Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this?

[4570Man]

Why should the front drive shaft be removed? You'd have to pull it back apart to install it. The front axel drive shaft is longer and those splines engage before the other splined shaft. The front axel shaft wasn't any trouble to get lined up.

 

[Adiredneck]

Why should the front drive shaft be removed? You'd have to pull it back apart to install it. The front axel drive shaft is longer and those splines engage before the other splined shaft. The front axel shaft wasn't any trouble to get lined up.

Believe me, I was just in this same situaton 4 months ago. Here is my theory on what is happening.

The front driveshaft is normally in the center of the sheetmetal dust shroud. If you left this all intact before you split the machine, the outer driveshaft has dropped slightly in the shroud. When you try to join the two halves back together, the inner driveshaft is likely hitting the outside of the coupling and stopping you.

It will take you less than 15 minutes to remove the driveshaft shroud and outer driveshaft. The shroud comes off with two small screws and a couple of roll pins need to be punched out to get the driveshaft couplings out. Worst case scenario, I am wrong and you can take the opportunity to clean the parts and re-grease all of the splines.

 

[4570Man]

So I need to remove the external front drive shaft? There's also a front drive shaft inside the housing. That's the seal I'm changing.

 

[Adiredneck]

So I need to remove the external front drive shaft? There's also a front drive shaft inside the housing. That's the seal I'm changing.

Yes. It will make this much easier. It will take you longer to find the tools than to remove the driveshaft.

 

[MHarryE]

Adiredneck is right. Talked to the mechanic who reassembled my tractor today and he said the person to whom I referred must be trying to reassemble without having removed the front drive shaft. He said on mine it was easy to slide the halves together aligning the clutch splines, then install the front drive shaft one the halves are together.

 

[4570Man]

I got the half's back together. Hopefully I'll have a working tractor in a few days.

 

[Oldpath05]

I was hoping for a picture of your tractor apart, someday my L3400 will need the clutch replaced, hoping I don't have to remove the front drive shaft to do it. The dealer wants 3k for the job and at 900 hrs. Im not sure how long the clutch is suppose to last, it's acting up now.

 

[4570Man]

Here's the only picture I have of the front half.

 

[Adiredneck]

I got the half's back together. Hopefully I'll have a working tractor in a few days.

View attachment 483149

Awesome job! Think of the $$$$ you saved..

 

[4570Man]

Awesome job! Think of the $$$$ you saved..

Probably around 3 grand. Well worth the effort IMO.

 

[Oldpath05]

Good pics, hope you get it going soon with no extra bolts left over..........

 

[4570Man]

I put the seat back on ( which wasn't necessary to remove ). After dinner I hope to get the dash and fuel tank back on. For anyone in the same situation the fuel tank needs to go back on first. It's much more difficult to get back on with the dash on. Disclaimer. I haven't actually installed either one, but I removed the tank first.

 

[Avery11]

Bookmarking this. Very good tips and write-up. Thank you.

 

[4570Man]

I got it back together! I started it up and drove it back and fourth in the shop. I've never been more excited to hear that tractor start up. Everything worked like it was supposed to. Here's a tip. The steering U-joint ( actually the splined shaft slid together) MUST be put back together before the dash is bolted down. Don't ask how I found out. Here's the parts that'll probably never find a place. I've still got to put the plastic cover back on the dash, install the rubber floor mat back on, put the hood and side panels on, and bolt on the loader mounts. That seems pretty minor at this point.

 

[Adiredneck]

Good job!

 

[Adiredneck]

When I split my 5240, I remember one side of the tank support frame had two extra bolts. Those extra bolts look about right for that. Mine were down low. Or they could go to the tank bracket that bolts dow to the cylinder
head. Just a thought.

 

[4570Man]

After, I got the tractor back together it's much more difficult to steer than before. The hydraulic fluid level is good. Any ideas what is causing this?

 

[Adiredneck]

After, I got the tractor back together it's much more difficult to steer than before. The hydraulic fluid level is good. Any ideas what is causing this?

How did the suction hose for the hydraulic pump look? It's a common problem on these tractors. I have replaced the hose on both of mine. It is quite possible that it had a hairline crack before you split the machine and it opened up when you wiggled the suction hose around when you attached it to the pump.

Is your loader back on yet? If so, does it act normal? When my suction hose cracked on the 5240, the loader seemed unaffected, but steering was hard. I could not see the defect on mine unless I crawled under the machine.

 

[dfkrug]

I spent over an hour trying to get it together. I backed at apart, turned the shaft, and
pushed it back together. After an hour I gave up.

Yeah, Adiredneck is on the right path.

Lining up the splines can be a pain. I try to turn the engine or trans with a wrench on the pulley, as he did, or
by turning the wheels with trans (gear) or MFWD engaged. It is a challenge with double clutch replacement too,
as the drive shaft has to align with 2 splined holes.

I like how Deere has an access port in the side of the case on some tractors that lets you stick your
hand inside to help align the splined shafts.

BTW, a leaky shaft oil seal also killed my Kubota B21 years ago, the subject of the rebuild thread I did.

 

[4570Man]

The loader isn't back on yet. Is the suction hose the one removed in this picture?