Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this?

   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this? #31  
Confirmed mine is transmission oil. Engine oil level is right where it has been since I last changed oil. Transmission oil level is low.
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this?
  • Thread Starter
#32  
The case where its leaking should be clean. If it indeed looks like diesel motor oil and is hydraulic oil you might have a problem.
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this? #33  
1474778631048.jpg1474778673185.jpg

Here is my L5740 after 2 weeks at the dealer. Leak resulted from seal failure on the front wheel drive output (lower shaft in the detail pic). Not that difficult to replace one getting to this point but a lot of man hours getting to this point.

How quickly mine failed - never an oil spot on the machine shed floor until week of failure. Checked oil level at last fuel fill and was at the full mark. When leak discovered it took a 2.5 gallon jug to get it between full and low for loading.
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this?
  • Thread Starter
#34  
How do you get the drive shaft out of the machine?

image-2867429997.jpg
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this? #35  
How do you get the drive shaft out of the machine?

View attachment 482625
Once down to this point the front drive shaft sequence is external snap ring, oil seal, collar, then bearing. The WSM says the drive shaft needs to be removed from the rear side. In my case, only the seal needs replacement so its remove the snap ring and seal. Dealer mechanic had it to this point and was waiting on the new seal.
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this?
  • Thread Starter
#36  
I got the seal changed without removing the shaft. I was unable to get the halfs back together because I couldn't get the splined shafts to line up. Any tips in accomplishing that?
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this? #37  
I got the seal changed without removing the shaft. I was unable to get the halfs back together because I couldn't get the splined shafts to line up. Any tips in accomplishing that?
I really have no idea but can you turn the shaft my hand
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this?
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I spent over an hour trying to get it together. I backed at apart, turned the shaft, and pushed it back together. After an hour I gave up.
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this? #39  
I got the seal changed without removing the shaft. I was unable to get the halfs back together because I couldn't get the splined shafts to line up. Any tips in accomplishing that?

Get some help. Put a man with a breaker bar and socket on the bolt in front of the fan pulley and turn while someone else is guiding the two halves back together. You only need to work it back & forth a little bit and they will come together.
 
   / Am I going to have to split my tractor to fix this? #40  
The WSM doesn't give any hint of how to line up the splines. It only states things like, "When reassembling coat the halves with sealant xxx and torque bolts to guy. However you should only need to line the clutch and engine output splines as you put it in place as you should have the front drive shaft removed. That does mean need to rotate the engine a bit as you slide it together. I got a call today my tractor is ready for pickup tomorrow so I will ask the mechanic who did mine. That is his second seal replacement in 2 weeks as I had to wait until he finished a similar, but lower horsepower model, before he could do mine. Dealer service manager said he wouldn't lie to me - replacing that seal is not unusual so the mechanic they have working on them gets a lot of practice.
 

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