Air Compressors

[BlacknTan]

I need an air compressor bad! Too many uses for it, and too far to town even to air up tires.
Not going to run many air tools, maybe a disc sander and impact wrench..
I'm thinking a 60 gallon upright single stage is more than enough for my usage. I'm thinking I'd prefer to run 230V...Don't want an oilless compressor..

What do y'all use??

What are the best brands???

 

[MikeInEburg]

Not going to run many air tools

If this is the case, I'd get a smaller portable unit. Way lower cost to buy and operate - plus... it's portable.
Mike

 

[Egon]

Size the compressor to run the impact wrench. Then go looking. Cast iron compressor may be preferable. 220 volt is also preferable. Many come with 120/220 motors.

Also consider what other uses could come up like painting, sandblasting, air tools and whether portability will be a factor.

 

[radioman]

why oiless ? My wife works in a eyeglass lab with aircompressors. She gone through more oiled aircompressers then the oilless ones. I have a oilless campbell hausfeld 3 hp portable one connected to a pig tank for more volume for over 10 years now. I love the fact its portable and can use it in many places, but I wished I had a larger one for more air and power. I was given the smaller portable ones that is less then 3 hp and they are useless. I think anything that is 20 gallon and larger is a good starting point. If you go with 60 gallons and up, you probably will be looking at motor/pump replacements 30+ years down the road as its cheaper that way. Does it really matter what brand you get? It seems they are all the same now. All chinese like stuff.

 

[bpattie]

i am curious why the 220 volt recommendations. I have a 110 V and like the fact that I can run it off extension if I need to use it away from my 220 v supply.

 

[BlacknTan]

why oiless ? My wife works in a eyeglass lab with aircompressors. She gone through more oiled aircompressers then the oilless ones. I have a oilless campbell hausfeld 3 hp portable one connected to a pig tank for more volume for over 10 years now. I love the fact its portable and can use it in many places, but I wished I had a larger one for more air and power. I was given the smaller portable ones that is less then 3 hp and they are useless. I think anything that is 20 gallon and larger is a good starting point. If you go with 60 gallons and up, you probably will be looking at motor/pump replacements 30+ years down the road as its cheaper that way. Does it really matter what brand you get? It seems they are all the same now. All chinese like stuff.

One of the main reasons I asked... I'd like to stay away from Chi-Com as much as possible. I guess it's just near impossible today!

And if the motor and compressor last thirty years, they'll outlive me by a fair margin! LOL

 

[Redneck in training]

I have oilless compressor for about past 15 years used in average about an hour a week. Zero maintenance so far. It is very loud though. If you forget it plugged in and it starts at night it will wake up everyone in the house.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I need an air compressor bad! Too many uses for it, and too far to town even to air up tires.
Not going to run many air tools, maybe a disc sander and impact wrench..
I'm thinking a 60 gallon upright single stage is more than enough for my usage. I'm thinking I'd prefer to run 230V...Don't want an oilless compressor..

What do y'all use??

What are the best brands???

I think youre right not wanting an oiless if you are going to run a sander. The impact will use air faster, but normal use is intermittent. Sanders are often used continuously for several minutes. You will need a compressor having a motor of at least 2 real HP -- NOT "compressor rated HP". The motor should draw at least P= IE = 2KW. Some of the "4HP" compressors have motors in the 2KW range. Just so your compressor is sized for 2kW minimum motor power you should be able to do well. It will not keep up with a small high speed air sander tho until you get up to about 4 REAL HP.

The trouble with oiless is they dont take well to constant running. The oiled ones move the heat away from the head better and so long runs are much less of an issue. You must keep oil in it tho.

Id vote for a 20 Gal portable as a starter. Usually cheaper than the uprights and easy to move where you need it. The investment wont be too big to hurt when you find so many more uses for air that warrant an upgrade.
larry

 

[Bird]

This topic has come up several times before. If you know what tools you will want to run, then size the compressor for the one that requires the highest SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute) volume. Sanders, buffers, paint sprayers, and drills usually use the highest volume. But if you use a sandblaster, that may be your highest consumption. Nearly all air tools are rated at 90 psi, but with widely varying consumption.

Oilless compressors are OK for infrequent use for short times. They are certainly not good for me. I've had a couple and the only good thing I can say about them is that I can completely rebuild one in less than an hour, and had to do that a couple of times a year. That pretty cowling they put over the motor and compressor is not just for looks; it's to keep that compressor from throwing parts at you when it comes apart. Maximum continuous run time will probably be shown in the manual to not exceed 10 minutes.

