Oil & Fuel Almost time for my 1st service!

   / Almost time for my 1st service!
  • Thread Starter
#21  
If your tractor didn't come with the plastic ignition switch cover, get one to keep water out of the switch if tractor sits outside at all.

At the moment it is outside all the time, with a canopy though.

I assume the dealer has this plastic cover?

Got a pic you can share?

Thanks,
David
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #22  
Plastic collar goes around ignition switch and then the cover is a press fit on the switches outside edge- keeps water out. Sorry no pics- dealer item.
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #23  
If you are doing your own 50hr service, don't stop with just fluid and filter changes. This is a good time to get into the habit of crawling under the tractor to check bolts, missed zerks, tire pressure and of course the front axle fluid change (I don't recall right now if that is a 50hr or later change).

I note that you were asking about grease. I would hope that you have been greasing regularly during the past 50 hours, especially the loader. Any kind of grease is better than none. I use a moly/lithium type from TSC but I think none of the fittings on a CUT really require anything but the simplest grease. No NASA type tolerances or forces involved. There are a dozen or so zerks on the tractor itself (guesstimate) and at least that many on the loader. I grease everything about every 8 hours of engine time. Again, a few of the zerks require getting on the ground so don't forget those. Also, if you don't have experience with zerks, get used to the feel of grease going in properly (wait for it to come out around the pins on the loader for example). That can be helpful in determining if a zerk is not taking grease. I use one of the oil injector zerk cleaners but others simply remove the zerk and clean it when it malfunctions. Get used to assessing when that happens so you don't accidently run pins dry.

The Kioti service manual is EXCELLENT. Best I've ever seen and aimed at the non professional owner/operator. Great explanations, diagrams and step by step diagnostics and disassembly/assembly instructions. Cost is somewhere in the range of $70-80 at least it was a few years ago. Even at twice that price it is a must have IMO.
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #24  
Any of you guys use a oil extracter like the do on boats??? I use mine on cars trucks and all other motors I have. Works great.....:thumbsup:
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #25  
Any of you guys use a oil extracter like the do on boats??? I use mine on cars trucks and all other motors I have. Works great.....:thumbsup:

I know what you are talking about. On a boat you cannot easily get underneath the engine to drain oil so they are very useful. It is pretty easy to get under a tractor and you can park the tractor whereever is convenient so there is less reason to do that. It just means one more greasy piece of equipment to clean or store.

I don't know if you could even use one to drain the hydraulic fluid though I suppose a longer hose could be fabricated. On my tractor the hydraulic fluid access port is a good four feet from the drain. I would still need to remove the drain plug to clean it anyway as it is magnetized and essentially part of the filtration system. I'd also have to get under the tractor to change the filters too.

The most useful thing I have found is one of the rolling low profile oil drain pans. Mine holds about ten or fifteen gallons so I can do a full fluid change without swapping buckets etc. Pretty simple once you've done it.
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #26  
Any of you guys use a oil extracter like the do on boats??? I use mine on cars trucks and all other motors I have. Works great.....:thumbsup:

the only reason I have never tried an oil extractor is it doesnt seem like it can suck up that last little bit of trash out of the sump, where draining it allows it to all flow out
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #27  
The extractor will suck out everything including the junk that should NOT be in there anyway. They have been using these for boats and construction equipment for the last 50 years. Mine holds 4 gallons and comes with 12 feet of hose. Also its the cleanest way to do it as I can hit the valve and shoot the waste into my recycle jug. As stated the draw back is having to go under the machine to change the filters anyway.
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #28  
How can you be sure you get to bottom of the sumps? The engine oil pan has 2 drain ports (oil pan has a channel built in for the front drive shaft to clear. The hydraulic reservoir/differential has 3 drains (main center with magnet & 2 more. 1 at each axle housing).
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #29  
How can you be sure you get to bottom of the sumps? The engine oil pan has 2 drain ports (oil pan has a channel built in for the front drive shaft to clear. The hydraulic reservoir/differential has 3 drains (main center with magnet & 2 more. 1 at each axle housing).

My guess is that you still need to open all drains and clean off the magnet plugs.

I just think you would get a better clean out by draining from the bottom and letting the high flow wash out any filings and such from the sump as it all drained out

I am no expert but those are my humble thoughts
 
   / Almost time for my 1st service! #30  
I would drain all by gravity, as intended by the manufacturer, after heating the fluids like engine oil to operating temp.
The only time I used a sump siphon was with my B&S 20Kw generator since it sits on a level pad it is hard to get all the oil out. For this app it worked well, as I'm sure it does on boats with inaccessible sumps.
 

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