Am i crazy for wanting wood barn?
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hslogger
Platinum Member
You're not crazy. This pole barn structure is sixty by fortyeight. All the siding and doors are RS full dimension douglas fir or western red cedar. Full dimension means a full one by twelve with full one by four batts. This one went up in stages over a five year period. The only thing I would have done different on this one is have bigger eaves and side end flashing on the tin roof. I do recommend sheathing under the metal roofing and snap lock inside of exposed screws.
whistlepig
Elite Member
Wood barns have a personality that you just can't get from a metal pole barn. They build them from oak around here.
Sebculb
Gold Member
That´s really cool that you have poplar trees and your neighbor has a sawmill. Getting the siding off your farm will save you a boatload of cash, and it adds something spiritual, for lack of a better word, to the building when you get the materials right off your homestead. Good Luck!
Sebculb
Gold Member
Thatｴs really cool that you have poplar trees and your neighbor has a sawmill. Getting the siding off your farm will save you a boatload of cash, and it adds something spiritual, for lack of a better word, to the building when you get the materials right off your homestead. Good Luck!
Gary Fowler
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That is pretty but all those vines/trees up against that wood is going to rot the wood.
Gary Fowler
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I build mine out of wood frame construction just like a house except for the walls. Concrete slab, T111 siding painted to match house trim, insulated and sealed inside with 3/8" plywood, wired with 100 amp electrical service and plenty of 110v outlets every 8 feet, lots of fluorescent lighting that I will eventually replace with LED when they quit working. Light under the lean too with electrical outlet outside also.
One photo is finished and second shows how the walls were done. I put one layer of block up on the shop and two layers on the back addition for my boat and lawnmowers storage. This had a couple of advantages,1) I got higher walls at minimal additional cost,2) my primary reason was for interior hose down to prevent water splashing up on the walls, 3) It pretty much water proofs the outside from runoff from storms getting inside the building in extreme weather conditions,4) It keeps the rainwater from splashing up on the exterior siding and staining it with dirt or mildew/moss growth.
Also when I built mine, wood was cheaper than steel. A quote from a steel building site for the same size structure was $40K and didnt include a slab or construction, just frame, siding and 2" wall and ceiling insulation and no attic storage like I have with the wood frame. I got the entire 30x52 built with a bathroom on one side for $25k complete with all electrical, 6" bat insulation, sealed interior, floored attic space with pull down access ladder and insulated garage door openings with electric openers. It has one 16' wide door and one 10' door plus a man door into the bath room from outside and of course a privacy door inside. Its 30x30 main shop, 12x10 bathroom and 12 x 30 wing on one side with the 12 x20 on the bathroom side.
One photo is finished and second shows how the walls were done. I put one layer of block up on the shop and two layers on the back addition for my boat and lawnmowers storage. This had a couple of advantages,1) I got higher walls at minimal additional cost,2) my primary reason was for interior hose down to prevent water splashing up on the walls, 3) It pretty much water proofs the outside from runoff from storms getting inside the building in extreme weather conditions,4) It keeps the rainwater from splashing up on the exterior siding and staining it with dirt or mildew/moss growth.
Also when I built mine, wood was cheaper than steel. A quote from a steel building site for the same size structure was $40K and didnt include a slab or construction, just frame, siding and 2" wall and ceiling insulation and no attic storage like I have with the wood frame. I got the entire 30x52 built with a bathroom on one side for $25k complete with all electrical, 6" bat insulation, sealed interior, floored attic space with pull down access ladder and insulated garage door openings with electric openers. It has one 16' wide door and one 10' door plus a man door into the bath room from outside and of course a privacy door inside. Its 30x30 main shop, 12x10 bathroom and 12 x 30 wing on one side with the 12 x20 on the bathroom side.
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Carl_NH
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Popalar is very good for siding and takes paint/stain well, but its going to take a lot of wood to cover the sides, somewhere in the range of 3000 bd ft 1" thick depending on your doors/openings planned.
You could do board and batten style over girts assuming you are doing pole barn construction.
Assume you are in no hurry as you would need to cut and stick the wood to dry for a year probably before use.
Airdriver
Member
In 1995 we built a 40X60 pole barn sheathed with poplar board and batten, which has rotted in several places. It appears that it is necessary to thoroughly seal the bottom of the boards with primer and paint. The battens have cupped as have some of the boards, even with spiral nails. The nails have not pulled out, the wood siding while cupping has pulled itself up and over the nail heads.
The siding absorbs a huge amount of paint and repainting depends entirely on local conditions. We have repainted once, and need it again now.
In our location in Northwest Virginia we also get a lot of black mold on the paint, notwithstanding the expensive paint and mold reduction additives used. It can be removed, but it is not a cakewalk.
I now believe our most cost effective barn would be a wooden pole barn with metal sheathing, insulation as needed. Our stalls all need to be lined with full dimension oak, due to the nutty horses that live here.
The siding absorbs a huge amount of paint and repainting depends entirely on local conditions. We have repainted once, and need it again now.
In our location in Northwest Virginia we also get a lot of black mold on the paint, notwithstanding the expensive paint and mold reduction additives used. It can be removed, but it is not a cakewalk.
I now believe our most cost effective barn would be a wooden pole barn with metal sheathing, insulation as needed. Our stalls all need to be lined with full dimension oak, due to the nutty horses that live here.