Single stage compressors are adequate for my use, 2 cylinders are usually better than one, and be careful of shallow aluminum crankcases. They may "look" like they have enough oil when they do not. They have to be filled right to the overflowing point. A deeper crankcase with an oil level sight gauge is certainly preferable. Even some of the oiled compressors with the shallow crankcase have warnings in the manuals to not run it continuously more than 10 minutes.

 

[Steve C]

I need an air compressor bad! Too many uses for it, and too far to town even to air up tires.
Not going to run many air tools, maybe a disc sander and impact wrench..
I'm thinking a 60 gallon upright single stage is more than enough for my usage. I'm thinking I'd prefer to run 230V...Don't want an oilless compressor..

What do y'all use??



[/I]
What are the best brands???

I have a Porter cable 3400 RPM oilless pancake compressor 135 psi
a Craftsman Professional 1750 rpm oilless 4 gallon hot dog (20 years old)
a Ridgid 3400 rpm oilless with twin stacked aluminum tanks 135 psi
a 60 gallon upright cast iron 5 hp 220 v
a Craftsman 30 gallon upright oilless 150 psi that pulls a full 15 amps @120
an old heavy Montgomery wards 20 gal cast iron 220 v horizontal 125 psi.

I have had good service out of all of them. They are scattered between 3 barns, a garage and 2 basements and a work shop.

If I am going to be using the framing nailer in one location for a large project I grab the Porter Cable. It is a little heavy and hard to carry because of the pancake tank, but it puts out a lot of air in a small package. It will tripp some 15 amp circuits.

The little Ridgid is my all time favorite for portable use. It weighs almost nothing with its twin stacked aluminum tanks and it will still run my framing nailer. You can pick it up with one hand.

The Craftsman 1750 rpm hot dog is just about the quietest compressor I own.
It was top of the line in its day, but that was a long time ago. It still works great but it is a little heavy to carry and a little top heavy to set on anything that isn't flat.

The cast Iron compressors are built like tanks so even though the 20 gallon has wheels it is best left in one place. It is also very top heavy.

If I could only have one of these compressors I would keep the Ridgid, it is a joy to move around and will run anything I own. Of course it would not be a good choice for high volume continuous use. But it runs an impact and nailers just fine along with blowing up tires.


If I was to buy a new compressor today and I wanted an oil filled pump I would buy an Ingersol Rand from Sears. They are in the new tool catalogs. They are very good units. I had a 220 volt unit that was about 30 years old that got burned up in my barn fire. The fit and finish was very high quality. It also worked flawlessly for 30 years. Perhaps because it had a real paper element air filter on it as well as a cast aluminum after cooler. It also had an oil sight glass that made it very easy to maintain the proper oil level. They cost a little more than the average consumer units but are still affordable.
And if you need parts 20 years from now they will probably still be available.

I hope this is helpfull.

 

[Scooby074]

My advice. GO BIG..... I dont think you could ever have too large of a air compressor.

You only have a couple tools listed today, but i can guarantee in the future youll have more. And youll likely try to sandblast!!! This will eat up air.

Your sander will likely eat up 10CFM CONTINUOUS. Thats the key. Its not intermittent use like a impact. If your going to sandblast, better count on at least 18CFM Continuous. So size accordingly.

Good idea avoiding the oil-less. Theyre too noisy (Ive had one).

Look for the SLOWEST RPM compressor you can find. It will be the quietest. Something like 600RPM is ideal.

And good trying to avoid the ChiCom. However, whats your budget? It may not be possible to get a made in US compressor. You have to watch these things, some will put a ChiCom compressor, on a cihcom tank, but assemble it in the states, and get to call it Made in USA.

220V is better.

As to brands, IR used to be good, Im not sure about the quality and where the new ones are made, but id imagine theyre still OK,

Quincy makes a high quality made in the US compressor.

