am i legal?

[Bob_Skurka]

i apreciate your concern on this matter but i dont apreciate you implying that my methods are "unsafe"

You are reading way too much into what I wrote.

However I did write that you may not be legal. There is a difference between safe and legal. You can be safe and not be legal. It matters not that you have done something for 20 years or that you are the go to guy for towing. What matters it what the DOT inspectors say when you get pulled over. All I've done is point out that you need to satisfy the DOT requirements. Perhaps you have been lucky so far, there is no reason to assume that luck will continue.

If you choose not to follow the laws, that is your choice, but it might end up with you getting a fine. That is what I have consistently stated and you apparently misunderstood.

 

[RPK]

This reply will end two of the threads I started on this subject. I found out that (in CT) the state police truck squad will meet with you and your rig and give you a courtesy inspection during their regular work hours. So, I set up an inspection with them. I had my L3130 w/BH and loader (tractor has loaded rear tires) tied down on my new 20' 10,000 lb trailer attached to my 2500HD Duramax pickup.

They checked my 4 point tie downs. I used straps. They put a scale under every wheel (8) and did three weight tests with the tractor in different locations on the trailer in an attempt to find the best tongue weight. My total rig weighed in at 17,250 lbs.

The best position was with my bucket curled and the tractor forward on the trailer. The weight of the tractor and trailer in that position was 8800 lbs. It was great learning experience. Now I feel more confident hitting the road with my set-up. Once I get a better feel for the tie downs I will switch to chains and binders. One trooper said he preferred the straps because the straps may stretch a little during use but a chain is either tight or loose. The straps are legal and I can always use them for other trailering situations.

RPK

 

[DirtHauler]

I don't have a back hoe, but I know from hauling mini excavators with my Pete that you should throw a chain over the back hoe bucket and secure it to the trailer (booms can swing from side to side).
Here's a pic of about 4,000 lbs. on a 7,000 lb. trailer secured with two chains, one front and one back, never a problem. (this should light a fire!)

 

[Builder]

This reply will end two of the threads I started on this subject. I found out that (in CT) the state police truck squad will meet with you and your rig and give you a courtesy inspection during their regular work hours. So, I set up an inspection with them. I had my L3130 w/BH and loader (tractor has loaded rear tires) tied down on my new 20' 10,000 lb trailer attached to my 2500HD Duramax pickup.

They checked my 4 point tie downs. I used straps. They put a scale under every wheel (8) and did three weight tests with the tractor in different locations on the trailer in an attempt to find the best tongue weight. My total rig weighed in at 17,250 lbs.

The best position was with my bucket curled and the tractor forward on the trailer. The weight of the tractor and trailer in that position was 8800 lbs. It was great learning experience. Now I feel more confident hitting the road with my set-up. Once I get a better feel for the tie downs I will switch to chains and binders. One trooper said he preferred the straps because the straps may stretch a little during use but a chain is either tight or loose. The straps are legal and I can always use them for other trailering situations.

RPK

Amazing.....straps are discouraged here in PA in favor of chains.

 

[john_bud]

Yeah..... Straps..... uh.....


Here's my opinion. I bought a set of 3" very heavy duty 25' straps with nice large well built ratchets. After hauling my tractor up north and back down, I noticed that the front strap was cut about 10-15% of the way across from a slight sharp edge. I don't know how the road police deal with cut straps, but I used the Coast Guard method and said any defect makes it defective and bought grade 70 chains and ratchet binders. Those chains and binders have tens of thousands of miles on them and aside from losing that new chain luster, are just fine. The straps are used to hold down my Kawasaki Mule on it's trailer.

At a guess, straps may need to be replaced every year or two. Depending on cut damage, sun damage (UV embrittlement in nylon) etc. While straps are 1/3 the cost, you need to buy them much more often and thus will be long term more money.


Like I said, that my OPINION.

Good luck with your load!
jb



Dirthauler. I think you may want to invest in some wheel chocks to help stabilize the load. They are cheap to buy and even cheaper to build. Would help to keep your load where it has the best balance. A weight distributing hitch would make it sit more level and pull nicer.

