Rotate the rear wheel exactly once. Keep track of how many rotations, including last fractional rotation, the front wheel makes while the rear is making this one rotation. Next, calculate the distance around the rear wheel (circumference). Then, calculate the distance around the front wheel. Multiply the circumference of the front wheel by the number of rotations it made while the rear was being rotated once. Divide the answer by the circumference of the rear wheel. The quotient should be somewhere between 1.02 and 1.05, meaning the fronts are sized as they should be to maintain the acceptable ratio between front and rear wheels. If your answer is less than 1.02 or greater than 1.05, your tires are placing the geartrain at risk of unnecessary wear, not to mention additional wear to the tires. The farther away from the acceptable range, the greater the wear.

Keep in mind that Satoh originally sized tires for the Beaver based on available engine torque. Their engineers had done the calculations as to how to best match the Beaver's engine torque with optimal tire size. With larger tires installed, available torque at the ground is reduced while travel speed is increased. If you don't need the slowest travel speed possible with maximum available power, and if you don't use the tractor at high road speed much, the reduction in torque probably won't make all that much difference. Vvm.
 
   / Ags or turfs on your beaver? #10  
Also keep in mind that tractors such as the Satoh "Buck" and "Beaver" use *exactly* the same drive train parts (same gear ratios) according to the parts manual, but the Buck tractor can come with 8-18 rear tires while keeping the same 5-12/6-12 fronts. Other tractors do this too. The Iseki 2160F and 2140F (Bolens G174/G154) have 8-18 and 8-16 rears respectively. The difference between overall tire heights between 8-18 and 8-16 is about 2" (approx. 33" vs. 31" for ags according the manual). This will cut off some, if not all, of the % lead the front tires have over the rears. In fact, a 33" tire will travel about 6% farther per revolution than a 31".

I agree there is some "optimum" ratio between the front and rear drives as far as geartrain wear goes, but evidently it isn't terribly important as the makers of at least the Satoh and Iseki tractors did not make provisions to account for this or the difference was considered acceptable to the engineers.
 

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