Another great brand, and likely my next compressor, is Delvibis. I like their HDi line. Made and cast in canada, 600RPM, True 5 HP, 2 stage, 20CFM delivered. Price is around $2500CDN. If you have or can find a tank and motor, the head costs about $1000CDN. This is likely too much compressor for you but if your thinking about blasting or are serious about it, it might be worth a look.
Piston Compressors

Theres lots of opinions on compressors out there. So take everythng with a grain of salt. Another great site for garage related stuff, and compressors are a major topic of discussion is The Garage Journal Board - Powered by vBulletin

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am wonder why not a oil-less also? I have a 33 gallon Husky from Home Depot. Got it about 12 years ago and just this year the motor took a dump. Only paid $199 on sale. Got out the manual and called the phone number for parts and guess what? Its a CH.

Its a 110 volt unit that runs all the time, probably 5 hours a week on average and other than the $75 motor has given me zero issues. I leave it on all the time and have it plumbed though out my shop and house with 6 work stations. 3 in the pole barn then 2 in the house and 1 in the garage all via buried lines.

No complaints on the motor going out. I work in my shop about 20 hours a week and would guess the compressor runs 1/4 of the time.

Chris

 

[BHD]

If I read correctly I would buy a air compressor that was portable about a 12 gallon tank and can run a 15 amp breaker, (I prefer the oiled units over oiless, but beside noise, and both are noisy), there is not much reason to or advantage of the oiled over oiless IMO unless your getting into stationary, compressors,

there on a stationary unit I would go to a 230 volt a true 5hp motor and a two stage oiled compressor head,

but your talking two different animals if you have stationary you all most need/want a portable, for that tire that out of reach of the air hose, for up in the other building, or what ever,

there is no one perfect compressor, (I bought my small portable many years ago it was oil less, a Coleman name on it,
(nearly any small compressor is a throw away unit, as I doubt if I had problems with mine now I could get parts),

the small portable units will work for many things, my son and son in-law have used them until they nearly fall apart and some of them are the cheap Chinese junk units,
SIL works in construction and used his a lot, (small pancake oiless units),

I would probably buy a name brand unit, at lest if you would have any problems you may be able to get help or replacement parts to correct the problems,

in the shop for years until I got the stationary unit I would use an axillary tank for more reserver air, (I use a air powered tire changer, impact wrench's, and other air tools)

off the portable units, I used to small impacts, air drills, nailer's and staplers, dry wall texture guns, and the tire machine and other things (yes the volume of air was some times minimal for the job, but there is a line between portable and air, unless you step up to his type of portable air compressor, that is tractor powered,

 

[Scooby074]

I am wonder why not a oil-less also? I have a 33 gallon Husky from Home Depot. Got it about 12 years ago and just this year the motor took a dump. Only paid $199 on sale. Got out the manual and called the phone number for parts and guess what? Its a CH.

Its a 110 volt unit that runs all the time, probably 5 hours a week on average and other than the $75 motor has given me zero issues. I leave it on all the time and have it plumbed though out my shop and house with 6 work stations. 3 in the pole barn then 2 in the house and 1 in the garage all via buried lines.

No complaints on the motor going out. I work in my shop about 20 hours a week and would guess the compressor runs 1/4 of the time.

Chris

THe problems with Oiless ore : Noise, durability , air volume, and noise. Did i mention the noise?

I think the life you got out of yours was the exception to the rule.

My "5hp" oiless Campbell hausfield had all the above problems. It lasted me probably 2 years. Most of my use is autobody, which uses lots of air. The compressor had to run constantly to keep up with my sander. I ran low on air many times.

People really undersize their compressors, either from lack of knowledge or just being cheap.I learned i was both with my Campbell Hausfield.

My 7 year old oil filled does the exact same job with less noise and runs like a top. The only place it falls short is in blasting. Its a 18CFM which should be enough according to my nozzle chart, but im using all that and then some. Thats not the compressors fault, but it shows its durability as it runs continously.

Duty cycles on oil less compressors are way less than oil filled. With most of the better oilfilleds being continuous duty.Theres no way an oil less compressor can dissipate heat like an oilfilled compressor.

 

[Bird]

I am wonder why not a oil-less also? I have a 33 gallon Husky from Home Depot. Got it about 12 years ago and just this year the motor took a dump. Only paid $199 on sale. Got out the manual and called the phone number for parts and guess what? Its a CH.

Its a 110 volt unit that runs all the time, probably 5 hours a week on average and other than the $75 motor has given me zero issues. I leave it on all the time and have it plumbed though out my shop and house with 6 work stations. 3 in the pole barn then 2 in the house and 1 in the garage all via buried lines.

