Monster5601
Platinum Member
Had a 2003 Tahoe Z71 that had aluminum wheels. New tires at 123,000 and one air leak a year later on one wheel. It was a bead leak, simply broke the bead, cleaned, remounted and all was good.
Air loss in alloy rims?
- Thread starter daveinnh
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Had a 2003 Tahoe Z71 that had aluminum wheels. New tires at 123,000 and one air leak a year later on one wheel. It was a bead leak, simply broke the bead, cleaned, remounted and all was good.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I have had slow leakers on about every combination of tire brand/rim imaginable. If there is nothing in the tire (nail/screw) it is ALWAYS the bead or valve stem.
Even a slow leak will show up in a dunk test or a soap and water test. If they cannot prove its coming out of the rim, dont buy the BS. Make them clean the rim and use a new valve stem. If it has TPMS its not likely that a tire shop will be changing that. But at least have them clean the rim. I bet that solves the issue
Even a slow leak will show up in a dunk test or a soap and water test. If they cannot prove its coming out of the rim, dont buy the BS. Make them clean the rim and use a new valve stem. If it has TPMS its not likely that a tire shop will be changing that. But at least have them clean the rim. I bet that solves the issue
BKBoiss
Gold Member
I worked at Kal Tire in high school till I graduated and fixed many bead leaks. Lots of the time it's about patience in finding them. We would leave the tire in the dunk tank for five minutes or so then come back and watch closely. Sometimes it was only an air bubble the size of a ball point pen tip every 30 seconds or so. One thing we also saw LOTS with the aluminum rims was cracking around the bead area and inside of the rim. The bead edge would wear so thin that it would actually break right off. The inside of the rim as well would get so thin it would crack and sometimes even a large hole would punch out. That being said these were oilfield and logging trucks that drove hundreds of kilometres in mud and sloppy gravel roads so there is non stop abrasive in the rims and as the wheel turns the calliper would push it around the rim.
Soundguy
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Agreed.. the bead area can erode and leak, and yeah.. there is sealer for it.
Beaux Duke
Silver Member
I can't say for sure what is causing your problem but I had a slow leak with a tire/rim on a 99 Yukon. After trying a few of the fixes suggested in previous posts I removed the tire from the rim, scuffed up the inside of the rim and painted it. No more leak. Apparently there was a porous area or a crack that the paint sealed however I never felt safe with that rim on the ground.
I worked at a service station when I was in my late teens. I fixed many leaks by breaking the tire down and cleaning the area where the bead seats. I've never seen a tech bother to clean that area when I had a new set of tires installed.
If you want to attempt it yourself take the rim off and break the bead on one side. Push the tire down to give you access to the wheel and go around it slowly cleaning the accumulated gunk. I like to apply WD-40 to the rim using a small rag. Let it soak a few minutes. Be careful to not get it on the tire or inside the rim. Use soapy water if you prefer but try to keep whatever you use from getting inside the tire.. Then apply a generous amount of elbow grease. Be sure to remove all the WD-40. Once clean and oil free, apply sealer if you want then reinflate the tire fully. Then let the air out and repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the wheel.
You can also try replacing the valve in the stem. The tech sometimes damages them when reinstalling.
I worked at a service station when I was in my late teens. I fixed many leaks by breaking the tire down and cleaning the area where the bead seats. I've never seen a tech bother to clean that area when I had a new set of tires installed.
If you want to attempt it yourself take the rim off and break the bead on one side. Push the tire down to give you access to the wheel and go around it slowly cleaning the accumulated gunk. I like to apply WD-40 to the rim using a small rag. Let it soak a few minutes. Be careful to not get it on the tire or inside the rim. Use soapy water if you prefer but try to keep whatever you use from getting inside the tire.. Then apply a generous amount of elbow grease. Be sure to remove all the WD-40. Once clean and oil free, apply sealer if you want then reinflate the tire fully. Then let the air out and repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the wheel.
You can also try replacing the valve in the stem. The tech sometimes damages them when reinstalling.
Last edited:
LD1
Epic Contributor
I think you should find a new place to get tires. Where I go, its SOP to run a wire wheel around where the bead seats once the old tire is off. Takes them just a few seconds with it still clamped on the changer and rotating.
Also SOP to install new valve stems
Also SOP to install new valve stems
crazyal
Super Member
I mount my own tires and on the older alloy wheels I take a 4 1/2" grinder with a cupped wire brush to the bead area. Before I started doing this they would always have slow leaks. If I change the valve stems I also clean up the area. If that doesn't work then I'll use some beat sealant.
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
Just had mine done. Amazing how much crud was there.