I DON'T think you are hazard to humanity with that rig. Enjoy the road and keep the shiny side up!

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Here's a pic of about 4,000 lbs. on a 7,000 lb. trailer secured with two chains, one front and one back, never a problem.

Just curious, but do you have the tiller on the front of the trailed strapped or chained down or is it just held in place with the bucket? State DOT laws vary, but it is likely that you must have that implement secured separately with a strap or chain. Again, just because you have never had a problem, doesn't mean it is in compliance with the laws. You may want to check your state laws regarding securing individual implements.

One trooper said he preferred the straps because the straps may stretch a little during use but a chain is either tight or loose. The straps are legal and I can always use them for other trailering situations.

RPK

From the safety standpoint when using chains, it is typically recommended that you secure the load and tighten the binders, then drive about a mile and re-tighten the binders. I'd suspect that the state trooper has encountered many loads where the chains were not properly re-tightened.

 

[DirtHauler]

I generaly don't haul an extra implement with me but on this perticular day I had two different jobs to do within 1/2 mile of each other, mowing and then some dirt work and it was only a 22 mile round trip. The mower (was the box blade at first) is squeezed between the front and the bucket is resting on the top link hitch. If ti was any farther distance then I would have a pair of nylon straps to tie it down.
As far as an equalizer hitch, it would void this excuse; "see honey, this a why I need to buy a new bigger truck"!
Oh by the way, I have a chest type tool box in the bed plus there's 4 - 5 gallon jugs of diesel setting back at the tail gate and the extra implement is why she's squatting a little.

 

[workinallthetime]

I generaly don't haul an extra implement with me but on this perticular day I had two different jobs to do within 1/2 mile of each other, mowing and then some dirt work and it was only a 22 mile round trip. The mower (was the box blade at first) is squeezed between the front and the bucket is resting on the top link hitch. If ti was any farther distance then I would have a pair of nylon straps to tie it down.
As far as an equalizer hitch, it would void this excuse; "see honey, this a why I need to buy a new bigger truck"!
Oh by the way, I have a chest type tool box in the bed plus there's 4 - 5 gallon jugs of diesel setting back at the tail gate and the extra implement is why she's squatting a little.

hey dirt
can you take some pictures of the jacks on the back of your set up if thats what those are? i need to fab some up for mine, tired of watching the truck go to the moon when i unload.
ohh and for the record i also use 2 chains to hold down my tractor DOT or not its never moved an inch.
i figured out the ratchit binders over the bast 4 or 5 hook ups, seems in my situation having the chain as tight as possible before the binders go on works the best just like the lever style. I still like the lever style over the ratchit due to time it takes to complete the same task. I am in a hurry, friday i did 3 diferent job sites so time is important to me.
ive yet to find a trooper to talk to about the law, but you guys got to remember im in oklahoma we dont even have vehicle inspections and are big on farming so i dont think they require more than gov. DOT.
ive yet to see a city,county, power company, cable company, independent guy or anyone else with a chain around their hoe. doesnt mean they are right or wrong just always aware of my surroundings.

happy diggin

 

[NoMo]

Best thing is to research the Oklahoma Motor Vehicle Laws.

The sections (Chapter 14) on securing the load seem rather vague to me. But it's interesting to note the definitions of "trailer" and "semitrailer" as well as the differences between a "truck" and a "vehicle" in Chapter 1.

Since you are operating as a commercial entity, it's doubtful that any of the farm exemptions would apply.

 

[DirtHauler]

I too got tired of my truck's rear-end almost off the ground when loading and unloading, I carried a ratchet type jack stand around for awhile and would just put under the rear of the trailer each time --- it works but in soft ground it tens to drive the jack stand into the ground. Now I could have ordered this trailer from the factory with "stabalizer legs" for an additional $250.00 +!

Last winter I decided to fab up my own, a trip to the metal store $22.00 spent there and about 2 1/2 hours of my time, I had adjustable drop legs!

I'll take some pics tomarrow and post (raining here today!)