No complaints on the motor going out. I work in my shop about 20 hours a week and would guess the compressor runs 1/4 of the time.

Chris

Yep, if you only use it 5 hours a week, and don't run it continuously for much more than 10 minutes at a time, they're not too bad. Of course, as one air compressor tech told me, you can figure the lifespan of an oilless at one-tenth the lifespan of an oiled compressor. When I was a full time RVer, I carried a little 2 gallon DeVilbiss oilless in the RV. It would do for occasional use to air up a tire or blow the dust out of things. And I had no problems with it. But on the farm, a 30 gallon oilless Craftsman (made by DeVilbiss) wouldn't make 6 months between rebuilds, but I sometimes ran it 3 to 5 hours a day. And if you do that, you're wasting money on oilless compressors.

 

[Egon]

i am curious why the 220 volt recommendations. I have a 110 V and like the fact that I can run it off extension if I need to use it away from my 220 v supply.

On my 2-1/2 HP the 120 volt is right at max amperage for a 15 amp fuse when it starts up.

This summer I was using a needle scaler on my rusty trailer. My Campbell Hausefield was running continuously for up to eight hours in 35C temperatures The 2-1/2 HP did not have enough air capacity to properly run the scaler.

 

[blueriver]

I went 110v portable two tanks, runs my nailer, impact wrench and anything I put on it. I can also load it in my gator by myself, throw the generator in there as well and have air in every hay field I have ... well for that matter air anywhere I take that setup ...

 

[SPYDERLK]

On my 2-1/2 HP the 120 volt is right at max amperage for a 15 amp fuse when it starts up.

This summer I was using a needle scaler on my rusty trailer. My Campbell Hausefield was running continuously for up to eight hours in 35C temperatures The 2-1/2 HP did not have enough air capacity to properly run the scaler.

See... theres what Im talking about. I have a high efficiency 1-1/2 HP 120/240 V motor with a service factor of 1.3. This means the motor will safely produce 1.3 x 1.5 = 1.95 HP continuously. Nameplate current is 17.6/8.8 Amps for producing that power. 15 Amps at 120 is 2.4 HP input power. You can bet your not getting out more than youre putting in. These compressor manufacturers are playing games. If a true 2.5 horse it should draw 25 or so amps at 120V. Gotta watch those Mfg claims.
larry

 

[EddieWalker]

For a home shop compressor for basic tasks and tools, it's not that big of a deal what you buy. The mid range of price compressors are all fine for this and should last you several decades. Don't confuse a home air compressor with a commercial or professional use model. The requirements for those compressors are more specialized and as a result, you pay allot more for those specialites.

An example is that I just bought a new Intersal Rand portable air compressor. For me, as a contractor, I have to have something powerful enough to run a framing nail gun and everything down to a brad nailer. It also has to be portable and able to run off of my clients homes. Allot of those homes are older and a compressor rated at 15 amps will trip breakers on a cold day. I've been through a few brands before finding this one, which pulls 14.5 amps. That half amp is why I paid $100 more for a compressor that I could have found with the same amount of power, but draws 15 amps. For me, that was very important.

While looking at compressors, I tried two different DeWalts that say Emglo on them. Emglo used to be a top name in compressors, but that was when they were painted blue and didn't have the DeWalt name on them. Both of the ones that I bought failed on me in less then a day. I have a Emglo wheel barrow compressor that is twenty years old, and it's a very good compressor. It's too heavy to carry around, but in emergancies, I've loaded it up to get the job done. I also had two Hitachi air compressors. One lasted a day, the replacement lasted a year, but it kept tripping breakers in clients homes. Sometimes it took half an hour just to get it going, it would trip the home breaker or it's own time after time.

I've been using this Ingersal Rand for about a month now, and I'm very impressed with it. Easy to start, quick to build pressure, fairly quiet and no leaks. Sometimes it's worth a little extra to get a good tool.

Eddie

 

[whistlepig]

Size the compressor to run the impact wrench. Then go looking. Cast iron compressor may be preferable. 220 volt is also preferable. Many come with 120/220 motors.

Also consider what other uses could come up like painting, sandblasting, air tools and whether portability will be a factor.

This is the way I did it. Sized the compressor to the impact wrench. If I have a frozen 1" nut now I don't curse, hammer, and chisel on it any more. I nuke the darn thing off with the impact wrench. Stuff flying everywhere. It makes me feel so much better. But then again, I'm easy to please.